SB 

4-2.6 



■ o 



-.0 




Photo: A. R. Goodwin, Kiddcrviinstcr. 

NARCISSUS CASTILE. 
(One of the Rev, G. H. Eiiglehearl's seedlings.) 



PICTORIAL 
PRACTICAL BULB GROWINa 



A CONCISE GUIDE 

TO THE CULTURE OF ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT BULBOUS, 
TUBEROUS, AND ALLIED PLANTS 



WALTER P^'WEIGHT 

Horticultural Siiperintcndeiit under the Kent Comity Council 

AND 

HORACE J. WRIGHT 

Member of the Fruit Co^nmittee of the Royal Horticultural Society ; 
Honorary Secretary of the National Sweet Pea Society^ etc. 



WITH MANY PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS 



CASSELL AND COMPANY, Limited 

LONDON, PARIS, NEW. YOBK MELBOURNE 
MCMIII 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 




Edited by WALTER P. WRIGHT. 

Casscll's Dictionary of Practical 
Gardening. 

The Gardener. 



Works by WALTER P. WRIGHT. 

Pictorial Practical Gardening. 

Pictorial Practical Fruit Growing. 

Pictorial Greenhouse Management. 

Pictorial Practical Vegetable Growing. 

Pictorial Practical Rose Growing. 

y CAS^BLL AND Cd»AFY, LIMITED, London; Parii 
* * New ^o¥k- Sc ^lelhourne. 



Publ. 



PREFACE. 



The term " bulb " in connection with this book is given a wide 
interpretation. 

Technically, although a Hyacinth is a bulb, a Begonia is not. 

We have, however, swept away, for practical purposes, dis- 
tinctions which the great flower growing public knows nothing 
about, and included all the favourite flowers which a broad 
view associates with bulbs. 

Conversely, we have left out some minor plants which really 
are bulbs, as not deserving space in a small handbook. Such 
plants will be found described in " Cassell's Dictionary of 
Practical Gardening." 

The present work is uniform with the other volumes of the 
Pictorial Practical series, and aims at giving all the salient 
points in concise form, with explanatory illustrations. 

Walter P. Weight. 
Horace J. Wright. 



Se2?temher, 1903. 



CONTENTS. 



Cn AFTER 
I. 

ir. 
nr. 

IV. 

Y. 

YI. 

YII. 
YIIT. 



IX. 
X. 

XI. 

XIT. 
XIII. 
XIV. 

XV. 
XVI. 

XVII. 

xviir. 

XIX. 
XX. 
XXI. 
XXII. 
XXIII. 
XXIV. 

XXV. 
XXVI. 



— BuLi3S IN Beds 

and boiiders 
—Bulbs in Pots 
—Bulbs i] 

Glasses 
-Bulbs in Yases 

AND Bowls 
—Bulbs in Win 

DOW Boxes 
— Bulbs in thi 

Woodland 
— Bulbs in Grass 
— Achimenes, Ac 
ONITES, Anom 
atheca . 
— Alliums . . 
— Alstromeiuas 
— Amaryllises 
, — Anemones . 
— Arum Lilies 
— Babianas 
— Begonias 

— Bell AD ON 
Lilies , 

— Caladiums 

— Calochorti 
— Cannas . 

— Chionodoxa 

— colchicim-' 

— Crinums 
,— Crocuses 
— Cyclamens 

— DaI I ODILS 

Dahlias . 



7— 13 
14— 26 

27— 29 

30— 31 

32— 35 

36— 38 
39— 41 



42 

42— 44 

44— 4 5 

45— 48 
48— 49 

50 
51 
57 



50^ 
51- 



59 
01 
03 
04 
65 
66 
67 
68 

09— 85 
80—100 



58- 
00- 
01- 



05 
00 



CHAPTER 

xxYir.- 

XXVIIL- 
XXIX. 
XXX.- 
XXXL- 
XXXIL 
XXXIIL- 

XXXI Y. 
XXXY. 
XXXYI. 
XXXVII. 

xxxviir. 

XXXIX. 
XL. 
XLI. 
XLIL 
XLIII. 
XLIY. 

XLY. 

XLYI. 
XLVII. 
XLYIII. 
XLIX. 
L. 
LI. 
LII. 
LIII. 
LTV. 

Addenda 
In dex 



— E RYTHRON I U M ; 
— EUCHARISES . 

— Freesias . . 
— Fritillarias 
—Gladioli 
—Gloxinias . 
— Hemerocal- 
lises . . 
—Hep a lie as . 
— Hyacinths . 
— Irises . . 

— IXIAS . . . 

— Lachenalias 
— Leucojums . 

— LiLIUMS . . 

— Montbretias 
— Muscaris 

— Nerines . 
— Ornithoga- 

LUMS 

— Ra n u n cu- 

LUSES . . 
— SCILLAS . . 

— Snowdroi s . 
— Sparaxis . . 

— TiGRIDIAS 

— Tkiteleias . 
— Tritonias . 

— TllOPEOLUMS. 
— TuiiEROSES , 

— Tulips 



PAGE 

5 101 
101—102 

103- 104 

104— 105 
100—113 
114 - 110 

117 

117 
118—121 
121—126 

127 
127—129 

129 
130—133 

133— 134 

134— 135 

135— 136 

130—137 

137_138 

138— 139 

139— 140 
140 

140 — 141 
141 
141 
142 
143 

143—140 

147—148 
149-152 



Pictorial Peactical Bulb 
Growing. 



chapter I —Bulbs in Beds ana Borders. 

T is in this particular direction that we may 
see the most marked growth in the popularity 
of bulbs during the past few years, but there 
has been a distinct deviation from the very 
formal lines of a decade ago, when one kind 
only was permissible in each bed. Xow we 
see that in the vast majority of cases two kinds 
are employed, and in many instances there are 
three. One is bound to appreciate the change 
in this direction, because the creation of a 
greater variety must add to the interest of the 
garden as well from the visitor's as the owner's point of view. 

Hundreds of thousands, and probably millions, of Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Crocuses, Daffodils, and other bulbs are utilised in the 
gardens of this country every season, and it is safe to say that there 
is not another class of plants which, grown in such immense numbers, 
brings so few disappointments to its cultivators. This is accounted 
for by the great ease with which they may be grown, and by the 
endeavours made by growers to fulfil all their requirements in 
regard to soil, manure, and moisture. That there are failures every 
year it were useless to deny, but the majority of these may be said to 
be due rather to misfortune than to any fault on the part of the 
cultivator. A bed of Tulips, or of Dafiodils, may and does fail, 
and the gardener is blamed for some supposed error in management, 
whereas the true cause can almost invariably be traced to some 
inherent fault in the bulbs over which it is absolutely certain the 
British grower could not possibly have control, as the trouble is 
traceable to the fields of Holland, where the bulbs were brought 
forward to supposed flowering size before they were offered to 
buyers at home. 

It should be thoroughly understood by everyone who has bulbs in 
his garden that the flower is actually formed for him by the propaga- 




8 PICTOBIAL PRACTICAL BVLB GBOWIXG. 




PICTORIAL TRACTICE. —PLAIN- 
FIG. 1.— THE PROPER DEPTH 

A, Anemone. 

B, Winter Aconite. 

C, German Iris. 

D, Crocus, 

E, Snowdrop. 

F, Ranunculus. 

G, Ej)glish and Spanish Irises. 



DEPTHS OF FLAXTIXa BULBS. 



9 




HINTS IX FEW WORDS. 
TO PLANT BULBS. 

H, Gladiolus. 

I, Tulip. 

J, Polyanthus Xarcissus. 

K. Hyacinth. 

L, Belladonna Lily 

31, Lilium. 

X, Babiana. 



10 VIGTOUTAL PBACTIGAL BULB GBOWlNQ. 



tors, upon whose labours must depend success. They put the 
spike into the bulb by their good culture, and it remains for us to 
bring that spike to perfection, and it is absolutely certain that if 
the flower is not already in the bulb it is beyond the power of the 
most skilful grower to bring it out. True, some men will produce 
finer results than others with the same material, but this is precisely 
similar with all kinds of plants. Knowing that the bloom is 
provided before it reaches us should emphasise to the purchaser 
the necessity for procuring only the very best, as, though such may 
entail a trifle more in first cost, they are infinitely the cheaper 
eventually, because they have the stored power to develop superb 
flowers, and the skill of the British gardener is more than equal 
to the task of making the bulb brino' them forth. To go and 
secure bulbs simply because the price is low, and without paying 
the slightest regard to their quality, is to court disaster, and to lay 
up trouble for the grower because he has failed to accomplish an 
impossibility. 

That errors are made it would be idle to dispute, but they 
are comparatively rare, and may usually be described as mistakes 
due to carelessness rather than to lack of knowledge of the plants' 
requirements. When the veriest tyro sets out to grow bulbs it is 
probable that he will make some mistakes in their management, just 
as he w^ould do were he growing any other plants ; but it does not take 
the man of average common sense long to realise in what direction 
he has strayed from the proper path, with the result that perhaps his 
first failure, as far as cultural matters are concerned, is also his last. 

• Let us consider as briefly as may be what are the chief essentials 
to success in the cultivation of bulbs in beds and borders in the 
open ground. Two things are of outstanding importance : 1, the 
preparation of the ground ; and 2, the time of planting. In regard 
to the former, it is frequently said that under no circumstances 
nuist manure be added to the soil, but to this ought to be added 
the qualification, " in such a manner as to come into actual contact 
with the bulbs." One has not to grow Daffodils many years before 
the fact is forced upon one that they thrive better, if the soil 
is poor, when a dressing of natural manure or superphosphate 
(which is preferred by many experts) has been w^orked in. The 
main item to keep in view in applying manure is that it is with 
the second, and not with the first spit. If in the top soil, the 
bulbs will be in constant contact with it, and the result will be 
splitting and very few flowers. 

In garden culture, however, it is very often the case that the 
soil contains enough food for the sustenance of the plants. 
Successions of flowers are arranged for, and the bulbs are usually 
planted in the beds which had as their summer occupants Dahlias 
and other ])lants in whose successful growth a fair amount of 
manure is re( paired, for they are gross feeding, though not to 
such a degree as to leave the mould in a thoroughly impoverished 
state. The result is that ahnost or quite enough food remains to 




FIG. 2.-A BED OF ANEMONES. 




FIG. 3.-A BED OF HYACINTHS, DAISIES, AND 
PRIMROSES. 



12 



PICTORIAL PBACTICAL BULB GBOWING. 



bring magnlBcent spikes of Hyacintlis to delight us in the spring. 
It Tvill then suffice to double dig the ground as soon as the 
summer plants have been removed, as this will ensure what food 
there is in tlie soil being distributed equally throughout the 
bed, and thus aid in providing an even display of flowers. A 
dressing of superphosphate at the rate of 2 oz. per square yard 
may be given. 

In bulb planting, consideration must be had for the kind of plant 
with which we are dealing, as some require different soil and positions 
from others. For example. Liliums would fail or, at best, only 
produce poor spikes in a situation that would be regarded as an 
ideal one for the sun loving Tulip or Daffodil. When it is possible, 
the Liliums ought to be given a spot where the base of the 
plants will be beneath the shade of other things, such, for instance, 
as amidst the Ehododendrons, as their roots will then always 
be in the cool, beyond the burning influence of the rays of the 
sun. Another reason why they api:)reciate this position is because 
many of them are peat lovers, similarly to the plants amidst which 
they are growing, though, like them again, they may be successfully 
cultivated in well-drained fibrous loam. It is in recognising such 
apparently sn:iall points as this that the secret of the striking success 
of many of our best bulb and plant growers may be said to lie. 

Planting in borders is, in several cases, similar to planting 
in beds, but it may, and often does, differ materially therefrom. 
When the space to be occupied has been utilised as a ribbon border 
with plants of the same types as are grown in beds, then the 
preparations will be precisely the same, as in both cases the soil will 
have l';ad manure worked into it in the previous spring. When, 
however, the bulbs are to be planted in clumps between large stools of 
herbaceous and other plants, it may be necessary to ndopt different 
tactics in . order to ensure the greatest success. Here, again, it may 
be said that the soil is usually plenty rich enough for bulbs, but 
should this not be the case it will nut be a matter of any difficulty 
to excavate some top soil, and with the second spit incorporate 
as much thoroughly decomposed manure as is deemed desirable. 
Or if this does not commend itself to the cultivator, either from 
lack of manure or other cause, remove a good amount of the 
ordinary soil and occupy its place with some old potting mould, this 
always being suitable for bulbs. Of all the different kinds that 
are commonly grown in our gardens, Datiodils like the richest soil. 
Anemones give beautiful effects (see p. 13) with a little yard manure. 

During comparatively recent years an endeavour has been made 
to persuade the inexperienced that bulbs which are planted as late 
a.s, or even later than, Christmas will flower as satisfactorily as those 
that are put in position at the end of October or in November. 
This is not correct, and in the case of Daffodils there is a distinct 
loss of vigour when the planting is postponed later than October, 
and a marked gain in the quality of the blooms if the bulbs 
can be put into their places in August. 



14 



FIG TORI AL FRAG TIC AL BULB GROWIXG. 



Chapter IL- Bulbs in Pots. 

KoTWiTHST.^>'DiXG the unquestioned utility of bulbs for the 
adornment of the flower garden in the s^jdng, it is largely to their 
value for pot culture that they owe Ibeir popularity at the 
pre.^ent time. In this phase of bulb groNving they are brought 
within the reach of everyone who cares to try his hand, for 
a greenhouse is not essential, and they may be grandly grown by 
anyone with a dark cupboard or a dark cellar. When they have 
been brought to perfection, or as near thereto as the means at 
command will allow', they are amongst the most useful subjects for 
room decoration, as, despite the somewhat stiff appearance of 
Hj^acinths, they last well, smell sweetly, and when associated with 
other things produce a beautiful effect in the early months of the year, 
when flowers are none too plentiful, and those that can be had are 
usually rather expensive of production. 

Preparation of the Compost.— Though bulbs will grov\^ and 
flow^er in almost any soil through which water can pass Avith 
reasonable freedom, it is only cultivators wdio go to some little 
trouble in this direction that secure the best results. There is no 
need to })rocure a rich or an elaborate mixture— indeed, one containing 
fresh manure is more likely than not to lead to trouble by causing 
tlie growths to split up and produce nothing better than a lot of small, 
useless stalks that no amount of flattery can call si^ikes. The 
employment of much chemical manure should also be regarded as 
taboo, for the inclusion of too much will inevitably spell failure. 
If it is used at all, let it be in very small quantities : but a great 
many successful growers refrain from it altogether, and do what 
feeding may be desirable when the plant is throwing up its spike. 
The compost that has been found to answer best over a protracted 
series of experiments is the very simple one of 3 parts of sound 
loam, 1 part of thoroughly decomposed leaf mould, an 8-inch potful of 
soot to every bushel of soil, and sufficient coarse sand to ensure 
the whole allowing water to pass freely through it. 

It is very desirable, though not absolutely essential to success, 
that the compost be mixed some time prior to its use, as in this 
case the several ingredients appear to become more thoroughly 
incorporated than when the utilisation follows immediately upon 
the mixing. The actual state of the compost at the time of potting 
has a material effect upon the ultimate results. If it be very dry, and 
the precaution is not taken of carefully moistening it before use, it 
is a difficult matter to bring it into a proper state afterwards ; 



POTS FOR BULBS. 



15 



while if it be sodden, the trouble, though in another direction, is 
equally great, the bulbs decline to send their roots into a soil that 
is sour through excessive wet. Have it in what gardeners call an 
even condition of moisture, as not only will this be better for the bulbs, 
but the potting will prove much easier to do. If dr}^, it must be 
watered ; and if wet, let it be dried a little before the work is started. 

Suitable Pots, — Hand in hand with the preparation of the 
soil runs the selecting of the pots. New ones are sometimes used for 
the purpose, but neither for bulbs nor any other plants are they 
good unless they have previously been thoroughly soaked, as when 
perfectly new they quickly absorb water from the soil, and leave it 
dry when the cultivator expects that it is pleasantly moist. When 
old pots are employed they should be weil washed prior to use, not 
because repotting is likely to be done, but to remove lurking insects, 
as well as to create as good an appearance as possible. The yjrovision 
for drainage is an important item in the preparatory operations, and 
it must not be scanty on the one hand or over abundant on the 
other. The ordinary system of placing one large piece of crock 
hollow side downwards, then other smaller pieces round it, with still 
smaller above these, and covering the whole by some of the rougher 
portions of the compost or a layer of coarse moss, cannot be beaten 
if it is properly carried out. The object of the upper surfacing is to 
prevent the fine particles of soil washing down into the drainage, 
and thus choking it to such a degree as to arrest the water in its 
downward progress and leave the roots in soured soil, in which they 
are apt to decay in a manner that bodes ill for the results of our bulb 
display in the spring. 

Sizes of Pots.—Eepeated experiments have forced us to the 
conclusion that in the majority of cases the pots employed are quite- 
one size, and frequently two sizes, too large. For ail Hyacinths, 
except those producing very big bulbs, like La Franchise, Grand 
Maitre, and Grandeur a Merveille, what is known as a 54 pot, that 
is to say a pot 4 inches in diameter at the top, is quite large enough 
for all general purposes, and with judicious feeding spikes sufficiently 
fine for exhibition can be secured. The use of 6-inch pots allows 
the roots too much room at the outset, and of course the pots 
occupy a great deal more space, which is a good enough reason for 
their avoidance by amateurs, even if there w^ere no other. This size 
is admirable when three bulbs of Hyacinths are put in one pot, or 
three Narcissi, five Tulips, or five Eoman Hyacinths. (For methods 
of potting Narcissi in threes, see Fig. 4, p. 19. The instructions 
apply to other Narcissi and Tulips.) The objection held by many 
people to the use of small pots is that the limited amount of soil 
cannot possibly provide sufficient food for the plants. This is, 
however, an easily surmounted difficulty when the highest degree of 
activity is attained to, for then feeding with suitable foods may 
be commenced in real earnest, and the benefit to the plants will be 
infinitely greater than when rich food was provided at the outset. 

Potting.— Simple as this operation undoubtedly is to those of 



16 PICTORIAL PEAGTIGAL BULB GROWING, 



experience, it frequently proves a stumbling block to the tyro, who is 
either too ligl^t or too heavy handed in carrying out the work. The 
correct degree of firmness to which the soil should be carried is not 
easy to explain, indeed it can only be thoroughly realised by constant 
practice ; but the observant grower soon grasps what is wrong with 
his plants, and a little thought will usually lead him to the true 
reason of the trouble. The first thing is to have a goodly number of 
pots of one or more sizes, according to requirements, prepared for use, 
all crocks being carefully placed in position ; then will commence 
the actual operation. Sufficient soil should be placed loosely in the 
pot to reach within about inches of the edge of the rim, then lift 
and rap sharply on the potting bench, and the soil will generally be 
found to go down far enough to allow of the bulb being placed on the 
surface or in a very slight depression, and leave its upper extremity 
level with the soil when the work is completed. Should this not prove 
to be the case, less mould must be put in to start with, and when once 
the proper amount has been ascertained the progress will be rapid 
and the work well done. (For potting Hyacinths, see Fig. 3b, p. 17.) 

Some successful cultivators pursue a different system with equally 
satisfactory results. They put in a little soil at a time, making it 
firm as they proceed, until the correct amount is in the pot ; but 
in this there is an ever present liability of getting the mass too 
solid, vrhich will never occur if the previously recomm^ended method 
is adopted. It is necessary that the rapping upon the bench be 
very sharp, or the soil will not settle down properly. 

If the soil is in a properly moist state at the time of potting, it 
will not be necessary to apply any water either then or for a consider- 
able time afterwards ; but there must be no doubt in the matter, 
and if dryness is suspected let the soil be well moistened through to 
the drainage before the pots are plunged. Unless this is done, the 
soil will become like dust in the plunging material, and the roots 
of the bulbs will not w^ork in it in anything like a satisfactory 
manner. This involves a loss of valuable time, and the flowering 
season is much retarded and often so prejudiced that handsome 
spikes are never developed. Assuming that everything possible 
has been done to ensure a good start, the next phase of bulb culture 
in pots may be considered. 

Plunging',--At the first glance novices are sometimes unable to 
see the utility of this operation, but its desirability can never be 
called into question by those who have seen the results of its 
neglect. So important is it that it may justifiably be termed one 
of the chief essentials to success. To make its importance more 
readily appreciated by the uninitiated, the objects of plunging may 
be briefly set forth. There are three things for which we aim, and 
they are of equal imi)ortance : 1, the encouragement of root action ; 2, 
the discouragement of top growth until such time as there are 
plenty of roots to su]>ply it with food ; and 3, the reduction of 
evaporation to a minimum, so that it will not be necessary to apply 
water until the pots are ready to be removed from the plunging 



18 PIOTOBIAL PBAOTIGAL BtJLB GBOWIlTG. 



tnaterial to the liglit for the development of the flower. The absence 
of light prevents the excitement that goes to the swelling of the 
spike, and the bulb has nothing else and nothing better to do than to 
emit abundance of sound roots with which to imbibe food for the 
benefit of the plant at a later date. The disadvantage of having 
to give water in the very early stages lies in the danger of the soil 
becoming sour, simply because there are no roots actively working in 
it^ Of course, it is better to apply water than to allow the compost 
to remain perfectly dry for any length of time, but it is desirable 
to avoid it, if possible, by the means indicated. 

Many growers of bulbs have to neglect the plunging entirely, 
simply because they have no available place. Dwellers in towns 
suffer most in this direction, but they need not despair of being 
able to produce fine Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, or other bulbous 
flowers, provided they have a dark cellar or cupboard whose tem- 
perature is not too warm and dry to accommodate the pots during 
the stage at which they would be plunged under more favourable 
conditions. When this means of starting the bulbs has to be 
resorted to, the utmost care must be taken in the watering that 
will have to be done, giving only snfiicient to keep the soil just moist 
from the surface down to the drainage. The pots ought to be 
examined as frequently as possible, so as to guard against absolute 
dryness, as when this state is reached it is most diSicult to get the 
soil moist again without having recourse to plunging in a bucket, 
w^hich is undesirable. 

The length of time during which it is essential that the pots 
shall be plunged varies considerably, as it is affected by the time of 
potting, by the temperature of the plunging bed, and the earliness 
of the sort. The usual period is six weeks, but it is preferable to 
lay down no hard and fast rule, as one can easily decide the correct 
moment for removal by frequent examinations made after the pots 
have been buried for between three and four weeks, by which time 
distinct advance will be evidenced. In the dark the initial move- 
ment in the bulbs will be towards the production of roots, and when 
upon examination it is found that the top has grown to the size of 
a fine Filbert Nut, it is almost invariably safe to assume that roots 
are sufficiently numerous to warrant the removal of the pots from the 
plunging material into the light, when the energies of the plant will 
be about equally divided between the growth above and below the 
surface. (See Fig. 3b, p. 17.) 

Material for Plunging.— The best material for this purpose is 
undoubtedly cocoanut fibre refuse, as it is light, warm, impervious 
to light, and will turn a fair shower of rain. Failing this, ashes may 
be employed, but unfortunately vsome coals produce ashes containing 
a property poisonous to the tender top growth, and disaster follows ; 
for this reason they should be avoided if anything else can be secured 
at moderate cost. Dry leaf mould is successfully used by some 
cultivators, but with this again there is an element of danger, as it 
may contain insect or other pests which will find in the sweet, tender 



POTTING NABOISSl. 



19 




20 PIGTOniAL PR AG TIG AL BULB QUO WING. 



tops food to their liking, and this, of course, will mean more or less 
damage to the plants. In respect of the best place for the plunging 
bed, there is often not much choice, but beside a wall of any kind is 
as good as any, as it is there usually comparatively easy to afford 
protection whenever it may be deemed necessary. When an open 
position has to be utilised, it is wise to have permanent provision 
made for throwing off the heaviest rains ; old mats, pieces of 
tarpaulin, or unused lights can be requisitioned, and will render 
invaluable service. 

Indoor plunging beds are frequently made up, and with proper 
care answer well, but there is always greater liability to drip when 
beneath stages, as well as the probability of the warmth encouraging 
earlier growth than is desirable for the good of the plants. However, 
they must be used at times, and in these cases they should be as 
carefully covered as those out of doors. Broadly speaking, all bulbs 
should be plunged, but in Freesias we have a notable exception, these 
often causing much trouble when treated in the orthodox manner. 

Removal from the Dark.— This is really one of the crucial 
periods in the cultural life of the plant, for it is easy at this stage to 
spoil our chances of success by a small error. It is not likely that 
anyone would so treat the plants as to preclude the development of any 
spike, but they might prejudice them sufficiently to represent the 
difference between an exhibition specimen and one that was drawn 
and poor in colour both in flower and leaf. When the time is reached 
for removal, the grower should bear in mind the fact that until now 
the progress has been wholly in darkness, and this will impress upon 
him the importance of guarding against a sudden shock, such as is 
entailed by bringing the pots directly from total darkness into 
brilliant light. Immediately on removal the pots should be tested 
to ascertain if water is required, giving or withholding it according 
to the result of a careful test ; then they should be stood on the stage 
in a greenhouse, or upon a table if grown indoors, and covered with 
two thicknesses of brown paper or several sheets of newspaper. Allow 
this to remain for two or three days, and then reduce it slightly so 
as to admit an appreciable amount of light ; in a few more days take 
away more paper, until it can be seen that the top growth is assuming 
a deep green colour, when all protection can be dispensed with, and 
the plants have the fullest benefit that unobstructed light can confer 
upon them. 

Feeding. — Whether special food is employed in the mixing of 
the compost or not, it is desirable, if the finest spikes are wanted, to 
feed when the spike is half developed with some suitable manure. 
Application may be made either in dry form or as a liquid, and, all 
things considered, the latter is preferable. The utmost care must 
be taken not to overdo the applications, either in frequency or in 
strength, as such an error leads to harm rather than good. One 
of the most valuable aids to advancement will be found in soot, 
as, apart from encouraging growth, it serves an excellent purpose in 
enriching the colours of both the leaves and the flowers, and thus 



A GOOD BYACmTH. 



21 




FIG. 5.-HYACINTH MORENO, A GOOD BLUSH FOR POTS. 



22 



PIGTOEIAL PBACTIGAL BULB OROWING. 



materially enhancing the beauty of the plants. Nitrate of soda is 
frequently resorted to, but unless it is given with the greatest care 
it is very dangerous, as it is liable to damage the tender roots 
crowded in a small space. If it is used at all, it should not be 
stronger than 5- oz. to 1 gallon of water, but J oz. of super- 
phosphate per gallon is better. Any food made from natural 
manures may be employed, provided it is given in weak doses, and 
that each application alternates with one of pure water. Above 
all things, do not over feed, as this is infinitely worse than not 
feeding at all. 

Forcing Bulbs. — To everyone who has a greenhouse, bulbous 
plants are of such enormous value in the spring months that it 
would be a matter for surprise rather than otherwise if strenuous 
endeavours were not made to bring them into flower before their 
normal time. Fortunately for cultivators, bulbs are very tractable 
in this respect, and, provided we use reasonable precautions, flowers 
will be available over several months, and this at a period when they 
w^ill render splendid service. By pushing on the one hand, and 
retarding on the other, w^e can have a supply of bulbous plants for 
the conservatory or the greenhouse from mid-November until the 
following May, or a period of six months. Such a protracted time 
would, of course, necessitate the utilisation of large numbers of 
bulbs, and the exercise of a considerable amount of skill in their 
management, but, given these things, with proper facilities for grow- 
ing, the difficulties wdll be easily surmounted. 

As the details of soil preparation and potting are precisely the 
same as for ordinary culture, it were a waste of valuable space to 
deal with them now, as would-be forcers have merely to imbibe the 
instructions already given to equip them on points of detail. 

The thing that the grower must realise flrst of all is that all 
varieties of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, or what not are not equally 
amenable to forcing treatment, and in respect of the last named 
particularly neglect of attention to this matter will lead to the 
greatest disappointment. The bulbs that are forced in the greatest 
numbers, thereby proving themselves to be the best fitted for the 
purpose, are White Roman Hyacinths, Van Thol Tulips, Double 
Roman, Paper White, and a few other Narcissi (a simple rule of 
guidance in choosing the latter will be given in due course), some 
Liliums, and several others of much assistance, but not of sufficient 
importance to warrant special mention at this juncture. All the 
so-called Dutch Hyacinths and Tulips may be persuaded to thrown 
up their flowers a little quicker by handling them carefully, but 
they cannot be regarded as suitable for forcing, as any attempt at 
rushing things will result in disaster. 

No matter whether one is dealing with Roman Hj^acinths or 
anything else, a good foundation of roots must be secured before 
any attempt is made to force, and until this is done it is well for 
the grower to proceed along the lines suggested in the preceding 
paragraphs. Encourage plenty of healthy roots and a nice green 



TULIPS m A POT 23 



24 PIOTOniAL PR AC TIG AL BULB QUO WING, 



top, and anything reasonable in the way of artificial heat will be 
promptly and satisfactorily responded to. To place the newly potted 
Eomans directly into heat does not necessarily imply failure, but 
simply that one cannot be so sure of success. As the plants advance 
for flowering, they must have regular supplies of water, with liquid 
manure according to their requirements, making certain that they 
have ample food at all times, or the spikes, which compared with 
those of the Dutch Hyacinths are never very large, will be almost 
too small to be of material value, unless the bulbs were especially 
fine. 

Where abundance of Hyacinths and N"arcissi are wanted for 
cutting purposes, pots should not be employed, as far more produce 
can be secured from the same amount of space and attention by 
putting bulbs into shallow boxes, such, for example, as those which 
are commonly used for the reception of cuttings when large numbers 
have to be struck. It is not absolutely necessary to make auy pro- 
vision for drainage, though it is advantageous to have four or five 
holes burnt in the bottom of the box, over which some rough 
drainage can be placed, so as to make everything as favourable for 
the bulbs as possible. These may be put quite closely together in 
the boxes, but ought not to touch each other if it can be avoided. 
They can be placed in the dark or not, according to convenience, 
as their life is so short that the fact of the roots being some- 
what limited in quantity does not seriously affect the quality of 
the spikes. The motto with Eomans in boxes is a short life and 
a merry one. Tulips and Xarcissi may be treated in a precisely 
similar manner, and will prove equally as satisfactory. The 
former, however, whether in pots or boxes, will require consider- 
ably more water than the other, if the very finest results are sought 
for. 

Time of Potting. — The period at which the bulbs are potted 
varies with the time that they are wanted to flower, and it is always 
desirable to give as much grace as possible, as it is far easier to 
retard the plants a little than it is to hurry them unduly at the last 
moment. From August-potted bulbs of Romans there should be 
no difficulty in having good flowers in November, and successional 
pottings or boxings, as the case may be, will provide plenty of 
spikes until well into the new year. Van Thol Tulips will advance 
at about the same rate, but Narcissi must be allowed a little longer, 
as when pushed too hard they are prone to go blind after the buds 
are formed. Dutch Hyacinths are procurable in September, and 
may be potted at once, or kept to a more convenient time, up 
to December, when all should be got m without further delay. 
The ideal time is probably the middle of October, but each grower 
must exercise his own judgment, and pot so as to have the plants in 
bloom when they are likely to be of the greatest use to him. Some 
people have taken to deferring the potting until well on in January, 
but this is really too late, though it is not actually imperative, 
as was considered years ago. that every bulb should be potted 



BULBS AFTER FLOWEUING. 



25 



before it was showing the green tip of the growth in the apex, 
None except the finest bulbs, procured from sources of the highest 
repute, must be employed for potting, more particularly when 
forcing is to be done. 

Bulbs After Flowering.— The manner in which bulbs that 
liave produced splendid flowers are treated is little short of dis- 
graceful, for they are cast aside as though they never were and 
never could be of any value. It is certainly false economy to retain 
bulbs for pot culture from year to year, as new ones that will 
produce far better flowers can be purchased very cheaply, but, at 
the same time, those which have done good service may be made to 
do something more, if they are correctly handled after flowering. 
For plantiag in borders of mixed plants they are invaluable, while 
for woodlands they are practically as useful as newly bought stock. 
They never develop such handsome trusses after the first season 
of blooming, but the spikes they do produce are valuable for cutting, 
which is more than can be said for the early ones, as these are too 
stiff to have any value for this purpose. Tulips and Narcissi are 
even more serviceable than Hyacinths for planting out. 

The proper way to treat them may be described as briefly as 
possible, for the benefit of those who have been in the habit of 
throwing away useful materiaL As soon as the spike has passed its 
best stage, let it be removed, as its retention means that it is 
taking a certain amount of sustenance for which it will give no 
return. It is to the leaves that we must look to secure some 
irecompense for our labours now, as they contain much stored 
material that will be of use to us if we can get it transferred to 
the bulb in the soil. This is induced by keeping the leaves green 
for a reasonable period, this being ensured by regular, though 
lessened, supplies of water. If these are given, the foliage gradually 
dies down, sending its store of nutriment into the bulbs in the 
process ; first the upper extremities of the leaf turn yellow, this 
slowly spreading to the base, when the work of the leaves may be 
said to be concluded, and they should be removed. No better way 
of managing the plants can be suggested than this, and it has the 
merit of being extremely simple. 

There is one other way in which the bulbs may be treated after 
they have done flowering, and it has, what will be a distinct recom- 
mendation in the eyes of many people, the merit of being even easier 
than the one already suggested. This is to plant them out directly 
they have finished blooming, removing the spike, but not the leaves, 
in the manner directed in the preceding paragraphs. For this 
purpose a piece of ground in good heart should be chosen, and for 
preference it should be shaded from the hottest sun, as strong 
sunshine will rush the ripening of the leaves along too fast for them 
to confer the fullest benefit upon the bulbs. If the soil be naturally 
very dry, it will be necessary to give one or two thorough soak- 
ings of clear water, it not being desirable to use any liquid manure 
at this stage. In the event of the only available space being 



26 FIGTOEIAL FBAGTIGAL BULB GEOWING. 



excessively poor, it will be decidedly advantagous to dig in some 
thoroughly rotted manure, but it must be put in the second spit. 

Staking the Plants. — When the culture has been thoroughly 
good at all stages, it will be found imperative to give the grand 
spikes of Hyacinths, the glowing flowers of Tulips, or the big 
Narcissi some assistance, or they will certainly collapse by their 
own great weight. As this completely spoils their appearance, it 
must be prevented by timely staking. It is unfortunate with 




FIG. 7.-A WIRE SUPPORT FOR HYACINTHS 

A "Wire Support for Hyacinths.— Get about 18 inches of wire, or as 

much as is req aired that will work easily, double it up so that both sides are 
equal, put a stick through the top to form a loop, then twist it down to 
about 4 inches from the ends, bending these out Avide enough to go over 
the bulb. The loop at the top is to tie the blooms to. The first sketch 
shows the support twisted, the other plain. 

Hyacinths that the bulbs are so large as to render it impossible to 
get the stake quite close to the spike, and an ungainly stick by no 
means adds to the good effect. To obviate any trouble in this 
respect, the best way is to have very small sticks sharply pointed, 
and force the end into the bulb itself, where it will stand firmly, 
and, lying closely to the spike, will not be unsightly. The objection 
may be raised that such a method of procedure is sure to damage 
the bulb. And so it will in a minute degree, but it will certainly 
not affect the present year's spike. For planting in the border — 
and this is the ultimate home of most of the pot-grown bulbs — the 
small hole is little if any detriment, as the bulbs appear to flower 
just as well as when they have not been thus barbarously treated. 



BULBS IN GLASSES. 



27 



CDapter in —Bulbs in 6la$$c$, 

One of the most interesting phases of bulb culture is that of 
growing a certain number of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, and a few 
Crocuses in water, glasses suitable for the purpose being readily 
procurable. It is distinctly an aspect of gardening that appeals to 
the ladies, as it is perfectly clean, and the results are usually very 
gratifying to the cultivator. Of all systems it is the one which 
demands the finest bulbs, and by this is not meant the largest, as is 
sometimes thought, but those that are perfectly, sound in every 
respect, or they will fail to bring their spikes to perfection. Even 
under the most favourable conditions, it is seldom that the flowers 
are as good as those produced by bulbs in soil, as these can get so 
much more nourishment ; but they are nevertheless most pleasing, 
and, besides, can be grown by those to whom pot culture is an 
impossibility. 

Selections of bulbs for all purposes are given, but for water 
culture it is ahvays wise to leave the choice of varieties to the vendor, 
as he can then pick them from those having bulbs best suited to 
the purpose in view, which is, of course, made known to him at 
the time of ordering. Glasses of several elegant patterns are 
available, and the choice rests with the purchaser, but it is certain 
that the bulbs thrive as well in what is styled the " old" shape as in 
any. These are upright, and are admirably suited for placing upon 
a window ledge w^hen the spikes are well advanced. The glasses 
with broader bases are more useful for standing upon tables or 
mantelpieces, where there is an ever present liability of knocking 
them over. Whatever shape is decided upon, either those that are 
of dark colours or opaque should be given the preference over clear 
glass, as the roots will keep healthy much longer than when they are 
exposed to the full light through clean glass. 

Soft water is far better for bulbs in glasses than that obtained 
from the pipes, though this has generally to be used, for the simple 
reason that the former is unprocurable in many places. In either 
case, one or two lumps of charcoal ought to be placed in each 
receptacle, as this will be of material assistance in keeping the water 
sweet, though it will not, as some people suppose, provide the 
plants with any food. The food is found in the water, and is, of 
course, in greater abundance in soft than in hard water. The base 
of the bulb need not come in actual contact with the water, but 
must be so close thereto as to only allow a thin piece of note-jDaper 
to be placed between. There will be gradual loss, of course, and 



28 PICTORIAL PRACTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



from time to time this must be made good by the addition of 
fresh supplies, and if necessary by the substitution for the original 
liquid of sweet, fresh water ; it is not desirable to have recourse 
to the latter expedient unless the water becomes objectionable, as 
the roots may be damaged in the process to a serious extent. If it 
be imperative, have fresh water and charcoal immediately at hand, 
withdraw the roots, turn out the stagnant water, thoroughly rinse 
the receptacle, and put in the fresh supplies as quickly and as care- 
fully as possible, never during the operation allowing draughts to 
strike upon the roots. In reading this sounds quite a long and 
laborious task, but in reality it will prove to be the work of a very 
few inoments. 

When the bulbs are in position the glasses must be put in a 
dark cupboard, or other convenient place, in the same way and for 
precisely the same purpose as bulbs in pots. Here they may remain 
until such time as they have made ample root growth, no cognisance 
whatever being taken of the leaf growth in this case. 

The support that is essential in pot culture becomes doubly so 
with plants in glasses, as they have absolutely no anchorage at all. 
Home-made contrivances may be employed if desired, but they are 
not usually as satisfactory as the properly formed wire supports that 
are sold by bulb merchants expressly for the purpose. These are of 
very- moderate price, and with proper care will last an indefinite 
period ; they are neat in appearance, very strong, and can be adjusted 
in a second or two. When bulbs in glasses have done flowering it is 
best to throw them away, as they are so much exhausted by bringing 
large spikes to perfection under such unnatural conditions that they 
are not worth a moment's retention. These cultural remarks may 
be accepted as applying to all kinds of bulbs that are grown in 
water, and are not intended to refer to Hyacinths alone, though 
these are named as examples, they being far away the most popular, 
and, it may be added, the most satisfactory for the purpose. 



so PICTORIAL PIlAGTIGAL BULB GBOWING. 



Cbapter IV —Bulbs in Vases ana Bowls- 

This very cleliglitful manner of bulb growing has come into special 
prominence during comparatively recent years, in fact since the now 
well-known mixture of fibre and shell was brought before the public 
for this express purpose. Long prior to this, of course, bulbs were 
grown in bowls of gravel and water, the Chinese Joss Lily (a form 
of Narcissus Tazetta) being highly recommended. There were, how- 
ever, so many failures, or at best only partial successes, that growers 
were prompt to turn to other and better methods the instant these 
were placed before them. With this fibre and shell compound 
practically all bulbs wdll flourish, though some naturally do better 
than others. Tulips and the Incomparabilis forms of Narcissi being 
particularly desirable owing to their graceful habit of growth. 

One can imagine no more delightful form of bulb growing than 
this, especially for ladies, as it ensures excellent flowers in elegant 
receptacles, that are eminently suitable for standing upon the dining 
and drawing room tables, and thus allowing the lady to show her 
friends how successful she has been in the culture of bulbs. Another 
thing in connection with it that will appeal to the fair sex is its 
absolute cleanliness, it not being necessary to more than very slightly 
soil the fingers in carrying out the whole of the w^ork therewith. 
Any small jars may be requisitioned for the purpose, those in which 
cream is sold being as good as any, though they do not look so well 
as those that are made expressly for bulbs, as these have designs upon 
them which add to the charming eflfect that is produced. Anyone 
feeling reluctant to spend money before knowing exactly what they 
can do in the direction indicated, should try their ^prentice^ hands 
with some cream jugs, and if they exercise care they will certainly be 
more than satisfied with the results they will achieve. 

The great advantage of using jugs, or jars, or bowls with the 
fibre is that no drainage is required, and no provision is made 
for it, so that there can be no objection to their use on the score 
that they will make tablecloths dirty, even if they do not spoil them, 
as too frequently occurs when ordinary pots are used. If there is a 
secret in the successful production of bulbs in these undrained 
receptacles, it lies, beyond a doubt, in having the material in the 
proper state of moisture to start Avith, and in keeping it thus 
throughout the life history of the plant. This, it may at once be 
said, is not an easy thing to do, and, unfortunately, no directions 
that will assist the cultivator can be given, as the conditions of no 
two houses are precisely alike ; it therefore resolves itself wholly into 



EYAGINTHS IN BOWLS. 



31 



a matter of individual judgment. The greatest danger lies in the 
bulbs being forgotten for some days, and then having a lot of water 
applied, under the erroneous impression that it is thus possible to 
make up for lost time. The rule should be to look carefully over 
the plants each day, giving water the instant it is necessary, but 
never before. 

A pretty Hyacinth bowl, B, can be made by cutting holes the 
size of the bullDS in a round piece of wood, as shown in the illus- 
tration at A. This should be placed about 1 inch deep in the bowl 
to rest the bulbs on. 

When the "potting" is done, have the compost pleasantly moist, 
that is to say, so that it will adhere slightly to the fingers when it is 
handled. Make it moderately firm, but do not attempt to leave it as 
hard as a road, and have the nose of the bulb just protruding 
through the surface when the operation is completed. Beyond this, 



treat the bulbs exactly as for pots, and in due course fine flowers 
will come as a reward for the labour expended. In addition to the 
Incomparabilis varieties, the Polyanthus Narcissi grow splendidly, as 
also do some of the large trumpets. After flowering, the bulbs 
should be thrown away, and a start made in the succeeding year 
with a fresh stock. 




FIG. 9.-A BOWL OF HYACINTHS. 



32 PIG TORI AL Pit AC TIG AL BULB GROWING. 



Chapter V. -Bulbs in Wliidoy) Boxes, 



There are few people who cannot liave a window box if they 
want one. Xot that the lot of the owner of window boxes is 
invariably a happy one, especially if he be so unfortunate as to 
dwell in a town where everyone is not as honest as the day, for the 
plants and boxes are apt to develop wings and hie them away to 
* other and more desolate spheres. It is poor consolation indeed to a 
man who has suffered thus to be told that he is certainly brightening 
somebody's home, though there may be some philosophers about who 
regard it in this w^ay. 

What window^ gardeners would do for their spring display 
without the indispensable Dutch bulb one shudders to think, for it 
will be quite safe to assert that out of every ten boxes filled to look 
beautiful in the early months of the year, eight, and perhaps nine, 
either owe their charms to bulbs entirely or are largely filled with 
them. The reasons for this popularity are not far to seek. The 
plants are extremely easy to grow, they do not demand a great 
amount of attention after once being put into their places until the 
spring, they can be procured for a very small outlay of cash, and 
they produce a singularly charming effect, notwithstanding what the 
hypercritical say about their stiffness. One occasionally hears it 
asserted that the use of Dutch bulbs does not permit of any change 
being made in the style of dressing from one year to another, but 
this is an error, as many have proved over and over again. It really 
resolves itself into a question of w^hether the cultivator possesses a 
spark of originality or not, for if he does he will soon ring some 
decided changes, even though the scope be limited. 

For window box culture bulbous plants are unique in utility, 
inasmuch as while we can, if necessary, find substitutes for all other 
plants, such a course is not possible with the bulbs which stand 
alone for spring effects. To ensure the very best results it is 
imperative that there be two boxes for each window, or during the 
^vinte^ months, when the bulbs are making root progress alone, the 
sills must be quite bare— an occurrence that may be easily and 
satisfactorily overcome by adopting the duplicate box sj^stem, as one 
may then have small Conifers for wunter adornment while the bulbs 
are being brought slowdy onward for employment in the early spring. 

Whichever method commends itself to the cultivator, he will 



FOR BVl.BS. 



33 




34 FIGTOBTAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 



adopt the same initial principles to bring success. The boxes are, of 
course, made of the proper size to fit the window sills, and they may 
be faced with cork or tiles entirely at the discretion of the owner, 
thoucih if the latter are selected it behoves the purchaser to proceed 
warily or he will find that he has chosen a tile that immensely 
detracts from the floricuitural effect. Each box must have a certain 
number of holes from which the water will i)ass freely, and as an 
additional precaution it is desirable that small struts be fixed on the 
base so as to elevate the erection about 1 inch above the stone sill. 

The soil for bulbs in boxes may advantageously be similar to that 
used in pot culture, but if this is not convenient excellent results 
will accrue from the use of ordinary garden mould, provided special 
care is exercised in the matter of drainage and in regard to the feed- 
ing that will be necessary at a later date. An abundance of material 
to ensure drainage should be utilised, and it must be most carefully 
protected from the incursions of the fine soil by the use of plenty of 
the rougher portions of the compost or some coarse moss. There 
should be no hesitation in using a lot of material at the bottom 
of the receptacle, as this is almost invariably made quite 3 inches 
deeper than it need be as far as the bulbs are concerned, so that one 
can easily afford space for the purpose indicated. The reduction of 
the bulk of soil is not only convenient but desirable, because it 
reduces the probability of souring to the lowest point. Later on, 
when the bulbs have made plenty of roots and are swelling up the 
flower spikes, it is a very simple matter indeed to make up for any 
deficiency in the soil by special feeding with liquid or concentrated 
foods in the manner suggested for bulb growing in pots. At that 
stage the plants are gross feeders, and the foocl given is instantly 
appropriated by the roots, whereas had it been put in at the start 
much of the best ingredients would have been wasted. 

In the selection of the bulbs to be employed the owner must, of 
course, decide for himself, as there can be no governing factor other 
than personal taste, but it is ahvays desirable for window gardeners 
to remember that they are cultivating for the general public as well 
as for themselves to a much greater degree than those who follow 
up any other phase of the art. They should, therefore, plant in a 
manner that they have reason to believe will meet with universal 
acceptance, and not in a style that will possibly irritate the nerves 
cf eveiy passer-by. It is thus that the gardener may do such a lot of 
good, for it is more than probable that the delightful style of plant- 
ing which he has adopted w^ili lead some fresh recruit into the ranks 
of window gardeners ; and thus our streets and roads will continue 
to grow in beauty until all sills have their occupants, and our town 
and village streets will be infinitely improved. I 

All the hardy bulbs are available for window box planting, but ' 
there are some whose value is very much greater than that of others. 
Three kinds rise conspicuously above all others in general utility, 
and these, it is almost needless to state, are Hyacinths, Narcissi, 
and Tulips, with Crocuses, Scillas, and Snowdrops to furnish the 



SUITABLE BULBS FOE BOXES. 



35 



front. Unless there is some special reason for doing so, it is not 
desirable to plant in the perfectly straight lines that one usually 
observes, though the cultivator has an excuse for this in that he is 
following the lines of the structure. At the same time slight 
irregularity is almost certain to produce a finer effect. Tall Tulips 
of imposing appearance, Keizers Kroon for example, might have 
the position closest to the window, with white Hyacinths in front, 
and, if the box has no greater holding capacity than three rows, 
golden yellow Crocuses intermingled wdth Scilla Sibirica as an 
edging. This is one of the simplest arrangements that can be found, 
but at the same time it is one of the most effective. 

If it is feasible, as it will be wdiere there are two boxes for each 
window, the receptacle, after planting, should be placed in some dark 
position precisely as would be done in the case of bulbs in pots or in 
glasses and for exactly the same purpose. Do not apply any water 
at all before it becomes imperative to do so, and then give just 
sufficient to thoroughly moisten the compost right through to the 
drainage. The surface may be covered with cocoanut fibre refuse, as 
w^ell to improve the general appearance as to reduce the necessity for 
watering by conserving the moisture in the soil. When the move- 
ment in and above the mould is active, the top growth should be 
gradually inured to the full light in the same manner and with the 
same care as that of bulbs which are growing in pots. Never try to 
force the plants to come into flower, as though one can easily hasten 
them a little"; it is bad policy, because they will feel the cold so much 
when put out that the probabilities are they will succumb. 




36 PICTORIAL PE ACTIO AL BULB GROWING. 



Chapter VL— Bulbs in tU Woodland, 

The very sound of the lieadiDg of the present chapter will appal the 
town gardener, whose area is limited to so many square feet of cat- 
infested land. He will probably pass it over with a shrug of the 
shoulders and a muttered expression of its uselessness, and, mayhap, 
a pang of envy at his more fortunate brethren who are blessed with 
woodlands in which to plant bulbs and wander at will. Assuredly 
woodland walks and dells add immensely to the interest of any 
e.^tate, particularly when beneficent Nature has done the planting 
for us in her own inimitable way. If we gardeners could copy 
Nature with perfect accuracj^, our gardens, especially in the wilder 
portions such as the woodland, would be infinitely more beautiful 
than they are ; but, failing in this, we must do our best with Nature as 
the teacher. 

The observant travelling horticulturist soon realises that Nature's 
motto is summed up in one short word, " boldness." Look at the 
Bluebells (see p. 37) and the Lilies of the Valley in the wood, the 
Heather on the hillside, the Willow Herb on the waste ground, and 
see whether they do not all create an air of boldness, even though it 
may be, and often is, softened down by its surroundings until it 
appears as the sweetest simplicity. These are merely a few instances 
out of the many that could be cited, but they suffice for the 
present purpose, which is to impress upon woodland planters the 
absolute necessity for strong conceptions, or an effect may be 
produced that will be nothing more than a poor burlesque upon 
Nature in one of her most delightful guises. True, one must always 
adopt the tailor's law and cut according to the cloth, but it is 
irrefutable that in woodland planting the finest effects are pro- 
duced when we can think in thousands and plant in acres. 

It is no easy matter to plant woodland walks and glades success- 
fully, as &o much depends upon the soil and the trees, which will 
inevitably bring failure to some bulbs, while others would flourish 
and increase enormously. Here, again, it is the soundest of sound 
advice to say, "Copy Nature." When it is decided to plant, spend 
as much time as can be afforded in the neighbouring woods studying 
the vegetation there, and taking particular note of the plants that 
are known to si)ring from a bulbous root. Never hurry over this, as 
it will certainly prove to be time well spent, for it is no small loss to 
put in, as one may easily do at this work, 10,000 or 20,000 bulbs, 
only to find them fail owing to some locd inadapt ibility, which could 
readily have been avoided by the exercise of care and forethought in 



BLUEBELLS LN A ^YOOD. 37 



38 FIGTOEIAL PUAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



the direction indicated. It is not merely the cost of the bulbs 
themselves that is thrown away; we have also to consider the time 
that has been expended in planting, and the disappointment that 
must accrue from the loss of the display for one or more years. 

Apart from the thorough appreciation of the facts set forth, the 
actuai process of planting will be the same as in that for grass 
gardening, only that the work will not be quite so carefully done, 
as the loss of a dozen bulbs out of several thousands will not cause 
any serious regret, as would be the case where only a hundred or so 
had been put in. Of course, this must not be read as inferring that 
simply throwing the bulbs into their places without care or thought 
of the results should be tolerated, for this is by no means the case. 
It is intended to convey the idea that the elaboration of detail may 
be safely avoided, but does not warrant the planter in going beyond 
all the bounds of reason. 

Broadly speaking, all the kinds of bulbs that can be grown in the 
grass are available for woodland planting, but actually such is not 
the case, for it behoves the majority of us at any late to take some 
cognisance of cost, and this alone will put many very beautiful 
bulbous plants quite out of court, as the expense of purchasing the 
requisite number would be utterly prohibitive. Apart altogether 
from the monetary aspect of the question, we have also to keep in 
view the fact that we are now about to produce a bold effect, for 
which purpose it is probable that a cheap I)affodil or other bulb will 
be equally as serviceable as one that cost ten times the money ; we 
are not proposing to study the points of an individual flower, but to 
create a spectacle that will charm by its breadth and boldness. For 
these reasons it will be permissible to recommend the purchase of 
the cheaper Daffodils, Crocuses, Tulips, Scillas, and any others for 
which there may be a desire, remembering always that the pot grown 
bulbs that are not required for grass gardening can be profitably 
utilised in the Avoodland. 

To those whose best semblance of the woodland lies in a hedge- 
row consolation may be found in the knowledge that the banks may 
be planted with bulbs with the most charming results, as can be 
seen in many a garden of very modest extent and in scores of 
greater pretensions. One of the prettiest May pictures in Barrs' 
nurseries at Long Ditton is a bank upon the side of which several 
hundreds of bulbs of Muscari comosum, Heavenly Blue, were planted 
a few years ago. Here and there amongst the ]\fuscaris Daffodils 
nod their head^, and, though comparatively limited in numbers, 
they unquestionably play a conspicuous part in the general effect. 
Such a picture is within the reach of hundreds of garden owners, 
whose grass clad banks could be cheaply and quickly made twenty- 
fold more attractive than they now are. 



BULBS IN GFvASS. 



39 



Cl)apter \^ I Bulbs in 6ra$$^ 

I The charms of bulbous flowers are never better exemplified than 
|f when the blooms are seen rising from the soft green turf and 
il swaying in the slightest breeze that blows. Their popularisation 
j for this purpose is largely due to the admirable manner in which 
, they have been employed in the botanic gardens in various parts of 
f the country, notably at Kew. where the annual displays rank with 
the most beautiful horticultural features of the year ; to the splendid 
effects that the superintendents of our public parks and gardens 
have made, one of the finest London pictures being in Battersea 
Park ; and to the strenuous support that the system has received 
from such leading lights in the world of gardening as Miss Wiilmott, 
V.iVr.H., and Mr. Wm. Eobinson, These enthusiastic amateurs have 
put Daffodils in the turf of their estates in all directions, and the 
results are beautiful beyond description in the early months of the 
year. 

It is, unfortunately, not possible for every one of us to plant bulbs 
in the numbers that we see in the places adverted to in the pre- 
ceding paragraph, for the simple reason that our gardens are not 
sufficiently large to allow of it. We may, however, all do a little in 
the right direction by utilising the bulbs which have been flowered 
in pots, and which are too frequently thrown away, for positions in 
the grass v/here the ragged appearance created by the dying leaves 
of the bulbs and the coarse condition of grass consequent upon 
neglect of cutting is not deemed too serious an eyesore. Herein 
lies the one disadvantage that accrues to the cultivation of bulbs 
in grass, for it is imperative that the foliage be left upon the plants 
until, having turned quite yellow, it has obviously fulfilled its 
functions and may be removed. This process of perfect maturation, 
which is so essential to success, involves delay in mowing, hence the 
undesirabilit}^ of planting bulbs immediately in sight of windows, 
where the untidiness would undoubtedly be intolerable. 

Pa^sin^ a short distance from the parterre, which is always kept 
trim and tidy, so as to be in harmony with the external appearance 
of the house, there will probably come a bend in the grass with a 
background of shrubs and trees, and it is from just such spots as 
these that the greatest value can be derived in grass gardening, for 
the visitor treading the smooth turf will turn quite unexpectedly 
upon a picture of golden Daflbdils or gorgeous Tulips, whose flowers, 
with their soft background, will astonish and delight him beyond 
measure. Here the long grass does not irritate by its unkempt 



40 



VIGTOIUAL PRJCTIGAL BULB GBOWIXQ. 



appearance, but is gladl}^ tolerated because it aids substantially in 
producing one of the most charming corners of the garden in spring. 

It has already been said that the bulbs ^vhich have done a season 
of excellent service in the greenhouse are of the utmost value for 
planting in grass, and, unfortunately, some persons appear to think 
that because old bulbs are being utilised it becomes little more than 
a waste of valuable time to give care and thought to good and 
effective work. This is not, however, the way to set about any 
gardening operation, or it is certain that failure in a greater or lesser 
degree wull be the lot of the gardener. Success demands that each 
detail shall have proper attention, and grass gardening aflbrds no 
exception to the role. 

The commonest error of all is that which results in the bulbs 
being planted in lines, and thus tends to bring the formality of the 
flower garden beyond its sphere. Straight lines or regular curves 
should be avoided, and the planting must be so done as to give 
the best possible idea of natural growth. This is by no means an 
easy thing to do, more especially where the amount of space avail- 
able for the purpose is at all limited. The most satisfactory results 
have been found to follow upon the studied neglect of any suspicion 
of a plan, and this is best ensured by standing some little distance 
away from the place that is to be planted and, taking a good 
handful of bulbs, throwing vigorously so as to make them scatter as 
much as possible. Or, as an excellent alternative, stand in the 
centre of the area and throw the handful of bulbs high above the 
head, giving the wrist a rotatory motion at the moment of ejection. 
In both cases the subsequent movements will be the same, and will 
consist of putting each bulb into the soil at the spot where it fell. 

Some objection may be raised to this practice on the score that 
there is a liability of many of the bulbs being lost through its 
adoption, but, as a matter of fact, the danger in this direction is 
slight, and if one or two do go astray it will not be a serious matter, 
as the varieties which are usually requisitioned for the purpose are 
not generally the expensive ones, but rather those which can be 
bought very cheaply. iVgain, the shortness of the grass in autumn 
w^hen the planting is done favours the ready finding of every bulb 
by an operator who exercises a reasonable amount of care in his 
work. 

In the distribution of the bulbs in the manner indicated, one 
has to take into previous consideration the space at command, and 
whether it is desired to have masses of one kind or variety, or a 
mixture of as many as can be got together. There can scarcely be 
two opinions as to which system will produce the more striking 
effects, and that is separate masses. But this means that a fairly 
extensive amount of room must be accorded, as two or three bulbs 
of a variety are apt to look somewhat forlorn in their splendid 
isolation. Let the determining factor, therefore, be size and nothing 
else, having masses or mixtures just as the space ^vill allow. If the 
latter is the only feasible plan, then mix Tulips, Crocuses, Snake's 



PLAXTIXG IN- GRASS. 



41 



Head Lilies and Daffodils in one basket, whence they may be dravrn 
for distribution in handfuls that are as varied as they can be made 
without attempting anything in the way of selection. 

The actual planting demands skill, care, and the use of proper 
loois. It is first of all necessary to cut out the piece of turf beneath 
the waiting bulb, and then to substitute for the soil some sound 
loam if it is thought that the natural mould is at all poor. Xext the 
bulb or bulbs will be placed in position precisely as one would do 
prere the work being carried out in the flower beds and 1: orders. 
After the covering of soil, new or old as the case may be, is put on, 
ft only remains to replace the piece of turf that was removed before 
the work may be said to be completed. The requisites are, then, a 
sharp turf cutter, a barrowload of prepared soil, and a cartload of 
common sense, which will ensure the results being in all respects 
satisfactory to everyone. It is somewhat tedious work certainly, 
but it will thoroughly repay for all the time that is spent upon it. 
For those who would have a turf cutter and a soil excavator in the 
same tool, there is nothing to equal the admirable implement that 
has been invented by Earrs for tliis express purpose, as it is easy to 
handle and does its work in a perfect manner. 



Ix the foregoing chapters general hints on bulb culture in various 
forms have been given. In the succeeding chapters the principal 
bulbous and allied plants will be dealt with in alphabetical order, 
selections of varieties and special remarks on culture being given 
where required. 



•42 PIOTOBIAL FBACTICAL BULB GEO WING. 



Cbapkr Vlfl. — ^icbiiiKiies, Aconites, 

Achimenes. — These are iti some degree plants of a past 
decade, for in the daj's that have gone there were few warm 
greenhouses whence they were absent. The provision of good 
iibrous loam in well-drained pots or pans, careful attention in 
respect of watering and staking, with a season of absolute rest 
after flowering, and a warm, moist atmosphere during the time 
of active growth, will be found to practically ensure success. 
Achimenes make excellent basket plants. Species and hybrids 
are numerous, and afford a fine diversity of colour. A collection 
of six or twelve named varieties from a reliable source usually 
gives every satisfaction. (See jj. 43.) 

Aconites. — Who does not know and love the delightful 
winter Aconite, known to the wise as Eranthis hyemalis 't It 
is one of the first flowers of the spring, and its cheerful yellow 
blooms in their ruff of bright green leaves are ever welcome. 
Tubers should be planted as early in autumn as possible. It is 
useful for borders, grass, or for semi-shaded positions in the 
woods. The species Cilicica is much later flowering, and has 
deeper hued blooms. 

Anoniatheca crueiita. — By this name many of us liave 
grown what the botanist now describes as Lapeyrousia cruenta. 
It is a charming but rather tender plant, which must be accorded 
frame treatment except in warm climates. A light, sandy loam 
is the most suitable soil, and whether in or out of doors perfect 
drainage is essential. The colop.r of the species named is 
crimson, grandiflora is scarlet, and juncea is pink. Propagation 
is by seeds or offsets. 



Cbapter 1X«— fliliuiiis, 

'J'liEiiE are a large number of species in this genus, many being of 
considerable beauty for borders ; while some are of value for culture 
in pots. For garden purposes, however, the selection may be limited 
with comparative ease to about a dozen kinds. The objection brought 
against tliese plants by the majority of people is that they have a very 



44 



PICTORIAL PEACTICAL BULB GROWING. 



strong smell of Onions, and for this reason cannot be grown. But 
in some, notably in A. Neapolitanum, this is not apparent unless the 
flov/er is handled, and few persons are likely to do that when they know 
the consequences. The bulbs are all strongly impregnated with the 
Onion odour, but it can be readily removed from the hands upon 
the completion of planting with the aid of plenty of water and 
soap. Economically the genus is of immense value, as it com- 
prises the Onion, Shallot, and Garlic. 



Selection of Alliums. 



acuminatum, deep rose, 
ceruleum, sky blue. 
*Hermettii grandiflorum; 

white. 
Karataviense, white. 
Macnabianum, white. 
Moly, yellow, handsome. 



narcissiflorum, rose. 
■^Neapolitanum, white. 
Ostrowskianum, rose, 
roseum, rose, 
sphere cephalum, purple, 
triquetrum, white. 



All the species that are included in the foregoing brief list 
are perfectly hardy in our gardens, and the same may be said of the 
few others that receive occasional notice for the sake of their 
distinctness in the border of mixed plants. It should, however, 
be remembered that at least tw^o are extremely useful for forcing in 
pots, and these are indicated by an asterisk. 



Cbapkr X — ^llstromerias. 

"Ah!" someone may say, "It is all very well to recommend 
Alstromerias, but they will not gro^v in my garden." Well, let us ask, 
" Is that the fault of the garden, the grower, or the Alstromerias ? " 
The Chilian Herb Lilies are certainly not a success on heavy, cold 
soils, or in water-logged gardens, but in a fairly warm position 
and well drained soil they can be induced to thrive amazingly 
without any other trouble than the mere planting, a good dose of 
water in dry summers, (liquid manure if it can be spared), and a 
little dry litter spread over the roots in the winter. Surely this 
is not too much to ask for one of the choicest of border plants. 
The finest clump we have seen was in the master's tiny garden 
behind a Surrey village school. 

The quaint little sausage-shaped tubers, so quaintly strung 
together, need to be planted from 6 inches to 9 inches deep, in the 
autumn. If the staple soil is not suitable, it must be made so 
by the addition of leaf mould and sand, for it is well worth while 



GOOD ALSTROMEllIAS. 



45 



to take the trouble. One may go so far as to excavate a bed oi" 
border to the depth of 2 feet, putting 3 or 4 inches of crocks and 
broken bricks in the bottom, overlaying this with turf or rough soil, 
and filling up the rest of the space wdth a light, rich compost of 
loam, leaf soil, and old hot bed manure, with some coarse sand. But 
it is not often necessary to go this length, as Alstromerias do quite 
well in a properly prepared flower border. They are likely to suffer 
more from damp in winter than from frost. 

Selection of Alstrbmerias. 

aurantiaca, orange, spotted Pelegrina, %Yhite and pale 
red. purple, shaded yellow 

aurea, golden yellow. and spotted purple. 

Chilensis, yellow, crimson Peruviana, purple and yel- 
and purple. low ; of this there are 

Errembaultii, rose and several varieties. 

white, spotted crimson psittacina, crimson, tipped 
and yellow. green and spotted purple. 

violacea, violet. 

We do not recommend Alstromerias for pot culture, except in the 
case of Pelegrina and its variety alba, w^hich require greenhouse 
protection. 



Chapter Xi — ilmarpllises. 

For the purposes of this chat iVmaryllises wdll only be regarded as 
consisting of those superbly gorgeous bulbous plants that have been 
brought into existence by the art of the florist, and are known, as 
a class, by the titles of Amaryllis and Hippeastrum. Bulbs of named 
varieties are somewhat expensive, but it is best to start with a few of 
these if the grower intends to be the raiser of meritorious seedlings. 
Fine results are to be obtained from the produce of purchased seeds, 
but about three years will elapse ere seedlings reach a flowering size. 
Given the necessary patience and ability, it is not diflScult to work up 
a choice collection in the course of a few years, provided rigid 
selection is practised as each flovN^ering season comes round. (See 
p. 47.) 

6ow^ the seeds, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe, in well-drained 
pots or pans, in a light mixture of loam, leaf mould, and sand. In 
a temperature of from 60"^ to 70^ germination is rapid, and it will 
not be long before the seedlings need more room. When they 
have made three or four tiny leaves, put them singly into 3-inch 
pots, in a similar compost, but of rougher texture. After they 



46 



FIG TOE I AL FBACTICAL BULB GROWING, 



become established in these pots a temperature of from 50?^ to 60^^ 
will suffice. In their earlier stages of growth Amaryllis seedlings 
do not require the winter re-t that is so essential a part of the 
culture of old bulbs. During the winter, however, less warmth 
and moisture are needed. Further potting must follow as the 
demands of the plants dictate. 

Now turn to bulbs of a flowering size and age. Early in the 
new year they should be shiken out of the exhausted soil, and 
potted in a compost of 2 parts loam, 1 part decayed cow manure, and 
a good sprinkling of sand. Where there are facilities for so doing, 
it is a capital plan to stack the turves of loam, with layers of fresh 
cow manure between, six months before the soil is needed ; this 
advice applies with equal force to many other subjects that like rich 
feeding. Crock the pots well, and pot the bulbs firmly. Do not 
fall into the frequent error of overpotting. Bulbs w^e may expect to 
flow^er for the first time will generally find accommodation in 5-inch 
pots, and those a size larger may be placed in pots with a diameter 
of G inches. The largest bulbs should be reserved for 8-inch .pots, and 
it will be in very rare cases that a 9-inch pot will be required. This, 
of course, has reference only to single bulbs ; it is quite open to 
an} one to put several bulbs in a pot of a larger size, but this form of 
culture has little to commend it. 

At the conclusion of potting, each bulb should stand with its neck, 
and the whole of its upper surface, above the soil. Plunge the pots 
to the rim in spent tan or cocoanut- fibre refuse where there is a 
slight bottom heat, but the temperature of the house or pit should 
be an intermediate one, the object being to secure good root action 
before the spikes appear. No water must be given until spikes or 
leaves have made some slight progress, hence it is necessary that the 
soil be moderately moist at potting time. The hurry to give water 
at a time w'hen there are neither roots nor leaves to use it has proved 
a stumbling-block in many cases. 

The large, handsome, broadly trumpet shaped flow^ers will expand 
about March or April, but it is easy to delay the flowering, by cooler 
conditions, if such be deemed desirable. Plenty of fresh air, but 
no draughts, should be an accompaniment of the season of fiowers, 
as the plants will then sufier no harm if placed in the conservatory 
for a week or so. After flowering there must be a return to the old 
(quarters, and the provision of a higher temperature with additional 
moisture ; frequent syringings are advisable to. secure free growth, 
and to keep down insect pests. As soon as leaf growth is complete 
reduce the water sui)ply, and cease to syringe. Continue the 
reduction gradually until the leaves are yellow^, when watering must 
cease entirely for the season, and abundance of air and full sunshine 
n.ust be permitted to play upon the plants to ripen and solidify the 
bulbs. Ptemove the stock from the plunge bed, and w'inter it in a 
temperature of from 45^ to SC. 

It is only justice to state that the principal raisers of Amaryllises 
in this country are Messrs. J. Veitch and ^Sons, of Chelsea, and 



AMARYLLISES FROM SEED. 



47 




48 PIGTOBIAL FBAGTICAL BULB GBOWIXG. 



E. P. Ker and Sons, of Aigburtb, Liverpool. They have both beaten 
our Continental neighbours on many occasions. 



Selection of 

Acidale, light scarlet. 
Autocrat, scarlet, striped 
white. 

Beethoven, orange, veined 
white. 

Chancellor, red, striped 
Avhite. 

Duke of Alban}-, deep 

scarlet. 
George Nicholson, blood 

red, feathered white. 
Her Majesty, white, shaded 

scarlet. 



Amaryllises, 

Juno, scarlet and white. 
Meteor, white, striped 

crimson. 
Olympia, crimson scarlet, 

shaded orange. 
Prince of Orange, orange, 

shaded white. 
Queen Victoria, wliite, 

striped crimson. 
Eobur, rich carmine. 
Star of India, carmine, 

white stripes. 



Chapter XI I,- Anemones. 

THEPtE are few hardy tuberous-rooted plants grown in gardens that 
are more popular than the brilliantly beautiful Anemones, whose 
flowers are with us from the earliest days of spring until the frosts 
of winter come to rob us of their charms. Commensurate with the 
length of the flowering season are the range of colouration, the varied 
forms and sizes of blooms, and the great differences in the stature and 
habit of the several kinds. They range from the lowly A. rauunculoides 
to the 3 feet high A. Japonica, or, if we wish, to the stately species 
A. Fanninii, which requires greenhouse culture. 

Xot only are Anemones of the utmost value for garden decoration, 
but they are also excellent for cutting purposes. The blooms do not 
last as long as those of many other plants, it is true, but if secured 
before full expansion their life is of sufficiently long duration to 
bring a great amount of pleasure. The time of gathering has an effect 
not only upon the longevity of the flower, but also on its suitability 
for vases, as with age the stems, naturally somewhat weak for the 
burden they have to carry, lose rigidity, and fail to hold up the flower 
so that its full beauty can be appreciated. 

As far as garden purposes are concerned, species of Anemones 
are not particularly numerous, but the varieties are apparently 
innumerable ; fortunately for those who abhor labels in the herbaceous 
border and garden the mania for naming every little variation does 
not appear to have invaded the Anemone family to quite the same 



GOOD ANEMONES. 



49 



degree that it has many other genera, and we can have, if we wish, 
at least a hundred different varieties under no more than two or three 
names. Except in a few instances no attempt is here made to 
include varietal names, but w^here it appeared to enhance the utility 
of the selection, the case of A. Japonica to w4t, it has been done. A. 
Hepatica and its varieties have been for years grown as Hepaticas, 
and, despite the change made by the botanists, by this appellation 
they are still known, growni, and loved in the \ast majority of 
gardens ; they will, therefore, be treated of under* Hepatica. 



Selection of Anemones. 



Aldebiirgh, resembling A. 
fulgeus, but larger and 
rounder, colours varied. 

Alpina, white. 

Apennina, blue ; rose and 
white varieties. 

blanda, blue or white ; 
Scytliinica and Taurica 
are fine varieties. 

coronaria, almost all 
colours ; there are differ- 
ent strains of this species, 
of which the St. Brigid 
and the Alderborough 
St: Brigid are the best. 

fulgens, glowing scarlet ; 
the double forms, as 
well as the varieties mul- 
tipetala and Greca, are 
worth growing. 

Hortensis, colour^s various ; 
the variet}^ named sttl- 
lata flore pleno is in- 
teresting and beautiful. 



Jai^onica, red ; there are 
several named varieties 
of exceptional merit, 
including alba^ hybrida, 
Lady Ardilaun, Lord 
Ardilaun, Whirlwind, 
Coupe d' Argent, and 
Beaute Parfaite. 

narcissiflora, white. 

nemorosa, white ; several 
varieties, of which 
Allenii, cerulea, flore 
pleno, purpurea, Eobin- 
soniana, rosea, and the 
quaint bracteata are the 
best. 

polyanthes, white. 

Pulsatilla (the Pasque 
Flower), blue. 

ranunculoides, yellow ; 
very dwarf. 

rivularis, white. 

sylvestris, white ; the dou- 
ble form is charming. 



As everyone knows, weget scores of thousands of Anemone flowers 
\ from the south of France each season ; the varieties principally sent 
i are Chapeau du Cardinal and Rose de Nice, both of w^hich are well 
{ worth growing at home expressly for cutting purposes. 

For depth of planting Crowm Anemones, see Fig. 1, pp. 8 and 9. 
!;, These flowers are easily raised from seed sowm in spring. 



i 

li ■ O 



50 PIGTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GBOWIXG. 



Cbapter xm*— Jlrum £ilks. 

Popularly known by many quite permissible names, such as 
Lily of the N'ile and Calla or Eicbardia Aethiopica, Eichardia 
Africana is a universal favourite. Its superb white flowers are 
regarded as indispensable in many forms of floral decorations. 
It is hardier than people appear to imagine, succeeding out of 
doors in all except the coldest districts if planted in water. It 
is, however, as a greenhouse plant that the Arum Lily shines. 
Provide a sound loam, give pure water and liquid manure generously 
when the plants are approaching the flowering stage, plant them 
out in well manured ground in summer, watering freely in hot, 
dry weather, and no difficulty should be experienced in getting 
an abundance of blooms over a period varying with the conveniences 
for hastening or retarding the plants. The variety Little Gem 
is not usually regarded as quite so free flow^ering as the type, 
but it is very beautiful, and no efi'ort should be spared to induce 
it to succeed. The yellows, EUiottiana and Pentlandi, are also 
popular. Propagation may be readily eff'ected by division either 
before or after planting, giving preference to the latter. The pot 
plants which are planted out in summer should be lifted in early 
autumn. The true Arums are much more curious than beautiful ; 
they grow well in any good soil, and prefer an open, ^ sunny 
position, where some protection can be afforded in winter in cold 
districts. Italicum, Dracunculus, and Palestinum are three of 
the best. 



Cbapter XIV — Babianas. 

The old saying " Good things are usually done up in small parcels " 
is eminently applicable to the beautiful little Babianas, for these 
fairy-like flowers are freciuently passed over for others that have little 
else except size to recommend them. Seldom exceeding 9 inches in 
height, even under the most favourable conditions, Babianas must 
be regarded as jewels requiring a careful setting. Nature has herself 
been kind to these gems among Gape bulbs, and has provided them 
with plaited, hairy, deep green leaves, against which the bright hued 
flowers show up well. 

In the northern parts of the kingdom Babianas are usually w^asted 
if planted out of doors, but in the *'suni;y south" the garden may be 



il 



SOME GOOD BABIANAS. 



51 



made the brighter by their presence during the months of June and 
July. Success only comes to those who work for it, and the work in 
this particular instance means the preparation of a bed of light soil, 
well drained, and raised 6 inches above the surrounding level. Sandy 
loam, with plenty of leaf soil, and ^ome old decomposed stable 
manure will suit admirably, but in many gardens the addition of leaf 
soil and sand is all that will be necessary. Choose a sunny position ; 
plant the bulbs— corms to be strictly correct — 3 inches deep, and 
protect them with a covering of Bracken or litter until March. 

Where climatic influences preclude outdoor culture recourse must 
be had to pots . Put five bulbs in each 4-inch pot, plunge the pots in 
cocoanut fibre refuse in a cold frame, and when growth commences 
put the plants on a shelf in the greenhouse. If there is one point that 
needs to be emphasised more than another in dealing with the pot 
culture of Babiana^, it is the advice to give no water until the leaves 
appear. 

Selection of Babianas. 



stricta, white aud blue. 
Of this there are 
several pretty varie- 
ties, notably atro- 
cyaiiea, dark blue ; 
rubro-cyanea, blue 
and crimson ; and 
sulphurea, pale yel- 
low. 



ringens, scarlet. 

Mixed Babianas are so 
cheap that where it 
is not essential that 
colours be kept separ- 
ate these will give 
equal satisfaction. 



Chapter XV.— Beaontas* 

HoRTicuLTtJiiE hath her triumphs a^ great as any that adorn the 
banners of other arts and sciences. Her progress is quiet, but none 
the less sure. We are led to make this reflection by the present subject. 
The history of the Tuberous Begonia is a fascinating one. Started on 
its way by ^Messrs, J. Yeitch and Sons, the race was taken in hand 
by that famous old florist the late Mr. John Laing, who brought 
it into popularity, and showed to the world what wonderful capacity a 
flower has for improvement in the hands of a patient individual who 
has a strong and scientifically founded belief in its possibilities. 
Other firms and individuals have entered enthusiastically into the 
work of improvement. One has but to visit the Temple Show a 
couple of years in succession to find that such names as Cannell, 
Ware, Blackmore and Langdon, Davis, Jones, and many others are 
all associated in horticultural circles with Begonias of the highest 
quality. 

Double Beo^onias have a clever w^ay of imitating other flowers 
closely, yet without losing their identity ; they personate Koses, 
Peonies, and Hollyhocks in a wonderful manner, but latterly they have 



52 PIGTOBIAL PBACTICAL BULB GBOWJKG. 



copied the fashion of our kidy friends and gone in strongly for frills 
and laces ; in other words, we have the heavily crested Begonia. 
Further, mated with some of the winter-flowering sjDecies the 
Tuberous Begonia has been the means of providing us with a race 
of plants that brought brightness and beauty into the winter of 
our discontent. Messrs. Veitch and Sons and M. Lemoine bear off 
the honours for this new race. 

The advice given for raising Gloxinias from seed (p. 114) applies 
with equal force here, but alter the seedling stage is passed the 
Begonias require an intermediate rather than a stove temperature, 
and in due course they will find a happy home in the greenhouse, 
en route for the conservatory, or reach the flower garden via a coid 
frame. Begonias are liable to damp off while still in the seed pan ; 
the remedy is air and not too much moisture, coupled with the 
transference of the tiny plantlets to other pans at the earliest 
moment possible. Delay of a few hours only may mean all the 
difference between success and failure, for the dreaded " damp 
will clear off" a pan of seedlings in a night. 

February, or early March, is a good time to start old tubers into 
growth, and there is no better plan than just covering them with 
leaf soil or cocoanut fibre refuse in a warm greenhouse or on a 
hotbed under a frame. With the production of roots and the 
commencement of stem growth pottino' must proceed apace. Select 
the tubers for pot culture, and provide them with a substantial 
compost of loam, leaf soil, dried cow manure, and sand ; Begonias 
love good living. From now right on to the conservatory or the 
exhibition tent should be a steady march of progress. As the 
weather grows warmer air should be more freely given, and if there 
is a deep, unheated pit at disposal, it is the right place for the plants 
during the early summer. Thinning and tying out the growths 
are details upon which time is well spent, and liquid feeding is an 
item that must on no account be overlooked. Liquid cow manure, 
the colour of pale ale, is the best and safest food for Begonias, but 
soot water given occasionally adds colour and vigour to leaf and 
branch. 

' For summer bedding the started tubers give the best results for 
a minimum of trouble if planted in a warm pit, in a bed of moderately 
rich soil. Sturdy plants are now the aim rather than large 
ones, and this method enables the grower to inure his stock to 
outdoor conditions in the easiest and best manner possible, so as to 
be ready for planting out iu e.irly June. 

Winter flowering varieties are chiefly the children of a species 
named Socotrana. Those having a Tuberous Begonia as one parent 
are propagated annually from cuttings of young growth produced 
by plants that have been rested and then started in brisk heat. 
Such cuttings are put singly into small pots filled with sandy soil 
and placed in a close propagating frame. What may be called cool " 
stove treatment is well suited to their needs until about midsummer, 
but thence on to September less fire heat and more ^^ir will give the 



54 PIGTOBIAL FBACTWAL BULB GBOWING. 




FIG. 15.-BEG0NIA MABEL KEEVIL. 

(See page 56.) 



56 PIGTOEIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWIXG. 



better results. Good loam, with some sand and a little dried cow 
manure, is an excellent mixture to pot this section in, but it is 
necessary to add a word of caution against the use of large pots ; 
those of 6 inches diameter are big enough for the largest plant. 

That other group of hybrids having Gloire de Lorraine as its 
type requires warmth all the year round. The root stock of these 
latter is not a tuber, but rather a compact cluster of thickened buds 
that remain dormant for a short period. Very little water must be 
given them at this time, but to dry them otF as in the case of a 
Tuberous Begonia or a Gloxinia would be to kill them ; neither ought 
the temperature in which they rest to be lower than that in which 
they grew. Liberal feeding, an occasional dewing overhead, fumiga- 
tion by the vaporising process, staking and tying, all play their part. 

Selection of Begonias. 



Louhle l^irietles. 
Aurora, yellow. 
Baron Schroder, orange 

scarlet. 
Beauty of Belgrove, rose 

pink. 

B. K. Da^^s, crimson, 
Duchess of Fife, white. 
Felix Crousse, orange 

scarlet. 
Henshaw Russell, orange. 
La France, rose. 
Mabel Keevil, white (see 

i^. 54.) 

Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain, 

blush {see p. 55). 
Mrs. Tweedie, white. 
Mrs. Lynch, salmon. 
Octavie, white. 
Rev. E. Lascelles, yellow. 
Rose Laing, rose pink. 
Sir J. Pender, salmon, 

Single Varieties. 
Beacon, crimson. 
Delight, pink. 
Duchess of Westminster, 

salmon. 
Firefly, crimson scarlet. 
Gloriosum, yellow. 
Hero of Omdurman, orange 

scarlet. 
King of the Begonias, 

crimson. 
Lady Grosvenor, salmon. 
Miss Cannell, rose pink. 
Prince of Orange, orange 

scarlet. 
Queen of Roses, rose. 
Queen of Yellows, yellow. 
Snowdrift, white. 
Snowstorm, white. 



Winter Floireriitg Varieties, 
Adonis, carmine. 
Caledonia, white. 
Ensign, red, 
Gloire de Lorraine, rose. 
Gloire de Sceaux, pink, 

dark leaves. 
John Heal, rosy carmine. 
Socotrana, rose. 
Turnford Hall, white. 
Winter Cheer, scarlet. 
Winter Gem. deep carmine. 

Bedding Varieties. 

Argus, glowing scarlet. 

Hollyhock, rich pink. 

Lafayette, crimson scarlet. 

Little Pet ; this is rather a 
classnanie than a varietal 
one, as it includes almost 
the whole range of use- 
ful bedding coloiu^s, the 
several forms being 
known respectivelv as 
White Pet, Scarlet Pet, 
Yellow Pet, etc. 

Louise Robert, rose, double. 

Meteor, orange, bronze 
leaves. 

Mons. L. Urban, crimson, 

double, 
phosphorescens, scarlet, 

semi -double. 
Semperflorens Princess 

Beatrice, rose pink. 
Semperflorens Vernon, 

pink, metallic bronze 

leafage. 
Vesuvius, bright scarlet. 
Worthiana, orange scarlet. 



BELLADONXA LILIES. 



57 



Modern florists' varieties are now offered in distinct shades 
of colour, especially selected for bedding purposes ; these are supplied 
as tubers or as seed, at the will of the customer. They are selected 
for their compact habit and erect flower stems, and they are 
extremely useful in the flower garden in wet summers, as they 
delight in cool, moist conditions that are fatal to a fine show of 
Zonal Geraniums. 



Chapter XVI — BellaUonna fiilies. 

It is gravely urged by those who either do not attempt its 
cultivation or have failed with it, that the beautiful Belladonna 
Lily has one serious failing, inasmuch as it does not produce its 
flowers and leaves simultaneously. If, for the sake of argument, 
we admit this is a failing, then the opposition must grant that, 
after all, it is only a small one. But the true plant lover will 
never allow his enthusiasm to be damped by such a criticism. A. 
native of the Cape of Good Hope, Amaryllis Belladonna is not 
perfectly hardy in the sense that the Daffodils are hardy. 
Throughout the southern counties and in most of the sheltered 
districts of the kingdom it may, however, be successfully grown 
out of doors provided a few points are carefully followed. A 
narrow border, such as is frequently to be found on the south side 
of the dwelling or plant house, will be an ideal site if it is open 
to the sun and sheltered from strong winds. 

Should the soil be poor, as it often is in a position of this 
kind, then it must receive the addition of decayed cow manure, 
while if heavy it must be lightened with leaf mould and coarse 
sand. In either case deep digging is essential a short time 
previous to planting the bulbs. The best time to 23lant is early 
autumn, just after the flowers have faded. Six inches is a suitable 
depth, and a similar distance should separate the bulbs. Winter 
protection must be provided, and it may consist either of strawy 
litter, partially decayed leaves, or dry Bracken, but it must be- 
removed as soon as the new foliage pushes forth in the spring. 
Planted in a border of the kind indicated, the Belladonna Lily is 
too often allowed to suffer from lack of moisture while in full 
growth, and the natural sequence is a poor crop of flowers at the 
end of the summer. Liquid manure applied in late spring and 
early summer will materially assist established bulbs. 

The Belladonna Lily has bright rose coloured flowers ; blanda 
and pallida are pale varieties, and Kewensis and major are larger 
and more richly coloured forms. 



58 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 



Cbapkr XVIL— Calaaiuins, 



Amongst all stove tuberous rooted plauts that are cultivated for 
the beauty of their leafage tlie Caladiums are the most popular, 
and were it not for the fact that strong, moist heat is essential 
they would be found in all small as well as large gardens. The 
leaves vary in size from a diameter of 3 inches in the charming 
argyrites to 15 or 18 inches in candidum and others, while there 
is an intermediate size of which minus erubescens may be cited 
as an example. For the early summer months these plants are 
invaluable for the odd and characteristic air that no others would 
inipurt. 

The propagation is readily effected in spring by division of 
the tubers as shown in the diagram, Fig. 17, p. 59, and the plants 
should have a rich compost comprising 2 parts of fibrous loam, 
1 part of each fibrous peat, decomposed leaf mould, and dried and 
pounded cow manure, with sufficient coarse sand to insure perfect 
porosity. The pots should always stand upon a moist base, and 
at the same time atmospheric moisture with a temperature of 80^ by 
day will be necessary so as to encourage the leaves to push up on 
long, strong foot stalks. Eepotting must always be done early in 
the year, and, except where large specimens for the purpose of 
exhibition are required, 6-incli or 8-inch pots will meet all 
requirements. 

As soon as the foliage begins to show signs of decay, which 
will be soon after midsummer, unless special treatment has been 
accorded, water should be gradually withheld with a view to 
ripening off the tops and maturing the tubers, which call for a 
decided rest every season if they are to continue in good health. 



Selection of Caladiums. 



argyrites (correctly Hum- 
boldtii). greeu and white 



C bar] otte Hoffmann , white 
caiididuni, white. 



Ainarante, red, violet, and 
rose. 



Clio, rose.wliite, andgreeu 
John Peed, red aud green, 
minus erubescens, ciimsou 



Auguste Charpentier, car- 
mine, red, gold, and 
green. 



Oritiamme, red and green. 
Rose Laing, wdiite and 



and green. 



Baron Adolphe de Roth- 



schild, red, cannine, and 



crimson. 



green. 



Silver Cloud, white, green, 



and carmine. 



59 




60 PIOTOBIAL PRACTICAL BULB GEOWING. 



Cbapter XVIII -Calocborn, 

Commonly known as Mariposa Lilies, these are amongst the 
most exquisitely beautiful of all the bulbous plants ; some of 




Fhntn: Cas.^ell (uid Co., Ltd. 

FIG. 18.-CAL0CH0RTUS SPLENDENS. 

(.SVc '}M(JC til.) 



them only develop to perfection when afforded frame treatment, 
but many do equally well in the border or the bed. The species 



HOW TO GROW G ANNAS. 



61 



are fairly numerous, but several are rarely seen in general cultivation. 
There is a strain of C. venustus, known as the Eldorado, that 
comprises many different colours, and in some the basal markings 
on the inner side of the segments are peculiarly refined. This, it 
may be said, is a characteristic of the majority of the species of 
this genus. 

Selection of Calochorti. 



albus, white. 

amen as, ricli piuk. 
'ceruleus, pale blue ; several 
varieties. 

lilacinus, pale purple. 

luteus, yellow ; the 
varieties citriuus and 
concolor are good. 

clavatus, yellow. 



Gunnisonii, white, 

centre. 
Howellii, white, 
pulchellus, yellow. 
Purdjd, white, 
splendens, lilac {see 
venustus, white 

stitution. 



yellow 



p. 60). 
fine con- 



Chapter XIX — Cannas. 

Though there is no question that the beautiful Canna is rapidly 
attaining a place in public favour consistent with its merits, yet 
the plant is even now not appreciated in the same degree as many 
others which it is well qualified to displace. The ease wdth which 
it may be grown, the extreme brightness and beauty of its blossoms, 
and its stately and aristocratic appearance generally are all points 
which should tell strongly in its favour. 

Possibly the size to w^hich it attains is a drawback to its employ- 
ment in very small gardens, but these same gardens often accom- 
; modate a Dahlia, Sunflower, or even Hollyhock, which takes every 
! bit as much room as would a Canna, and which, moreover, has 
no greater claims to distinction. As a back row plant in a wide 
I border, a subject to break up the monotony of a fiat one, a centre 
! for a bed of dwarfer plants, or even as a filler of large beds by 
I itself, the Canna has very few equals, and, all things considered, 
{ no superiors. Too tall, perhaps, for a wdndow box, on a verandah 
' or balcony it is supreme, and even makes a noble ornament in a 
: vase or tub. A dwarf race with beautiful flowers now exists. 

Then, for conservatory, greenhouse, or dwelling-house decoration 
what could be finer than a well-grown Canna or a group of its 
well-flowered specimens ? For halls and corridors it forms a 
[ splendid successor to the Arum Lily while that useful plant is 
. resting, beautifies large fireplaces in a manner far beyond com- 



62 PICTOBIAL FBACTICAL BULB GBOWING. 



parison from ordiii-iry screens, and as an inmate of the fasliionable 
large china or brass vases fills a corner in the drawing-room in a 
manner all its own. 

For gorgeousness of blossom the Canna can give points to 
most of its cono-eners, the Orchid-fiowered section yielding some 
of the most brilliant Howers known. Visitors to the fruit shows at 
the Crystal Palace wdll well recall liow all others of Flora's 
progeny present paled their ineffectual fires before the all-conquering 
Canna, and at the large Chrysantliemum exhibitions its triumph 
over the 'Mum is only in less degree because of the vast dis- 
pro^Dortion of the respective fiow^ers in number 

At one time Canna culture was thought to hold great secrets, 
but all of these — if, indeed, there w^ere any — have now been revealed, 
and the generally accepted conclusion to-day is that the man who 
can grow good Dahlias be equally successful with Cannas. 
In fact, in their pro])agation and general treatment the two can* 
be very conveniently bracketed together, with the single exception, 
perhaps, that the Canna outshines its confrere as a pot plant. Both 
may be stored in a frostproof place during Avinter — giving the 
Canna first choice in the matter of w^armth— and both can be 
propagated by seeds or division in spring. Xay, still further can 
the parallel be carried, for even as the Dahlia is started in heat, 
and its resultant shoots detached and struck ^s cuttings, so in 
like manner can the finest Cannas be grown, provided that a 
piece of the old rootstock accompanies each separated growth. 

Many Cannas are worth growing for their foliage alone, wdiich 
is often a beautiful bronze colour, and in some instances variegated, 
These, however, and indeed all the tall forms, such as those 
comprised in the Orchid-fiowered section, should have a sheltered 
position afforded them, as rough wimis soon spoil the beauty of 
their leaves. The Gladiolus-flowered sorts are dw^arfer and stand 
breezes better ; they are also more suitable for pot culture. 

The beginning of June is quite early enough to bed Cannas 
out, and they are much benefited by a mulching of long manure 
and copious drenchings of water during hot, dry weather. 

Seeds of a good strain yield handsome plants, wdth flowers of 
good size and colour, but anyone w^ishing to obtain the very best 
results w^ould do w^ell to plant named varieties, of which a selection 
is given herewith. 

Selection of Cannas. 

America, scarlet and Italia,, orange scarlet, 

orange. yellow margin. 

Aurore, red. Konigin Charlotte, red, 

Austria, canary, dotted edged gold. 

brown {see jy. 63). Menelik, reddish crimson. 

Capri, salmon scarlet. Madame Crozy, vermilion, 

Duchess of York, yellow, edged gold. 

spotted red. Pandora, red and gold. 

K d u a r d Andre, red, Plato, red, flamed orange. 

spotted yellow. 



A BEAUTIFUL CANNA. 




FIG. 19.-CANNA AUSTRIA. 
{See page 62.) 



64 PIOTOBIAL PEACTIUAL BULB GBOWING. 



Cbapter XX — CWonodoxas, 

The popular name of these most delightful bulbous plants is 
expressive of the period of the year at ^Yhich they flower — Glory 
of the Snow. Beautiful, indeed, are the Chionodoxas, and one cannot 
simulate surprise at their ever-growing popularity. They are most 




FIG. 20.-COLCHICUM AUTUMNALE. 

(-Sec page 05.) 

frequently seen in association with the chaste single Snowdrop, and 
in positions that are wholly congenial to both kinds produce a 
charming picture. The species and varieties are not numerous, and 
those who cultivate them all will find no cause for regret. They are 
propagated both by seeds and offsets. 

Alleuii, violet, very free. Cretica, blue and white, 

graudiliora, violet, large nana, -white, striped lilac, 

and fine. dwarf, rare. 

Liiciliee, blue and white. Sardensis, blue and white. 

Lucilicje alba, white, very Tmolusii, purple, blue, 

choice. and white, late. 



SO^rE GOOD colchicums. 



65 



Cftapter XXI — Colcbicums. 

The popular name of " Autumn Crocuses arose from the close 
resemblance of these flowers to the well-known Crocuses of spring, 
and has the merit of being accurately descriptive, if nothing more. 
They pr^'duce much larger blooms than Crocuses, and differ from 
these again in sending up their flowers in autumn and the bold 
leafage in spring. 

Selection of Colcliicums. 

autumiiale, purple. Xii- Byzantiiiiim. purple rose. 

merous varieties, inclucl- Sibthorpii, white, spotted 

ing double white, purple, purple. 

rose and striped {see p. 6^) speciosura, puqilish rose. 

Bornmiilleri, purple and variegatum, white, spotted 

white. lilac. 



Cbapter XXn.— Crinums. 

Foremost though they be among the many fine members of the 
. great Amaryllis family, it is an unpleasant fact that Crinums are 
not the plants for everybody. Beautiful in flower, stately in habit, 
and handsome in foliage, it is little wonder the owner of small 
■■ glass structures and a garden whose soil is heavy and cold sadly 
' shakes his head as he passes some splendid specimen in the 
^ more favoured garden of a neighbour. 

For garden purposes Crinums can be divided into three sections, 
i.e. those requiring a stove temperature, those which succeed in a 
i greenhouse, and the few that thrive in the open, and are, in fact, 
i hardy in sheltered places. The two former are grown in large pots 
j or tubs, in a compost of sound loam and peat, two parts of the 
former to one of the latter, with the addition of sufficient sharp 
sand to keep the whole porous. Crinums love plenty of water 
when growing and flowering, but ^^'ith rare exceptions they abhor 
stagnant moisture. As the bulbs are large, the pots for their 
I accommodation must of necessity be large too, and they must be 
' efifectively drained. Fortunately Crinums do not need re-jDotting 
i every year after they reach a flowering size, but it is a good plan 

' E 



66 



riCTOEIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWIXG. 



to scrape off the top soil and give an annual top-dressing 
of fresh, rich soil ; liciuid manure is valuable to well established 
plants. In other respects the different requirements of the two 
sections are only questions of heat and moisture. A free use of 
the syringe throughout the summer, and frequent sponging of the 
foliage to ensure cleanliness, are two important items in Crinum 
culture. 

Coming; to those that have proved hardy in many parts of the 
kingdom, it is vvorth Avhile remembering that bitmg winds and 
frost following wet weather are the chief causes of trouble, for 
while the bulbs are hardy enough the large leaves are not infre- 
quently damaged, and the plant is thereby weakened to the 
extent of materially reducing the crop of bloom. For this division 
a sunny border, sheltered from strong vrinp\s, is desirable as a 
position ; and the soil should be deep and rich, without containing 
any fresh manure ; it must also be retentive of moisture, but not 
in any sense approaching stagnation. If the selected spot is ia 
front of a stove or greenhouse, the chances of success are much 
improved. Plant the bulbs not less than 8 inches deep. 



Selection of Crinums. 



amabile, rose purple; 
stove. 

Americauum, white, frag- 
rant ; greenhouse or 
hardy. 

augustum, red : stove. 

campanula turn, red 
purple ; greenhouse. 

erubescens, white and 
purple ; stove. 

giganteum, ivory white, 
very sweet scented ; 
stove. 



Kirkii, white, striped red ; 
stove. 

longif olium (C a p e n s e) , 
pink ; hardy. There is 
also a white form. 

Moorei. rose ; greenhouse 
or hardy. 

Powellii, rose ; hardy, or 
greenhouse in cold lo- 
caUties. There are fine 
white and red varieties 
of this handsome hybrid. 



Chapter XXI IK— Crocuses. 

There are among gardeners many who study and delight in 
l)ird life, doing all in their power to preserve our feathered friends. 
There is, however, one bird against wliich we all wage incessant 
warfare, especially in the spring, when the yellow Crocuses are m 
flower. The ubiquitous sparrow^ is the garclener's most inveterate 
enemj^, for of good in the garden he cToes little or none, while 
of irreparable damage he annually does much. Sparrows strip our 
yellow Crocuses of their petals. 

Notwithstanding the possibility of much of the beauty being 
destroyed by these marauders, it is indefensible to omit Crocuses 



BEAUTIFUL SPECIES OF G BOG US. 



67 



from the garden. In beds, in borders, or in grass they are 
invaluable, and the grower must take such steps as he considers 
wise to prevent or mitigate the po.^siliie damage. 

Selection of Dutch Crocuses. 

Albion, striped. Mont Blanc, pure white. 

*ATalanche, pure white. Prince Albert, dark blue. 

Celestial, blue, purpurea grandiflora, rich 

Gladiator, dark blue. purple. 

John Bright, intense blue. *Sir Walter Scott, lilac 

*Golden Yellow, superb. striped. 

*King of the Blues, rich Vulcan, very deep purple. 

purple blue. White Pearl, pure white. 
La Majestueuse, lilac 

stri^^ed. 

Pour of the best are marked b}^ an asterisk. 

The varieties embodied in the above list may, if needed, 
be grown in pots, though where the most striking effects are 
required they may be advantageously planted in beds, for which 
purpose, however, those described as Large Yellow, Large Blue, 
Large White, Large Striped, and Cloth of Gold are generally 
employed with satisfactory results. The corms of these can be 
purchased so remarkably cheaply that they may be planted in 
thousands. 

Species of Crocuses, 

As in the case of Tulips, so in Crocuses ; the species have a 
refined style of beauty, which the Dutch varieties can never give, 
and are in every way worthy of a hundredfold more attention 
than is at present accorded to them. Apart from this, by making 
a judicious choice, flowers may be had in abundance in August, 
when the Dutch sorts have long since gone to rest. It will be 
observed that the flowers of many species are smaller than the 
Dutch varieties, and the corms may, therefore, be planted rather 
closer. 

Selections of Species. 

Spring Jloivering. Autumn Jiowcring, 

aureus, orange yellow. Clusii, purple. 

Balansse, oiauge, feathered Hadriaticus, white. 

mahogany. longiflorus, lilac purple, 

biflorus, white. nudiflorus, purple, 

chrysanthus, orauge. pulchellus, blue. 

Danfordige, pale yellow. sativus, piu'ple. 

rieicheri, white, feathered Scharojanii, richest golden 

purple. yellow. 

Garganicus, yellow. speciosus, lilac purple. 

Imperati, exterior buff. Tournefortii, lilac, feath- 

Sieberi, lilac. ered purple. 
Tommasinianus, lavender, 
vernus, white to purple. . 
versicolcr, purple striped. 

Crown Imijerials.— /S'ee Fiutillaria. 



68 PIGTOEIAL PSACTWAL BULB GEOWISG. 



Cbapter XXSV.— Cpdanuns, 

These are undoubtedly amongst the most interesting plants 
tliat we can grow in our gardens. The hardy species have not 
the size of those ^yhich are so hirgely cultivated in pots in every 
greenhouse, but in their marked refinement, the charming leafage, 
the quaint elegance of the flowers, and in their fragrance, they 
possess recommendations entitling them to all the attention it is 
possible to accord. The old-fashioned Cyclamen Persicum Avas 
decidedly perfumed, and while some of the modern varieties have 
this attribute, it is in a much less pronounced foim, having been 
worked out in the process of evolution. This is regrettable, as 
fragrance in any flower must enhance its interest and charm. 

The hardy species and varieties form delightful colonies in the 
rock garden, and those especially which bloom very early in the 
year are practically indispensable, as their places cannot be filled 
by any other kind of plants that will flourish in our gardens. 
They may be u^ed in association with various plants, but much 
care is necessary in this direction, as the foliage of the Cyclamens 
alone is an ornament and must on no account be smothered by 
coarser growing subjects. 



Selections of Cyclamens. 

For all practical purposes the greenhouse section is confined 
to C. Persicum in considerable variet}^, including the normal as 
well as the large-flowered form, usually designated grandinorum 
because it has bolder blooms. In the former division we have 
plenty of range as regards colour and superbl}^ marbled leafage, 
while in the latter we have glorious flowers, but less conspicuously 
beautiful foliage. Almost all our leading houses ofler named 
sorts, and no particularly useful purpose would be served by 
their enumeration here. Excellent results may be secured by 
purchasing mixed seeds^ (keeping the two divisions separate, of 
course), as tliese are generally saved from the finest colours. 



Hardy Cyclamens. 

Atkiusii, pui-ple and white. Xeapolitaiium. red and 
Coura, purple. white. 
Europeum, reddisli purple. liederifoliuni. purple. 
Ibericum, red. repaudum, crimson. 

vernum, dark red. 



* A valuable practical illustration dealing with Cyclamen propagation will 
be found on page 144 of "Pictorial Practical Gardening." 



HOW TO DIVIDE DAFFODILS. 



69 



Chapter XXV.— Daffodils. 

Classification and Selection. 

The montli of April is the month of Daffodils as far as outdoor 
gardening is concerned, and much difficulty T^'ould be experienced in 




FIG. 2i.-H0W TO DIVIDE DAFFODILS. 



A, parent bulb of Sir Watkin. 
■ B, offsets two years from planting. 

I C, parent and offsets divided and planted. 

I finding any garden ^vortliy the name in which the golden flower 
is not represented. 



70 



PICTORIAL PEACTICAL BriB GBOWIXG. 



Apart from considerations of garden adornment. Daffodils have 
a value for decorative purposes indoors, where, if given fresh water 
each day, they last for a week, or even more, in fine condition. Of 
course, when they are put into rooms whose atmosphere is laden with 
the fumes of gas the blooms are much shorter lived. 

Classification is the order of the day amongst all flowers, and 
fortunately with Narcissi the dividing lines are so sharply defined 
that they are easily understood. Daffodils in this respect differ 
substantially from other flowers, in whose divisioDs the classifiers 
themselves have the utmost diflicalty in finding the points. 

The separation of the Daffodils into sections is governed by easy 
natural laws into large, medium, and small trumpet varieties. The 
botanist would not express himself in such terms as these, but 
would say Magni-Coronati, Medio-Coronati, and Parvi-Coronati, 
respectively. Happily, these terms are readily Anglicised, and the 
average Board school youth, in the profundity of his Latin knowledge, 
would be readilj^ ecpial to the task. To illustrate the three sections in 
the order given, Emperor, Sir AYatkin, and poetic us may be mentioned. 

The variations in form amongst Daffodils are so great that sub- 
sections might be originated: indeed, some attempt has been made 
in this direction, but except where the governing factor has been 
botanical success has not been great. AVere it not for the ^'aried 
sizes and shapes, the popularity of the Daffodil would soon start 
on the down grade, for the range of colouration is limit :d. There 
are yellows in varying shades, white, and in some of the small and 
medium cupped flowers rich orange and red. 

It would be comparatively simple to secure from two dozen 
judiciously selected varieties praccically all the tones of colour, 
unless one sought for infinitesimal differences : but were one bound 
down in such a way as this, the loss in form and size would be so 
great that, except for the smallest gardens, the collection would be 
incomplete, 

Hapi:)ily, too, for the maintenance of interest in the Xarcissus 
family, there is a beautiful latitude in price. In fact, therf are 
indications that the thirst for unirpie varieties, as in Orchids 
of the present day and the Tulip mania ot a century or so back, 
is growing, and that the enthusiast is prepared to pay any amount 
provided that he can get something which his neighbour does not 
possess. 

Before niaking his selections the would-be champion should 
examine his bank book and decide to what limits he can go. AVe 
can find plenty of varieties ranging from 12 to 18 guineas a 
bulb ; we can go still farther and pay 50 guineas for some highly 
extolled novelty, or we can liave 1,000 sound flowering bulbs for as 
small a sum as one and a half guinea. " Common ! someone may 
say. Yes ; but if planted in the grass in the wild garden or the 
"woodland they will make a lovely display. 

One might regard the purchase of 20-guinea bulbs as an 
investment, but with men like the Rev. G. H. Engleheart at work it 



SELFCTIOXS OF DAFFODILS. 



71 



is precarious, as by the time one has raised a stock to give liim 
ceut. per cent, interest, this genius in Dalfoclil development may 
have raised something infinitely superior, and the gold mine turn 
out a loss. 

Selections of Large Trumpet Varieties. 

The factor governing the inclusion of any variety in this section 
is that the corona, crown, or trumpet— call it which you will — is as 
lono^ as, or longer than, the segments of the perianth. Five sub- 
sections are readily instituted, namely, (1) Bulbocodium, which is 
very distinct in having a trumpet that completely overshadows the 
segments of the perianth ; (2) yellow flowered varieties ; (3) bicolor 
varieties; (4) sulphur and white varieties; and (5) double varieties. 

Bulbocodium— Hoop Petticoat. — The type variety of this section 
is pure yellow, and there are sulphur, white, and yellow forms, 
all ranging in height from 4 to 6 inches, and all particularly 
effective for pot culture. The best are the type, citrinus, and 
monophylla. 

Yellow Trumpets. — A very handsome division, comprising 
some of the noblest Daffodils of our gardens. 

abscissus. major. 
Alma (see p. 76). maximiis. 
Ard Rigli, minimus. 
Captain Xelson. minor, 
cyclamineus. M. J. Berkeley, 

c. major. nanus. 
Emperur. obvallaris. 
Glory of Leyclen. Pseudo Xarcissua 

Golden Spur. (Lent Lily). 

Henry Irving. P. E. Barr.' 

Johnstoni Queen of spurius. 
SjDain. 

^ Abscissus has sulphur segments and a yellow trumpet, but its 
chief value is in its late flowering and its ready adaptability to 
culture in grass. 

Xarcissus cyclamineus and its variety major are amongst the 
gems of the family. They are somewhat diflicult to establish, but 
are worth any trouble. If a semi-shaded situation at the foot of a 
rockery can be afforded, and the soil is mainly good loam, with 
some leaf mould and sand, disappointment is not very likely to 
accrue. 

Biccjlor Varieties.— "Wix^ division is peculiarly rich in fine 
varieties, whose period of flowering is very extended. The trumpet 
may be ^ any shade of yellow, and the segments of the perianth 
pure white, or as nearly so as possible. 

' Cygnet {see p. 77). I\Iadame Plemp. 

Dean Herbert. Mrs. Walter AYare. 

Empress. Mrs. Morland Cros- 
Grandee (late). field, 

Horsefieldii (early^\ princeps. 

J. B. M. Camm. Scoticus. 

John Davidson, Victoria. 



FIGTOniAL PRAGTIGAL BULB GBOWim. 




DEPTH OF T LAN TING DAFFODILS. 




nCTOEIAL FEACTICAL BVLB GBQjriXG. 




THE IXCOMPAnABILIS SECTION, 



75 



Sulphur and White Yari<^fie^.—lA\(i cliaracteristic feature of 
this division is refinement. Many of the varieties carry the flowers 
in a drooping manner, and are very graceful. They can scarcely be 
termed suitable for town gardens, as their exquisite delicacy of 
colour renders them very liable to become soiled by the impurities of 
the atmosphere. In the country, where their beauty is unlikely 
to be marred, they are superb. 



Double Varieties. — The large trumpeted section of the 
Xarcissus family does not afford many double varieties. The most 
valuable is the common double Datfodil, N. Telamonius plenus, 
which is unexcelled for naturalisation in grass, and is one of the 
most satisfactory for pot culture. 



Large Trumpet Daffodils for Pots. — Broadly speaking, 
all the varieties that have been enumerated succeed under pot 
culture as long as this is understood to mean veiy gentle advance- 
ment into Hower. Where, how^ever, decided measures are to be 
adopted to induce early flowering, those varieties carrying the 
bud very high up towards the neck in the dormant bulbs wuU 
be found the most satisfactmy. As a single variety possessing this 
peculiarity in a marked degree, the beautiful bicolor Victoria may be 
noted, and as a double the old Telamonius plenus. Many complaints 
of Daffodils failing under forcing may be traced to the fact that 
unsuitable varieties have been chosen, and no regard has been had 
for the rule of guidance provided in the position of the flower 
in tlie bulb. 

The Iiicomparabilis Section.— The governing characteristics 
of this most charming section is that the corona or crown shall 
be half as long as the segments of the perianth. Some modification 
of this standard is observable in a few varieties, in which the cup 
is approximately three-Cjuarters the length of the perianth segments. 

The labours of the hybridist in this division have been crowned 
by some remarkable results, Mr. Engleheart particularly having 
given us some hybrids and secondary hybrids of the highest 
excellence. These efforts have not been directed so much to 
increasing the bulk of the flower as to improving its contour 
and substance, and at the same time enriching the colour. As 
typifying these points the brilliant Lucifer may be mentioned. It 
has elegance of form, richness of colour, and such substance as will 



C. W. Cowan. 
L'Iniioceiice. 
Madame de Graaff, 
moschatus. 



albicans, 
cernuus. 



Mrs. J". B. M. Camm. 
Mrs. Vincent, 
pallidus j)recox. 
tortuosus. 
W. P. Milner. 
William G-oldring. 



capax plenus. 
cernuus plenus. 
minor plenus. 



plenissimus. 
Sc otic us plenus. 
Telamonius plenus. 



PIGTOniAL FR ACTIO AL BULB GROWIXG. 




JSIARGISSUS CYGNET, 




FIG. 26. -NARCISSUS CYGNET. 

{See page 71.) 



78 PICTORIAL PPvAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



allow it to be kept fresh in water about twice as long as any 
other variet}^ 

Contrary to general supposition, which accords specific rank to 
Incomparabilis, this is really of hybrid origin, the parentage, as 
in the Barrii section, to which attention will presently be called, 
being yellow trumpet Daffodils and IsTarcissus poeticus. 

Selection of Incomparahitis varieties. 

* Autocrat. *Qiieen Bess (very early). 
*Beauty. Queen Sophia. 

C: J. Backhouse. semi-partitus. 

Commander. *Sir Watkin (the noblest 

* Cynosure. of the section). 
George Nicholson. ^Stella. 
^Gwyther. "^Stella superba. 
*King of the Xetherlands. Strongbow {see p. 79). 
Mabel Cowan (late). *Titan. 

Princess Mary. 

From the vigour of habit which enables them to carry their flowers on 
long, stout stems, and the beauty of their colouration, those marked * are 
peculiarly adapted for naturalisation in grass and for massing in nursery beds 
for cutting. For the former purpose, too, the subjoined doubles are suitable, 
though they have scarcely the grace of the singles. 

DouUe forms of Incornparahilis. 

Butter and Eggs. Eggs and Bacon (Orange 

Codlins and Cream (Suli^hur Phoenix) . 

Phoenix). Golden Phoenix (very fine). 

The Leedsii Section. — Belonging to the botanical division 
known as medio-coronati, and having similar distinguishing 
characteristics as to size as the Incomparabilis, the Leedsii 
varieties must have the corona or cup either pure white or soft 
lemon, passing to white with age. This section is artificial, having 
white trumpet Daffodils and poeticus as its parents. If the entire 
family be considered in sections, each complete in itself, it will 
be seen that in the Leedsii lies the essence of refinement. That 
individuals from each might be chosen against which no word 
could be raised none will dispute, but the Leedsii division may be 
regarded as a whole, and no really coarse member will be 
discovered, though some will, of course, be more refined than others. 

Selection of Leedsii varieties. 

amabilis. Madge Matthew. 

Beatrice. *M. Magdaline de Graaff. 

*Duchess of Brabant. ^Miunie Hume. 

*Duchess of Westminster. Modesty. 

*Fanny Mason. *Mrs. Langtry. 

Gem. Palmerston (late). 

* Grand Duchess (early). Princess of Wales. 
*Katherine Si)urrell. 

* See note at foot of Incomparabilis, 



STROXGBOW. 



79 




FIG. 27. -NARCISSUS STRONGBOW 

(See ixtrje TS.) 



80 



PICTORIAL FRAG TIG AL BULB GROWING. 



The Barrii Section. — The relationship between this section 
and Incomparabilis is intimate, as both are of the same origin, 
but the distinguishing characters show a marked difference. To 
be a Barrii the segments of tbe perianth must be twice or more 
the length of the short, expanded corona or crown. 

If this division were limited to one variety only, and this ^vas 
the now comparatively aged conspicuus, it might stiJl be said to be 
one of the most important. For massing in the border, the bed, 
or in grass, this variety has no superior, while for cutting it is 
superb. Happily, too, it is so low in price that it is within the 
means of everyone. 



conspicuus. 
Crown Prince. 
Cupid (very late). 
Flora Wilson. 
Maurice Yilinorin. 



Selection of Barrii vctrieties. 

Miriam Barton. 
Mrs. C. Bowley. 
Orphee. 
Sensation. 



It may be noted in respect of the Incomparabilis, Leedsii, and 
Barrii sections that the colour, especially of the margin of the 
corona, varies with the period of flowering and with the age of 
the flower. For example, richly edged varieties under pot 
culture are apt to come slightly paler under the unnatural 
conditions of growth. Again, many of these lose colour rapidly 
under the fierce rays of the sun, and for cutting should be secured 
at about the three-quarter expanded state of the bud, when all the 
intensity is retained without loss to either the size or the substance 
of the bloom. 

The Humei Section, — To all intents and purposes this section 
is limited to two varieties, whose flowers are of a pronouncedly 
nodding character. They make up in interest and charm, both 
for border culture and naturalisation, what the section lacks in 
numbers. 

Hume's concolor. Hume's Giant. 



Selection of Backhousei 

lively small section, but one 
dwarfed, stout, trumpet shaped 
distinct but also very desirable. 



Varieties, — This is a compara- 
whose marked characteristic — a 
corona— makes it not only very 



Backhousei. William Wilks. 

Border Maid. Wolley Dod. 

Joseph Lakin. 



Selection of Nelsoni Varieties.— The segments of the 
perianth in this section are of much substance and pure white, 
while the corona is somewhat goblet shaped, and usually of great 
beauty. Every variety is suitable for any form of outdoor culture, 



SOME OF THE SMALLER NARGISSL 



81 



and for growing in pots tbeir striking though refined character 
makes them very desirable. 

aurantius. pulchellus. 

major. Stanley. 

Mrs. Backhouse. William Backhouse. 

Selection of Bernardi Varieties. — This section makes up in 
beauty and interest what it lacks in number-^. Like many of our 
beautiful Narcissi the type comes from the Pyrenees, where it is 
found as a natural hybrid, and it was the veteran Peter Barr who 
proved the parentage to be N. poeticus and N. abscissus. Need- 
less to say, the flower is of the most refined character. 

Bernard!. Fire Glow (new and expen- 

H. E. Buxton. sive). 

Selection of tridymus Varieties.— From the foregoing sec- 
tion that of tridymus difl'ers in many respects, but the distinction 
is now raised because it is a garden instead of a natural hybrid. 
The parents were a large trumpet variety and a form of Narcissus 
Tazetta (Polyanthus Narcissus), and from the latter it inherits the 
propensity to produce two or three flow^ered scapes and a sweet 
perfume. 

A. Rawson. St. Patrick (expensive). 

Cloth of Gold (expen- S. A. de Graaff. 

sive) . The Twins (new and expen- 

Miss White. • sive). 

Selection of triandrus Varieties. — The popular name that 
has been accorded to these Dafl'odils is Angels' Tears, and its 
peculiar appropriateness is not fully realised until the delightful 
flowers are seen in some congenial spot whose soil is gritty loam, 
well drained and moderately heavily shaded. The plants rarely 
exceed 7 inches in height, and the mode of carrying the flowers 
on the stem has given rise to another favourite appellation- 
Cyclamen flowered Narcissus. 

albus. concolor. 
calathinus. " pulchellus. 

Selection of odorus Varieties. — In this small section we 
find the fragrant Jonquils, whose flowers sell in their tens of 
thousands in the big markets of the country. They may be planted 
in clumps in borders, or cultivated in pots^ but the ideal place is 
in the grass towards the margins of streams or lakes, where their 
Rush-like leafage makes them singularly appropriate, apart from 
j the charming yellow blooms. 

odorus (the Camper- odorus plenus. 

nelle Jonquil). Campernelli plenus (rare 

heminalis rugulosus. and expensive). 

Rush-leaved Daffodils.— Apart from the Jonquils, there are 
at least three Rush-leaved Dafl'odils that are very charming. They 



82 PICTOBIAL PRACTICAL BULB CBOWIXG. 

are searcel}^ suitable for naturalisation, however, as tlie fiowers are 
very small ; indeed, juncifolius is best in pots : it grows about 
4 inches in height, and is eliective in 3- or 4-inch pots. Gracilis 
exceeds 1 foot in height, and produces three or five liowered scape>, 
which are charming in pots or in a suitable position in the tiov, er 




FIG. 28.-NARCISSUS POETICUS ORNATUS. 

J.':/. ^3.) 

garden. Tije blooms are very late in expanding. The slender 
straw coloured Daffodil tenuiur grows about 9 inches high, and 
carries several small flowers on a stem. The first named of this 
trio belongs to the Medio coronati, and the second and third 
named to the Parvi-coronati section, Avhich is now to be dealt with. 

The True Narcissi. — To the section div-tinguished by Baker 
as l^arvi-coroiiati belongs the distinction of having within its fold 



TEE VOETS NARCISSUS, 



83 



the small crowned Daffodils, or true Xarcissi, which is typified 
in poeticus. The governing characteristic is that the segments of 
the perianth shall be more than twice as long as the crown or 
corona, which is usually very flattened or expanded. 

Selection of Burbidgei Varieties. — The fanciful name of 
Star Narcissi has been given to the several varieties of the 
Burbidgei section, wdiose origin is due to a cross between Incom- 
parabilis and poeticus. They are extremely free flowering, and 
their graceful habit makes them admirable for every form of 
culture to which Daffodils are subjected. Again, they are very 
valuable for all purposes of decoration, in w^hicli respect they 
resemble the forms of poeticus. 

Burbidgei John Bain. 

Agnes Barr. Little Dii'k. 

Baroness Heath. Model. 

Ellen Barr. The Pet. 

Falstaff. Vanessa. 

Selection of poeticus Varieties. — It one were able to take a 
plebiscite of the Daffodil lovers throughout the country, including 
those who buy their penny and twopenny bunches of flowers, it 
is more than probable that the place of honour w^ould be accorded 
to the chaste Poets Xarcissus, w^hich is beloved of everybody. 
Make a judicious selection, and you have one of the finest 
Dafl'odils for forcing that it is possible to procure ; grow them by 
hundreds in the garden and by thousands in the grass of the 
woodland, and their beautiful flowers will never fatigue the eye. 
Xarcissus poeticus divides naturally into early and late flowering 
sections, and the members of the former only are amenable to 
forcing treatment, for -which the finest of all is ornatus. 

Ero'I^/. 

Almira grandiHoriis. precox grandiflorus. 

ornatus {see p. 82). poetarum. 

Late. 

Marvel. poeticus of LimiEeus. 

poeticus (the old Phea- Yerbanensis, 
sant's Eye). 

N. poeticus plenus is usually called the Gardenia flowered 
Narcissus, alike for its fragrance and the build of the flowers. 
Unfortunately, the buds are apt to come blind, two of the things 
predisposing to this being late planting and a very dry, hot position. 

Selection of Tazetta.— From a garden aspect, the Tazetta 
section — or, as it is almost invariably termed, the Polyanthus 
section — owes its popularity to Dutch raised varieties, wdiose 
value lies in their adaptability to pot culture. The following 
are, however, thoroughly worthy of inclusion : — 

Hermione citrina. intermedins major. 

Ilermione ^lediterranea. intermedius Simset» 



84 



PICTORIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GIIOWIXG. 



Bathurst. 
Bazelmau Major. 
Double Bcman. 
Gloriosa. 

Grand MoDarque. 
Her Majesty. 
Jaune Sui^reme. 



Dutch Varieties. 

Maestro. 



Paper White and its 



varieties. 
Queen of tlie Netherlands. 
Soleii d'Or. 
States General 
White Pearl. 



The most useful of these for forcing are Paper White, in two 
or three varieties, and Double Roman, all pure white and 
extremely fioriferous. 

Interesting Small- cupped Daffodils. —In addition to those 
to which attention has been called, there are several species 
that are extremely interesting, though they may not possess 
high merit as florist's flowers. Biflorus, the Primrose Peerless 
Daffodil, is well know^n and much admired, as also are Jon- 
quilla and its double form, both of which are delightfully 
fragrant. The Jonquils are more useful for pot culture than 
for outdoors, wdiere, if planted, they must have a warm posi- 
tion, in which they can receive winter protection. Schizanthes 
orientalis is bunch fiow^ered, and growls 14 inches in height ; 
wdiile the rare little serotinus carries its flowers on slender 
stems in autumn. 



Except in occasional instances, the rarer varieties have 
been excluded from the foregoing selections, as the stock being 
very limited makes them exceedingly expensive to procure. 
Many of these have been raised by the Rev. G. H. Engieheart, 
Mr. J. W. Barr, the Rev. Eugene Bourne, and Mr. Backhouse ; 
wdiile a few^ have come to us from Holland. To those who 
aspire to the dignity of being amongst the foremost specialists 
in Daffodil land some of the novelties are essential, but it 
must be understood that the purse should have long strings 
if half a dozen or a dozen are w^anted. 

There can be no question as to the magnificence of such as 
Peter Barr, Weardale Perfection, Monarch, Big Ben, Lord 
Roberts, Duke of Bedford, and King Alfred ; or of the striking 
beauty of Albatross, Border Maid, Cassandra, Una, Egret, 
Lucifer, Maggie May, Sceptre, Seagull, and White Queen, but 
one bulb of each of the seventeen enumerated would involve 
an expenditure of upwards of 150 guineas at the prices quoted 
in Barr's catalogue. The superb white Ajax Peter Barr heads 
the list w-ith 50 guineas, wdiich must surely be a record for a 
single Daffodil bulb, in this or any other country. 



Just as there are Daffodils wdiose cost is so great as to 
allow of their culture only by the favoured few, so are there 



Hare and Expensive Daffodils. 



Abundant and Cheap Daffodils. 



DAFFODILS FOR EOCKWORK. 



85 



Daffodils which are so cheap that they come within the scope ol 
an^^one having a garden. But strictly speaking, it is not for 
the home garden, often of severely limited extent, that low 
priced varieties are required, because in this case the re- 
stricted numbers necessary do not involve a great outlay, 
except under special circumstances. It is those who wish to 
furnish areas of grass in lawns, wild gardens, woodland walks, 
and grassy meadows, demanding thousands of bulbs, that look 
for those which will make the best display for the lowest 
initial cost. Some excellent varieties are: — ■ 

Barrii conspicuus. Henry Irving. 

Johnstoni Queen of odorus. 

Spain. princeps. 

pallidus precox. Telamonius plcnus 

Horsefieldii. John Bain, 

poeticus. Emperor, 

poeticus ornatus. Palmerston. 

obvallaris. abscissus. 

Sir Watkin. Stella. 

Burbidgei. AY. P. Milner. 

Daffodils for Rock Gardens. 

i^roadly speaking, any Daffodil that Nourishes in the border 
will thrive in the rock garden, but the wise worker invariably 
cuts his coat according to his cloth, and rather selects his 
varieties according to his rockwork. In rock gardens of con- 
siderable extent, such as are found in a few places, situations 
can be found for representatives of the several sections of the 
Narcissus family, but in small rockeries only those that make 
low growth, and will therefore be in harmony with their neigh- 
bours, ought to be chosen. It will frequently be found that 
varieties which make little or no progress in the general border 
will flourish amazingly in the rockery, for the simple reason 
that here a special soil may be provided^ if desirable, and a 
position can be chosen that ensures partial shelter from the 
sun. Again, in rockeries the perfection of drainage is readily 
ensured, and protective material can be applied in winter if 
necessary. Some of the best for rockwork are: — 

cyclamineus. nanus, 

cyclamineiis major. Bulbocodium (Hoop Pet- 
juucifolius. ticoat) in variety. 

- The Sweet Scented triandrus albus (Angel's 
Jonquil. Tears), 

minor, Macleaii. 

minimus. moscliatus 

Daffodils for Pots. 

One occasionally hears it said that the varieties of Daffo- 
dils required for pot culture must be chosen with the greatest 
care, but as a mater of fact any sort one likes to put in pots 
and treat properly wiW grow and flower satisfactorily. 



86 PIOTORIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



CDapter XXVI — DaDlias* 

We liear tlie hypercritical person saying that it is ciuite wrong to 
include Dalilias in this series of articles, as their roots are not bulbs 
at all, but tubers. This is, of course, perfectly true, but it is also 
beyond refutation that to the amateur the differences between 
bulbs, tubers, and corms are hazily understood, and those who do 
comprehend them admit that it is the Howers they ^vant, and 
wdiether they are produced from this form of root or that does not 
mrdve an iota of difrerence. The fact that the portion of the stem ot 
their Dahlias which is buried beneath the soil swells up and is 
thenceforth called a tuber has small interest to them in comparison 
with the best methods to induce the plants to bring flowers to 
perfection, either for their own enjoyment in the garden or for 
exhibition. 

Both as an exhibition and a garden flower the Dahlia has seen 
many changes, and has probably fluctuated more in. general esteem 
than any of our hardy or half-hardy plants. During the days of 
the rage for formality in the garden, as in everything else, the 
Show and Fancy Dahlias had an extraordinary vogue, and there 
were, gatherings in their honour from one end of the country to 
the other. Then came the inevitable change in fashion, and the 
supremacy of the Dahlia had a rude shaking. Again there came the 
rise and the fall, until now we And the family at a height of popularity 
above which it is not likely to rise very much, and from which it is 
scarcely probaV>le that it will fall. 

It may, we think, be safely said that the present position on a 
thoroughly firm basis is largely due to the development of the 
Cactus section, which provides a flower of brilliant be aity without 
the severe formality of the older florists" type. In it we have an 
essentially garden flower as well as an exhibition one ; hence its 
liigh position in public esteem at the present da}^, when the demand 
for beauty in the garden is greater than it ever was before. To a 
smaller degree but still worthy of recognition in a good work, the 
pojiularity is owing to the inception of the charming ^' Fancy singles 
wliicli were raised in the first place by the late ^Iv. T. W. Girdlestone ; 
they are floriferous, and there are several exijuislte colours amongst 
them. 

Purely for garden adornment, there are many people who hold to 
tlie opinion tliat it is impo.ssible to find a section that can comi^ete 
with the small J^ompons, wliose freedom of flowering is little short 
of marvellous. It is raised against them by their detractors that 
they are equally as formal as the Show and Fancy types; but 



DAHLIA EVA. 



87 




From a photo supplied by J. Stredv:icl: and Son. 

FIG. 29.-WHITE CACTUS DAHLIA EVA. 

(See 'page 89. ) 



bS PICTOUIAL FRAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 




Photo : Cassell and Co., Ltd. 

FIG. 30.- YELLOW CACTUS DAHLIA MRS. CASTLE. 

{See page 90.) 



8ELHGTI0NS OF DAKLTAS. 



89 



while this cannot be disputed, it must be granted that their 
floriferousness takes oft' from the stiffness to a very large extent. 

One can feel nothing but pleasure that every section lias its 
adherents, as there is room in our gardens for them all, and it 
would be a thousand pities if either of them was allowed to die 
out. So long as they all have their keen partisans, so long will 
they be widely grown and highly appreciated. As to their value in 
the garden it were an impossibility to speak too generously, for 
from the middle of August until the end of September, and often 
much later, the gardens of England would be bare indeed did 
they not contain a considerable quantity of Dahlias. 

Fortunately they are plants of the small as well as of the large 
garden, and many of us have seen blooms in the cottagers' enclosures 
that would in no sense have been out of place in any exhibition in 
the country. In numbers they could not have competed with 
those of a Walker, a Mortimer, a West, a Turner, or a Keynes, but 
individual examples there were whose inclusion in a stand from 
either of these sources would have brought no disgrace thereto. 



Selections of Dahlias. 



Twelve Show Varieties, 
Colonist, chocolate and 

fawn. 
Dr. Keynes, rich buff. 
Duchess of York, lemon, 

edged pink. 
J. T. West, yellow edged 

purple. 
John Walker, white. 
Maud Fellowes, pink, 

shaded purple. 
Mrs. Gladstone, paleT3lush. 
Mrs. Langtry, cream and 

crimson. 
R. T. Rawlings, clear 

yellow. 
Victor, dark maroon. 
William Powell, primrose. 
Wm. Rawlings, crimson 

purple. 

Twelve Fancy Varieties. 
Buffalo Bill, buff, striped 

vermilion. 
' Dorothy, fawn and 

maroon. 
Duchess of Albany, orange 

and crimson. 
Emin Pasha, yellow, 

striped crimson. 
Frank Pearce, rose, striped 

crimson. 
Goldsmith, yellow, striped 

crimson. 



Fancy Varieties, con- 
tinued. 
Matthew Campbell, buff 

and crimson. 
Mrs. J. Downie, orange 

and scarlet. 
Mrs. Saunders, yellow and 

white. 

Rev. J. B. M. Camm, 

yellow and red. 
T. W. Girdlestone, lilac, 

striped maroon. 
Watchman , yellow, striped 

crimson. 

Tiuenty - Jour Cactus 
Varieties. 

Ajax, orange and buff. 

Alpha, white, flaked 
purple. 

Britannia, salmon, shaded 
apricot. 

Clara G. Stredwick, 
salmon, shaded yellow. 

Cornucopia, reddish sal- 
mon. 

Eva, white {see p. 87). 
Gabriel, crimson, tipped 
white. 

Galliard, crimson scarlet. 
Island Queen [see p. 91). 
J. H. Jackson, maroon. 
J. W. AVilkinson, rosy 
crimson. 



90 FiCTOElAL TEACTIGAL BULB GROWINO, 



Cactus Dahlias, con- 
tinued. 
J. Weir Fife, purplish 

crimson. 
Lord Roberts, ivory vvliite 
Mrs. Carter Page, deep 

crimson. 
Mrs. Castle, yellow {see 

p. 88). 

Mrs. Edward Mawley, 

clear yellow. 
Mrs. J". J. Crowe, canary 

yellow. 
Mrs. Winstanley, scarlet 

shading to yellow. 
P. W. Tulloch, salmon 

tinted purple. 
Prince of Yellows, deep 

yellow. 
Ringdove, pinkish fawn 

shaded white. 
Rosiue, rose. 
Vesta, pink. 

Viscountess Sherbrooke, 
terra- cot ta. 

Tivelve Pomjjon Varieties. 

Adelaide, blush edged 

lavender. 
Arthur West, rich crimson 
Bacchus, bright crimson 

scarlet. 
Daisy, salmon shaded 

amber. 



Fompon Varieties, con- 
tinued. 

Darkest of All, dark 

maroon. 
Donovan, white tipped 

lavender. 
Doris, silvery lilac. 
E. F. Junker, pale amber, 
Emily Hopper, yellov,^ 
George Brinckman, white. 
Nerissa, soft pink. 
Tommy Keith, cardinal 

tipped white. 

Twelve Single Varieties. 
Alice Scale, crimson 

shaded scarlet. 
Aurora, yellow suffused 

orange. 
Beauty's Eyes, satiny 

lilac, crimson disc. 
Columbine, rose shaded 

orange. 
Demon, rich maroon. 
Girlie, cream edged red, 
Leslie Scale, lilac, crimson 

disc. 

Miss Roberts, clear yellow 
Polly Eccles, fawn, red 
disc 

Robin Adair, petunia 

tipped white. 
The Bride, pure Avhite. 
Victoria, crimson, white 

band. 



The Cultivation of Dahlias. 

In at least one respect the management of Dahlias differs materially 
from that of the greater number of plants that are grown in our 
gardens, inasmuch as it provides a distinct period of rest, when 
no attention whatever is called for from the owner. This extends 
from the time the stools are stored for the winter until the moment 
arrives for the propagation of fresh stock in the spring, or when 
the old stools are brought forth for utilisation again. To those 
who want the finest flowers one has no hesitation in recommend- 
ing the practice of raising young plants every year, as they produce 
the best quality flowers for exhibition purposes. This seems to be 
the pro[)er time for one to set about affording cultural directions. 

Propagation. — There are at least two methods of increasing . 
Palilias, either of which may l)e adopted at will. The first to be 
considercMl, and undoulitedly the better of the two, is from 
cuttings taken in the spi'inof. These are secured by bringing the 
stools frorn the store and placing them in some convenient position 
in a house, where they may be just covered with soil; this is 



DAHLIA ISLAND QUEEN. 



91 




FIG. 31.-THE BEAUTIFUL MAUVE COLOURED CACTUS 
DAHLIA ISLAND QUEEN. 

(See 'page S9.) 



I 

92 VIGTOniAL FBAGTICAL BVLB QROWmO. 

kept moist, and with the warmth of the structure at tliat period 
of the year growths push quickly from many invisible eyes (maore 
correctly buds), and these are taken as cuttings. Many growers 
staunchly advocate the discarding of the first shoots which are 
produced, on the ground that they are so sappy that good plants 
cannot be hoped for from tbem. 

Some of the earliest growths are by no means gross, and will 
certainly give satisfactory results if they are properly looked after. 
If it can be seen that the shoot is sappj^, throw it away : but if 
it is firm, retain and use it. 

Each cutting should be given a small pot, using a fibrous loam, 
with a little coarse sand to ensure free passage of water. Very 
little drainage is necessary, and short stubby shoots cut squarely 
beneath a joint should be chosen. If the stools are placed in heat 
at the beginning of ]\Iarch, and the house is warm, growths 
3 or 4 inches long will be produced in about ten or twelve 
days ; or, if these do not appear suitable, they may be removed 
and the second crop of shoots secured. 

After insertion, in the course of which it is imperative to see 
that the base of the cutting rests upon the base of the hole, the 
pots should be plunged in a bed that has a bottom heat of about 
65°, with their tops as close as possible, without touching, to the 
glass above them. Neglect of the observance of this latter point 
generally results in the growth becoming leggy and weak, instead 
of remaining sturdy ancl strong. Shading must be employed in 
sunny weather, a.nd while many recommend a permanent wash of 
whiting and milk, we prefer to have movable material, to be used 
wdien necessary and not at other times. 

Plenty of air is essential at this stage, and the leaves must be 
lightly sprinkled wdien requii'ed. When it is seen that root action 
is well on the w\ay, take the plants to a cooler structure and prepare 
to place them in 3-inch pots, using a compost of best yellow^ loam, 
leaf mould, the refuse from a Mushroom bed, and sand in pro- 
portion to the retentiveness of the loan:;. Exercise the utmost 
care not to break the tender roots, and when the work is completed 
stand the plants in a warm frame or a greenhouse, close to the 
glass in either case. 

Th3 second method by wdnch increase can be effected is by 
division of the stools after these have been started, as suggested 
for the production of cuttings. The division must be done with 
a view to having a growth to each piece, and if potted singly and 
treated as advised for cuttings they will make good plants in due 
course. 

One other means by Avhich plants may be raised is deserving 
of brief reference, as by its aid we secure our new^ varieties. This 
is from seeds, but the process is too tedious and has to be carried 
out on such an extensive scale if anything like good results are 
desired, that it is rather beyond the ken of the amateur, who is 
wise in leaving it to the professional Dahlia grower, from whom 



PLANTING DAHLIAS. 



95 



I the few meritorious varieties (in comparison with the number 
raised) can always be procured. Tlie seeds should be sown in a 
warm house in March, in boxes or pots according to convenience, 
potted singly as ^oon as they are large enough, and planted out when 
the weather is favourable in June. They are extremely floriferous, 
and from a good strain a gem maybe occasionally secured. 

Management of Young Plants.— With the placing in the 
3-inch pots of the rooted cuttings the work of the grower is not 
finished, as it is now his object to keep the plants moving steadily 
forward until the period for planting comes along. It may be 
necessary to transfer the plants into larger pots, and if so a 
similar compost to that already recommended should be used. In 
any case, if they are in a greenhouse, get them into a frame as 
soon as possible, particularly if one with a little bottom heat is 
at command, because here it is an easy matter to keep the plants 
in progress, and ensure them retaining their hardness and stoutness 
by constantly admitting fresh air. To raise fine cuttings and then 
to spoil them by coddling, as there is no doubt is often done, is 
worse than a pity— it is folly— and must be guarded against by all 
possible means. 

Planting Out. — The soil is best prepared some time in 
advance of planting, to allow the food that has been put into 
it to become amalgamated and to permit the ground to settle 
down. The best natural manure at command should be incor- 
porated with the ground, working it where it is possible to do so 
into the second spit, and having an upper layer of pure loam, so 
as to prevent the roots coming in actual contact with the manure. 
To economise manure, the land should be prepared in stations 
4 feet apart all ways, in order to allow each plant to have the fullest 
benefit of light and air. 

The first thing to do is to insert the stake, and it must 
be one that is not only of good height but very strong, as 
from it all ties will be taken for the support of the branches. 
When the plants are approaching to full growth, it will be 
necessary to place about four other stakes in position, but this 
ji does not warrant the cultivator in having a weak central one. 
' Then, when the proper time arrives, the plants must be put out, 
placing them comparatively close to the stake, and attaching a 
loose tie at once in case of a quickly rising heavy wind. Make 
I the soil firm about the roots, but clo not go so far as to stamp 
^ upon it, as people have been seen to do before now. 

The object of placing the food in the second spit is to 
prevent the roots getting into it too soon, as they certainly will do 
I if it is on the surface. Gnossness of growth at all stages is 
* undesirable, but particularly when the plants are very young, as 
ij -it is difficult, if not impossible, to persuade them to grow out 
' of it, and the blooms come Avith serious defects which render 
them quite unfit for exhibition purposes, and not of material 
ralue for the adornment of the garden. By the time the plants are 



96 PICTORIAL FBAGTIGAL BULB GB OWING, 



firmly established in the soil the roots will have found the 
special food, and the growths will be so numerous and so vigorous 
that they will be in a fit condition for its reception. 

When the plants are in their most active state the amount of 
food that they call for is enormous, and their wants must be supplied 
or the results will not come up to our expectations or ambitions. 
In respect of the best kinds of food for Dahlias, one is not met 
with any serious difficulties, as the plants are sufiiciently accommo- 
dating to appreciate practically anything that is good, provided it 
is afforded in reason and variety. To keep applying the same 
thing is certainly injudicious, as the plants tire of it, and do not 
derive the benefit that they should do. 

The time of planting is a very important point, as upon it 
may rest the difi"erence between success and failure. Let the fact 
that the Dahlia is a half-hardy plant be ever borne in mind, or in 
our haste to get the plants in their permanent quarters we may put 
them out before danger from late frosts is passed. The results of 
this practice are often disastrous, as it does not require a very 
hard frost to do irremediable damage. Early in June is the most 
general time, but even then a sharp look-out should be kept, so 
that if frost appear imminent protective material may be instantly 
placed about the plants. This close observation should be maintained 
until the third week of June at least, and ought really never to be 
relaxed. 

Reducing the Growths.— One sometimes sees it recommended 
to retain all the growths a plant may produce, but it is rarely indeed 
that this policy is wise, as, even for garden decoration, the results 
are infinitely more satisfactory w^hen a certain reduction is made. 
Pompon varieties difter so materially from the Show and Fancy 
sections that they may for a moment be left out of consideration. 
The ideal number of growths to retain when the grower has the 
exhibition of blooms as his jorimary object, is four for Show and 
Fancy sections, the same, or perhaps one more, for the beautiful 
Cactus varieties, seven for the singles, and practically all that 
are produced in the case of the Pompons. The reason that more 
shoots are retained in the two latter sections is simply because 
reduction spells size, and in neither of these is this by any means a 
recomm.endation on the exhibition table. The selected growths 
should be chosen well down on the main stem, and these again 
will demand pinching, but not until they have made substantial 
progress. After the secondary breaks are secured, all shoots 
springing from them must be rigidly removed. 

Staking,— Hand in hand with the thinning must run the staking, 
and unless this is properly carried out it is useless to hope for the 
production of blooms sufficiently meritorious for placing upon the 
exhibition table. The constant swaying about to which the wind 
will inevitably subject them will either blow out the growths 
themselves, or so injure the fiowers by bruising as to render them 
worthless. We have already got the principal support into position, 



PBOTEGTING DAHLIAS. 



97 



and round this must be arrayed other strong stakes, correspondmg in 
number with the growths, each one being furnished with a support 
of its own. To these the shoots are attached, firmly, yet so freely as 
to permit the shoot to move about and expand as the plant attains 
age. If it should become necessary to remove one of the stakes when 
growth is well advanced, let the operation be carried out with the 
utmost care, and put the new^ support in the hole left by the removal 
of the first one. This obviates the probability of damage accruing. 

Timing Blooms.— In this lies, to a very large degree, the 
cultivator's success in the exhibition arena, as unless he can 
manage this correctly he can never rely upon having his flowers 
in at the required time. It is one of the several operations in 
gardening that experience in a particular soil and district will teach, 
aided by the closest observation and persistent diary making, so 
as to have a record of progress from year to year. Until this 
experience has been gained (and the wuse man will continue it 
afterwards) several buds in different stages should be chosen for 
retention, in order to guard, as far as possible, against an error. At 
this stage the greatest worry will arise from the prevalence of 
earwigs, whose faculty for selecting the finest buds upon which to 
exercise their power of destruction approaches to the miraculous. 
Of these mention wdll be made in due course. 

Protecting Blooms, —Following hard upon the timing in 
importance, as regards exhibition produce, is the protection of 
the flowers as well from the eff'ects of the weather as from the 
ravages of earwigs and other pests. It used to be a very common 
practice in some parts of the country, and probably still is in 
certain districts, to enclose each bud in a bag made of soft muslin, 
this being with a view to keeping earwigs at bay. But it is not 
this aspect of the case that will be dealt wuth at this juncture ; it 
is rather the protection of the developed, or nearly so, bloom from 
atmospheric eS'ects that must receive attention. The shades s^Decially 
made and sold for this purpose are the best things to employ, 
and, though they may be rather expensive at the outset^ they must 
be procured, and will, w^ith reasonable care, last for a considerable 
period. Home-made contrivances are frequently utilised by growers, 
and will be found to answer admirably, provided they are properly 
constructed with knowledge of the form of the flower and the 
particular object in their use. Those made with canvas sides 
strained on to a wire frame are probably the most useful form to 
employ, but it should be regarded as essential that they have a 
movable cover, or one of glass and another of wood. The idea of 
thus providing two tops is to have at hand a dark or a light shade 
for use, according to discretion, as while some flow^ers bleach in tlie 
sunlight and others burn, still more demand brilliant light before 
their richest hues can be brought out ; afterwards these, too, m^ty 
require protection. Again, the protectors will perform a valuable 
service in the timing of the flowers, for when skilfully employed 
they will accelerate or retard a bloom to an appreciable degree. It 

G 



98 PIGTOUIAL VRAGTIGAL BXTLB GROWING. 



is usually desirable to have tlie shades i.u position some twelve 
or fifteen days prior to the date at which the flowers are required. 
The utmost care mast be taken that the bloom does not move in the 
protector, or the outer florets will be ruined by the friction. 

Dahlias for ^ Garden Adornment. — The brilliant effects that 
can be produced in the garden by the different sections of the Dahlia 
warrant the garden 3r in according the best attention in his power to 
the plants. The miserable examples which are often seen are not 
worthy the name of Dahlias, and have little or no resemblance 
to thoroughly well grown plants. It is not to be supposed that the 
gardener with his multifarious duties, or the amateur with his 
varied loves and limited accommodation, can achieve the success 
that crowns the efforts of the specialist ; nor would it be possible for 
either ^ of these to imitate the elaborate details to which the 
enthusiast subjects his plants : each must work according to his 
conveniences, and it is quite certain that all the labour that can be 
given to the Dahlia quarters will be most generously repaid in the 
infinitely greater number of vastly superior flowers that the plants 
wiil produce. 

As far as possible, the producer should adopt the suggestions that 
have already been laid down for the development of exhibition 
blooms, modifying the methods at any point where they are 
too advanced or the conveniences at command will not permit of 
their adoption. Many growers leave the stools in the ground from 
one year's end to the other, but the system has little to recom- 
mend it beyond its unquestioned simplicity. If the stools are well 
covered with ashes or other suitable protective material, they will 
pass unscathed through a winter of normal severity, and produce 
an abundance of flowers in the following year, but these will lack 
many things that go to the making of a really good Dahlia. 
When this system is adopted the grower should reduce the number 
of growths that push to about five, as these will bring almost as 
many blooms as a greater number, and they will certainly be of 
far better quality than when the plants are allowed to grow in 
the guise of a thicket. It will be necessary, too, to apply even 
more generous applications of liquid manure than when the plants 
are put in fresh land, as the roots of the plants in the previous 
season will have drawn out immense quantities of nutriment. 
With a view to aiding in the feeding, it will be found advantageous 
to remove a few inches of the top soil, putting in its place some 
rich compost, or failing this using the depression thus made as a 
saucer that will aid in conducting liquid nourishment directly down 
to the roots. 

Those, and their name is legion, who replant the old stools every 
year may improve matters very considerably by the reduction of 
the number of growths, precisely as has been recommended in the 
foregoing paragraphs. The stools ought to be removed from the 
place of storage and put in slight warmth, so as to have them in 
active progress before they reach the open quarters. In other 



GEO WING DAHLIAS IN POTS. 



99 



respects the procedure may be on as nearly the lines laid down 
for exhibition plants as ways and means will allow. Another course 
may be followed, and wdth proper management it will give 
wonderfully fine returns. This is to divide the stools into single 
tubers, pot these in 5-inch pots of good compost, keep them in a 
warm house with the soil always just moist, and when the time for 
planting arrives put them out at a distance of 4 feet asunder in all 
directions. If the soil has been made rich in the manner suggested, 
and the plants are treated in all respects similarly to those from 
cuttings, they will give blooms of almost equal merit, that may be 
drawn upon for the show or be taken advantage of for garden 
adornment alone. 

Dahlias in Pots. — One other phase of culture remains to be 
dealt with, and this is the practice of growing a few plants 
entirely in pots. Endeavours have been made of late years to 
popularise this mode of treatment, but it cannot be said that the 
results have proved very encouraging to the promoters. The fact 
is that Dahlias are essentially garden flowers, and, though a certain 
• number of people may care to have some plants for flowering 
in their greenhouses, it is unlikely that they will ever have any 
great vogue for this purpose. From the specimens one sees 
occasionally, it is obvious that they resent in no slight manner 
the restricted area in w^hich the roots are w^orking, and it seems to be 
well-nigh impossible to keep the plants from becoming drawn and 
carrying thin, pale foliage that does not look as if it could do much 
service in the building up of fine blooms. 

In setting out to grow these plants in pots, the general principles 
that govern their culture in the ordinary way may well be made to 
apply. That is to say, there must be the same care in propagating 
from firm cuttings in the spring, and the same incessant attention 
to the plants from the time that they pass out of the 3-inch pots in 
which the cuttings were inserted until they have produced their crop 
of flowers. Because they are growing in pots must not be taken as 
justifying forcing treatment, for this will be followed by almost 
instant collapse. Bring the plants gradually forward until they are 
practically at the point of flowering, when a very little persuasion 
may be resorted to if it be absolutely necessary ; but even then it 
will be accompanied by a modicum of risk. Watering must at all 
periods be most carefully attended to, as it is imperative that the 
plants be kept constantly, though slowly, moving onwards 
Needless to say, with such gross feeding plants as Dahlias, it 
will be essential to supply special food of the finest possible 
quality, and in quantities increasing with the age and vigour of the 
plants. 

At all stages the plants must be kept as near to the roof glass 
of the structure in which they are growing as possible, so as to 
reduce to a minimum the probability of legginess. If the leaves 
are far from the glass, they become attenuated, and, as with other 
plants, cannot perform their important functions in an adequate 



L.of C. 



100 FIG TORI AL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 



manner, with the natural consequence that the appearance of the 
plants and the quality of the flowers are seriously prejudiced. 

Enemies of Dahlias. — There can be no two opinions as to 
what is the most inveterate enemy of exhibition Dahlias. It is the 
earwig, for it will spoil a bloom in one night, and that bloom, as has 
already been hinted, is sure to be the finest in the garden, 
especially when one is explaining to ones friends the reason why 
one's stand failed to carry off some coveted award. For a wiliness 
that is absolutely uncanny, commend us to the earwig. We 
place our traps with the utmost care, go round the plants after dark 
dealing out destruction to every earwig we can find, and retire to 
rest comfortably assuring ourselves that our blooms are safe until the 
morning, at any rate. But when morning comes our confidence 
in our ability to cope with the earwig is roughly shattered, for 
the one bloom needed to ensure success in the great class has gone 
to ruin However, these things add sting to our attacks, and we 
start forth with renewed determination that when next the earwig 
comes in our way we will exterminate him root and branch. 
Trapping and hand picking are our only resources, and they must 
be persisted in until the blooms are actually on the exhibition table, 
when we may feel reasonably confident that the danger is passed. 
Some deluded individuals think that placing troughs of water all 
round the Dahlia quarters will ensure immunity from attack, 
but they overlook the fact that the earwig can and will fly, so 
that their labour is absolutely in vain. 

As slugs want everything that the gardener most prizes, it is 
superfluous to say that they want the Dahlias, and if they can gain 
access to them when young they will destroy all chances of 
success in the show tent. Keep the surroundings of the plants 
scrupulously clean at all periods, as slugs want hiding places, and it 
•should not be one of the duties of the grower to provide them by 
having rubbish and litter about the cherished plants. Beyond 
this, baiting with anything that will attract them and searching at 
night are the only remedies, or more correctly preventives, for 
there can be no redress when the plant is spoiled. Green fly 
will attack the plants at the tips of the shoots, but a pinch of 
snuff, some tobacco powder dusted upon them, and forcible evening 
sprayings with clear or soft-soapy water will generally prove 
efficacious. In all cases it is essential that our attacks be persistent, 
as intermittent attention is worse than useless by placing us in a 
position of false security. 



EUGHABIS CULTURE. 



Cbapter XXVIL— Crptbroniums* 

PopuLAELY known as Dog's Tooth Violets, these are most delightful 
bulbous rooted plants for the rock garden or the border of miscel- 
laneous subjects in the flower, vegetable, or fruit gardens. They are 
not big growing by any means, and there is ever present a danger 
that they maybe overwhelmedby their grosser neighbours unless care 
is taken that this does not occur. \Yhen once the bulbs have 
become firmly established — and no difficulty should be experienced 
in this direction — the growth will be sufficiently vigorous for the 
plants to take care of themselves. Like so many of our most 
charming bulbous plants, Erythroniums are admirably adapted for 
culture in the grass, provided this can remain uncut until the 
leafage has performed its proper functions. 

Selection of Erythroniums. 

Dens- cams, purple, pink, Hartwegii, yellow, early 

and white ; there are flowering. 

several varieties, of Howellii, yellow. 

which Japonicum and Johnstonii, red and pink ; 

Sibiricum are probably very beautiful. 

the finest. Kutt allianum, golden 
grandiflorum, yellow. yellow. 

r e volutumB olanderi. whit e, 



Cbapter XXVIII -€ucDari$e$. 

N"o genus of bulbous plant with which we are acquainted offers so 
fine an opportunity to the successful cultivator for wagging a finger 
when pointing the moral at an unsuccessful brother. What passages 
of arms there are at meetings of gardeners' societies when Eucharis 
culture is the subject under discussion ! Separate the wheat of 
common sense from the chaff of impassioned rhetoric, and it is found 
that the man who wields the water-pot holds the secret of success in 
his hand. 

Eucharis flowers, like the poor, are always with us. They 
adorn the font, attend the wedding, and if we have been so 
fortunate as to make a few^ friends, it is probable some of these 
pure and fragrant flowers will go with us on our last journey to 
God's Acre. 



102 PIGTOBIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GBOWING, 

Eucharis Lilies are stove plants, provided with large, deep 
green, broad-bladed leaves, and yielding tall spikes of lovely blooms 
usually twice a year. Three crops a year can be obtained from 
the same plants, but it is a sweating process, and ultimately 
ends in failure. Mellow loam, with a fourth part of peat, or leaf 
soilj and some coarse sand added, makes a suitable compost. Good 
drainage is absolutely essential. The size of pot used may vary 
with the taste or needs of the grower, but as a guide to the 
requirements of Eucharises, it may be said that six bulbs will find 
accommodation in a 10-inch pot. Never re-pot Eucharises except 
to save them from starvation ; liquid manure and top- dressings 
will keep plants healthy for a good w^hile after the pots have become 
well filled with roots. 

After flowering, Eucharises should be rested by a reduction of the 
water supply, and a temperature 5^ or 10° lower than that in 
which they have been growing ; but it is necessary to add that 
''drying ofi"'' or *'cool treatment" are alike productive of failure. 
The temperature for Eucharises should never fall below 60°.^ 

The bugbear of Eucharis growers is the " mite," a tiny insect, 
Rhizoglyphus echinopus by name, which infests bulbs that have 
suffered from some error of treatment. The mites can be killed 
by soaking the bulbs for fifteen minutes in a mixture made of 
i lb. of potassium sulphide dissolved in 3 gallons of water heated 
to 115"^. After their bath, put the bulbs on a sunny shelf in the 
stove to dry, giving them no other shade than a sheet of thin 
paper affords. Pot the bulbs after three weeks of dry treatment, 
using small pots and sandy soil ; plunge them where there is a 
moderate bottom heat, and plenty of moisture in the atmosphere, 
but of direct watering there must be none until both roots and 
leaves have made considerable progress. 



Selectio7i of Eucharises. 



Candida, white ; very 
pretty, but smaller in 
all its parts than grandi- 
flora. 



Burf ordiensis and Stevensi 
are hybrids ; the former 
has white flowers, and 
the latter has also white 
flowers, but with a dis- 
tinct yellow corona* 



grandiflora, white ; in 
every way the best 
Eucharis. The Amazon- 
ica of most gardens is 
correctly grandiflora. 



A NEW FEE ESI A. 103 



CDapter XXIX — Fmsias^ 

Rich and varied as is the flora, of South. Africa, it is doubtful 
whether it contains a more beautiful, more fragrant, or more useful 
class of plants than the elegant Freesias. Not so very many years 




Photo : Cassell and Co. , Ltd. 

FIG. 34.-FREESIA AUREA. 



ago he was accounted a clever gardener who could grow and flower 
Freesias well year by year ; but many amateurs soon found 
that strong heat was not at all necessary to secure the most 
i satisfactory results. Failures with Freesias may generally be traced 
j to one or both of two mistakes — namely, a too free use of water in 
' the early stages of growth, and failure to fully appreciate the 
advantages of thoroughly drying and baking the bulbs. 

Let us descend to details — the Freesias are worth it. Five- or 



I 



104 PIGTORIAL FRAG TIG AL BULB GROWING, 



6-incli pots are quite large enough, and will accommodate ten or 
twelve bulbs. Place the bulbs 1 inch deep in a mixture of 2 parts 
loam, 1 part each of leaf soil and dried cow manure, with some sand 
added. Pot up the earliest batch in August, and continue the work 
at intervals according to the supply and demand. It is common to 
plunge the pots, but we succeed better without. If the soil is dry, 
sufficient water to just moisten it must be given before the 
operation of plunging is performed, but if it is moderately moist 
scarcely any water will be needed until growth is 3 or 4 inches high. 
At this stage a little more warmth may be given, and water will be 
needed frequently. Preesias have a strong dislike for a high 
temperature when growing, and any attempt to force them will end 
in failure. Provide the flower stems with a little support, but the 
lighter and more unobtrusive this is the better. 

The next important point to consider is that of resting. Decrease 
the supply of water directly the flowers have faded, and when the 
leaves turn yellow cease watering. If in your greenhouse there is 
a shelf on which the summer sun shines with roasting force, then 
there need be no further search for an ideal spot for Preesias. In 
such a position they will dry and rest without any attention, and 
will be ready for potting about August 

aui'ea, yellow {see p. 103). refracta Leich.tliiii, prim- 

refracta, white and orange. rose yellow, with, orange 

refracta alba, white ; the blotch, 
best of the Freesias. 



CDapter XXX -fritillarias. 

Here we have a family whose charms are such as grow steadily upon 
the cultivator, until beauty can be seen in every part of the flower. 
To the lover of the garish they will possess no attraction whatever, 
as theirs is a beauty that must be sought for. True, in the well- 
known Crown Imperials, with their tiered whorls of leaves and 
flowers, one has scarcely to look to see it, so striking is the habit of 
the plants ; but in the majority we must perforce lift up the bloom — 
whose form is that of the head of a snake, and has given rise to the 
common name of Snake's Head Lily — to appreciate the charms that 
lie vv^ithin, and which the plant is far too modest to show for itself. 

The full charm of the Snake's Head is seen when the bulbs are 
planted in grass, among the blades of which the nodding blooms on 
their slender, arched pedicels, swaying in the gentlest breeze that 
blows, are indescribably delightful. Many sorts become naturalised, 
and form clumps of considerable extent in the course of a few years. 



CROWN IMFERIALS. 




FIG. 35. -THE CROWN IMPERIAL 
(FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS) . 



Selection of Fritillarias. 



armena, purple ; there are 
red and yellow varieties. 

aurea, yellow. 

citrina, green. 

Imperialis, yellow ; there 
are numerous varieties, 
including some with 
silver and gold varie- 
gated leafage. Six of 
the best are aurea mar- 
ginata, argentea mar- 
ginata, Aui-ora, Crown - 
upon-Cro^vn, rubra, and 
Sulphurine. 



latifolia, red. 

lutea, yellow. 

Meleagris, spotted purple; 
several fine forms. 

pallidiflora, pale yellow. 

Persica, violet brown. 

pudica, j^ellow. 

Pyrenaica, purple. 

recurva, orange scarlet ; 
this is very beautiful, but 
somewhat difl&cult to es- 
tablish in many gardens. 



106 PIGTOEIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



Notwithstanding the superb exhibits of these gorgeously beautiful 
flowers that we occasionally see at shows, it cannot be said that 
they are so extensively cultivated as might be wished. This seems to 
be especially the case in the South of England, for they are 
undoubtedly more frequently seen in the Midlands and in Scotland, 
where tliey are magnificently represented in many gardens. 

Knowing how finely they thrive " across the Border," the 
inexperienced are prone to think that they will only succeed in the 
cooler climate which they there enjoy. That they like the soil 
and the climatal conditions none wdll dispute, but it is equally 
irrefutable that they will flourish almost, if not quite, everywhere in 
England, if their requirements are assiduously studied. 

We find them in Cambridgeshire, in Somersetshire, and in the 
Isle of Thanet, and in each case they are as near to perfection 
as anyone need wdsh to see ; these places are widely separated, and 
diff'er substantially in every respect, thus showing what can be done 
when the work is set about in a businesslike way, and with a 
determination to achieve success. 

The Gladiolus family may be said, as far as general culture is 
concerned, to be divided into five sections, of which the principal 
is that known as the Gandavensis, which is said to have originated 
from G. psittacinus and G. oppositiflorus ; this comprises many 
varieties of brilliant beauty, and some of them are very easily grown. 
Then there is the Lemoinei section, which is of hybrid origin, and 
contains some remarkable combinations of colours. From America we 
have received, though it was raised in Germany, another hybrid 
division named Childsii, after its introducer ; the members of it 
are strong growing, and very handsome in suitable positions. In 
addition to these there are the Nanceianus section and the species 
with their varieties, several of which are invaluable. A few Gladioli 
are grown in pots, but the majority do not respond readily to 
this method of culture, and should be placed in the garden. 



CDapter XXXK-6IadioIt. 



Selections of Gladioli. 

Hybrids of Gandavensis. 



Baroness Burdett-Coutts, 
lilac, tinged rose purple. 



Althea, orange red, flaked 
crimson, violet blotch. 



Dalila,briglitrose,blotched 
and striped white. 



Decima, rosy white, edged 
crimson. 



Casilda, pale yellow, rosy 
red blotch. 



Dora Craven, white, car- 
mine blotch. 



Colada, salmon red, white 
blotch. 



Dr. Baill}'', scarlet, blotched 
carmine on vrhite ground. 



SELEGTIOKS OF GLADIOLI. 



107 



Sybrids of Gandavensls (continued). 



Ella, lilac, shaded rose, 

crimson blotch. 
Elvira, rose white, flaked 

white, centre saffron. 
Fiametta, rich rose salmon. 
Flambeau, orange red, 

edged crimson, white 

lines and blotch. 
Formosa, satin rose, car- 
mine stripe,white blotch. 
Glaive de Feu, salmon 

rose, ivory white blotch. 
Grand Eouge, scarlet 

crimson, 
Hetty Dean, white, purple 

blotch, 
lona, crimson, purple 

blotch, centre white. 



lolanthe, reddish pink, 

lower segments feathered 

crimson. 
Lauretta, white, shaded 

pink, flaked rose. 
Martial, crimson, flaked 

scarlet. . 
Phineas, carmine, white 

blotch. 
Pyramide, orange rose, 

centre amber. 
Eosalind, pale rose, flaked 

crimson. 
Sorcerer, salmon red, 

striped and spotted 

maroon. 



It should be understood that the newer varieties of G. 
Gandavensis, such as are utilised for exhibition purposes, are 
expensive, because the stock of corms is limited ; those included in 
this selection provide very fine quality at a reasonable price. 



Selection 

Baron J oseph Hulot, deep 

violet blue. 
E. V. Halluck, pale yellow, 

crimson blotches. 
Eclipse, pale lilac, black 

blotches. 
Ethiopie, violet red, black- 
ish blotches. 
General de Nansouty , blue, 

violet red blotches, 

yellow edges. 
Jane Dieulafoy, creamy 

white, maroon blotches. 



red, 



of Zemoinei, 

Lamarck, crimson 

yellow stripes. 
M. Leveque, velvet crimson. 
Marc Micheli, pale lilac, 

lower segments violet. 
Mephistopheles, cinnabar 

red, black and sulphur 

blotches. 
Kosa Bonheur, pale porce- 
lain, purplish blue 

blotches. 
Senateur Volland, blue, 

violet blotch, yellow 

stnpe. 



Selection of Childsii. 



Adolphe Close, slate blue, 
mottled white and crim- 
son. 

Ben Hur, brick red, spotted 

crimson. 
Bessie Tanner, salmon 

rose, blotched white. 



Columbia, scarlet, flaked 
and spotted purple. 

Dr. Sellow, carmine rose, 
white bands. 

WilHam Falconer, pink, 
mottled crimson. 



Selection of Naneeianus Varieties. 

This section is of the same origin as G. Childsii. Speaking 
of these two divisions, Mr. J. Burrell, Cambridge, who is one of the 
leading authorities on this genus, said : " For all practical purposes 
these (Naneeianus) and the Childsii might be bracketed together. 
They are both derived from the species Saundersii ] they both 



108 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 

have its bad faults of only opening two or three flowers on the 
spike before the others fade, and have the same tendency of the 
flowers to face downwards. The Nanceianus have the better 
colours, but there are no whites or yellows yet in either section." 




FIG. 36. -A VARIETY OF GLADIOLUS GANDAVENSIS. 



Colonel Gillon, rose, large 
white blotch, purple dots. 

G. A. Kuyp, carmine red, 
blotched and pencilled 
purple on white. 

Georges Frick, crimson, 
blotched brown, pen- 
cilled white. 



Peau Rouge, coppery 
salmon rose, marbled 
brown and yellow. 

President Chandon, ver- 
milion, blotched sulphur 
yellow. 

Tsarine, lilac rose, carmine 
blotch, white edge. 



GLADIOLI FOR BELLING. 



109 



Species and Hybrids of Gladioli. 

Though these are comparatively numerous, it cannot be said 
that they possess any very material value as garden plants. An 
exception is seen in the beautiful white variety of the hybrid 
G. Colvillei, which is universally cultivated in pots, both under 
ordinary and forcing treatment ; it is an invaluable plant for the 
purposes indicated, while it may also be utilised in the border if 
such be desired. Others that are of substantial assistance to the 
grower for pot culture are embodied in the subjoined list, and are 
marked with an asterisk : — 

*Adonis, ordnge scarlet, 

white blotch, 
atroviolacea, purple. 
Brenclileyensis, brilliant 

scarlet. 
. Byzantinus, rosy purple. 
cardiDalis, scarlet, flaked 

white. 

*Colvillei, rose purple, 

striped white. 
*Colvillei The Bride, white, 
commuuis in variety. 
*dehcatissimus (Blushing 

Bride), white, rosy 

crimson blotch. 
♦Fairy Queen, rosy Avhite, 

excellent for forcing, 
floribundus, citron. 



insignis, reddish purple. 
*Mary Anderson, blush 

white, flushed rose. 
Mauve Beauty, pale lilac. 
Non Plus Ultra, deep rose, 

shaded scarlet, 
oppositiflorus, white. 
Prince Albert, deep salmon 

rose. 

psittacinus, yellow and 
red. \ 

Queen Victoria, deep red. \ 

*Rosy Gem, pale rose, 
white blotch. 

Saundersii, scarlet and 
white. 

■'^Salmon Queen, salmon. 



Gladioli for Bedding. 

When it is not desired to grow the choicest of the hybrids for 
general bedding purposes, the following will be found of considerable 
value, as they produce bold flowers of distinct colours : — 



Beethoven, delicate rose. 
Brenchleyensis, brilliant 

scarlet. 
Cybele, satin rose, flamed 

carmine. 



Lord Byron, carmine, 

blotched white. 
Magnificent, white, flushed 

carmine. 
Walmer, glowing rosy 

scarlet. 



PICTORIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 




fIG. 37. -GLADIOLUS COLVILLEI THE BRIDE. 



STAKING AND FROTECTING GLADIOLI. 



Ill 




114 FIGTOlitAL PBACTIGAL BULB GBOWIIfQ. 



CDapter XXXH.-Oloxinias 

Modern Gloxinias are descendants from Sinningia speciosa, lioi ti- 
culturally a useless plant as compared witli the valuable race of 
whicli it is the parent. The Gloxinias have literally been raised from 
the dust. When first the old florists produced them the flowers were 
pendulous, and each one had to be separately tied and staked that 
the plant might make a presentable appearance. Gradually the bell- 
shaped flowers were raised to a horizontal position, and their stems 
were at the same time strengthened. Xow we have erect flowers in all 
the best strains, and it is not necessary to give any artificial support 
unless the plants are for exhibition or have to travel some distance. 

There are three distinct methods of increasing Gloxinias— by seeds, 
by leaf cuttings, and by division of the rounded, tuberous root-stock. 
The latter is an easy method, practised in spring, directly new growth 
begins. For leaf cuttings it is best to select fully developed leaves of 
an approved variety, cut through the midrib and principal veins with 
a sharp knife, and peg them down on some moist sandy soil. Young 
tubers will soon form at the severed parts, and when large enough 
must be potted. A recommendable compost for tubers consists of 2 
parts of fibrous loam, 1 part of leaf mould or peat, and sufficient sand 
to keep the whole porous. For seedlings and young plants generally 
it is advisable to increase the leaf mould or peat and reduce the 
quantity of loam. In the matter of temperature a mean of 65° is 
correct for the summer, but in the winter growing plants ought not 
to be subjected to less than 55° even at night. For resting plants a 
minimum of 45° will suffice, but 5*^ higher is safer. 

It is quite possible within six months from seed sowing to secure 
a splendid display of Gloxinias. The way to go about the business 
is to sow seeds in one or more of the first three months of the year 
according to the demand and the date at which it is desired to have 
plants in flower. Provide the seed pot with ample drainage, and fill 
it to within J inch of the rim with fine sandy soil ; after pressing the 
soil firmly, water it through a fine rose, and when the water has passed 
away sow the seed thinly, cover the pot with a sheet of glass, put 
thin paper on the glass, and stand all together in a house or pit w^iere 
a moist atmosphere and a temperature of 70° are maintained. Trans- 
fer the seedlings to other pots or pans as they become large enough 
to move, taking care not to disturb the tiny ones that lag behind. 
Three-inch pots will be large enough for the next move, and from 
thence to 5- or 6-inch pots will be sufl&cient for the next shift, and in 
these the plants will flower. 



SELECTIONS OF GLOXINIAS. 



115 



To keep Gloxinias sturdy it is essential that fresh air be admitted 
on all favourable occasions, but not in such Ciuantity as to rapidly or 
materially reduce either the temperature or the atmospheric moisture 
in the house. Stand every plant clear of its neighbour, so that there 
is no competition for light or moisture. When the flowers begin to 
expand we want Gloxinias for the conservatory, and for this reason, 
and also because the plants need it, drier and slightly cooler conditions 
are desirable. Signs of the approaching season of rest wull be observed 
a short time after the last blooms fade, and these must be accepted 
as notice to give water sparingly ; allow sun and air to do their part 
in maturing the tuber previous to its annual sleep. Have a care 
where the Gloxinias are stored, or it may happen that when the time 
for starting them comes round again there will be rotten tubers as a 
result of too moist conditions, or shrivelled, useless tubers because of 
their proximity to the heating apparatus. 



Seleciioii of Gloxinias. 



Aigburtli Crimsou, crimson 



Mont Blanc, white. 



Ariadne, maroon and pink, 
Teined and sj)otted crim- 
son and rose. 



self. 



Netted Queen, white and 
scarlet, netted rose. 



Prince of Wales, crimson 
scarlet. 



Claribel, white sjDotted 
crimson. 



Princess Maud, cherry red, 
violet and white border. 



Electra, maroon and blue, 
with white margin. 



Defiance, scarlet. 



Princess May, white, blush 
tinted. 



Ensign, pm^jle and white. 



Eeading Scarlet, rich scar- 
let. 



Galatea, white, edged violet 
purple. 



Suttons' Purple, pm-ple, 
white base. 



Her Majesty, white, very 
fine. 



The Beacon, crimson. 



PICTORIAL PBAGTICAL BULB GROWING. 



HEMEBOGALLISES AND EEPATIGAS. 117 



C^apter XXXHL -Remcrocallises* 

The popular title of Day Lilies, given to Hemerocallises, has 
reference to the evanescent character of the individual flowers, but so 
beautiful are they, and so freely produced over a considerable period, 
that the species and hybrids have become prime favourites with 
lovers of hardy plants. A sunny position is a matter of the first 
importance, but the Day Lilies are not so particular as to soil, though 
the better this is the more freely are growths and flowers produced. 
The new aurantiaca major seems to be the only one at all ''finicky " ; 
it has high notions, and is satisfied with nothing less than deep and 
fairly strong loam. It is such a beauty, however, that to secure its 
success js worth an efi'ort. Fortunately, Hemerocallises can be 
readily increased by division of the thick roots in autumn or 
spring. Large clumps are the most effective, therefore we advise 
leaving the nurserymen to work up stock. To Mr. G. Yeld, of York, 
praise is due for the many charming Day Lilies he has raised. 

Selection of T)ay Lilies, 
Apricot, apricot yellow. Flamid, orange yellow, 

aui'antiaca major, Yivid flava., yellow. 

orange. fulva, coppery yellow. 

Duniortieri, orange and Sovereign, orange yellow 

brown. 



Cbapter XXXIV.— Repancas. 

It were an easy matter to dwell at length upon the beauty of Hepaticas 
and the desirability of extending their cultivation, but those w^ho 
have once seen these gems in full bloom will need no further urging, 
while for those who have never seen them it is hopeless to attempt 
to convey an adequate idea of their loveliness. As Hepaticas 
are strictly Anemones, forms of Anemone Hepatica, and thrive best 
in a deep but rich and light soil, like other choice members of the 
genus, it is unnecessary to add more in the w^ay of cultural directions 
than suggest that the foot of the rock garden offers a suitable site for 
them. An autumnal mulching with decayed stable manure or leaf 
mould is of importance, owing to the habit the plants have of raising 
their crowms above the soil. 

A selection will include angulosa, bright blue, and the white, blue, 
and red varieties of Hepatica triloba, all of which are represented by 
beautiful double forms. 



118 PIGTOBIAL FBAGTIGAL BULB GBOWING. 



Chapter XXXV — fipacintbs* 

The cultivation of Hyacinths in pots had a much greater vogue 
a decade or two ago than it is favoured with at the present time. 
One could then see them in every greenhouse and conservatory 
in considerable nuiubers, whereas now they are either absent or 
so poorly grown that they fail to make themselves conspicuous. 

The reasons for this diminution in popularity may probably be 
found in the increased variety of plants which we have at command, 
to the fact that the majority of people now prefer to have plants 
of more graceful habit, and such as will provide far more valuable 
material for cutting, and again in the apparent inferiority of the 
bulbs that come \o us from Holland. 

Certain it is that the instances of the magnificent spikes which 
were contributed to exhibitions in various districts, and the 
equally splendid specimens in many a score of gardens, are compara- 
tively limited, though happily not absolutely unknown. The bulbs 
that reach this country in such vast numbers do not, in outward 
appearance at any rate, suggest any material falling off in quality, 
but it is a rare event to find Hyacinths in their several varied colours 
of that quality which compels our appreciation, even while we 
are out of sympathy with the formality of the flower. 

For bedding purposes it seems that instead of depreciating in 
general esteem they are steadily gaining, for their value for spring 
bedding forces itself upon everyone. There is no doubt that beds 
planted with Hyacinths of distinct colours are strikingly handsome, 
and in addition to this, in a hurrying, scurrying age such as ours, the 
fact that they are easily grown speaks loudly in their favour. 

We see, however, even in this phase of Hyacinth culture, signs 
of a gradual but. none the less sure change. Time was when the one 
kind only was employed, and it was the exception rather than the 
rule for a carpeting to be used ; while the inclusion of some totally 
dissimilar bulb was regarded as a sacrilege rather than an improve- 
ment. Look on every hand now, and what do we see 1 Are not, 
broadly speaking, all the beds planted with something that will 
hide the nakedness of the ground ? x\nd do we not see scores of beds 
in which some handsome Narcissus, like Sir Watkin, Emperor, or 
Empress, is in association 

Before giving a number of varieties as amongst the best in 
their several colours, it may, perhaps, be well to say that almost 
without exception the single varieties are superior to the double 
forms, as well for bedding as for cultivation in pots. In any 



A BEAUTIFUL WHITE HYACINTH. 119 

case, tlie garden varieties should, as far as possible, be selected 
from those having decided colours and not too packed a spike. 
Washy or undecided hues fail to produce the brilliant effect that 
can be secured when consideration is given to the picking, and 
only those of marked individuality are chosen. 




FIG. 42.-HYACINTH LA GRANDESSE. 

{See i:)cige 120.) 

Single Hyacinths. 

Bed and Bose Coloured. 

Cavaiguac. Norma. 

Fabiola. Queen of Hyacinths. 

Gertrude. ^Robert Steiger. 

*Gigantea. *Roi des Beiges. 

L'Incomparable. Sultan's Favourite. 

Lord Macaulav. *Von Schiller. 



120 PIGTOBIAL PEAGTICAL BULB GROWING. 



Blue of Various Shades. 

Argus. *King of the Blacks. 

Blondiu. *Kiiig of the Blues. 

Charles Dickens. Leouidas. 

Czar Peter. *Lord Derby. 

Grand Lilas. Masterpiece. 

*Grand Maitre. Pieneman,. 

White and Tinted. 

Alba Maxima. L'Innocence. 

Grand Vainqueiu\ *Madame van der Hoop, 

^Grandeur a Merveille. Mont Blanc. 

King of the Whites. Mr. Plimsoll. 

*La Franchise. Snowball. 

=^La Grandesse (see p. 119). Yoltaire. 

Yellow Shades. 
Bird of Paradise. -King of the Yelh^ws. 

*Ida. L'Or d'Australie. 

Double Hyacinths. 

Red and Hose. 
^Cardinal Wiseman. *Koh-i-Noor. 
Grootvorst. Noble par Merite. 

Blue. 

Bloksberg. *Laurens Koster. 

Garrick. Van Speyk. 

White. 

Bouquet Eoyal. *LaTour d'Auvergne 

La Virginite (early) . 

Prince of Waterloo. 

Tellow. 

s Bouquet d' Orange. Jaune Supreme. 

Hyacinths for Bedding. 

While one may, if one feels disposed, procure these under name, 
the more general and perhaps more satisfactory way is to purchase 
the bulbs under the designations of " crimson,'^ " rose," scarlet," 
" white,'' or what not, as the bulb merchant invariably chooses 
varieties that are in every respect suitable for the purpose. Those 
named are, however, of splendid quality. 

Amy, crimsoD. *Iving of the Blues, dark 

Charles Dickens, porce- blue, 

lain blue. *La Grandesse, pure 

*Grand Maitre, deep white, 

porcelain blue. Kobert Steiger, scarlet. 

Grandeur a Merveille, *Von Schiller, rose, car- 
pale blush. mine stripe. 
* These may be chosen where fewer varieties are wanted. 

Hyacinths for Glasses. 

In procuring Hyacinths for cultivation in glasses it is most 
necessary that the merchant be informed of the object in view. 



? 

MINIATURE HYAGUSTTHS. 121 

Even when the varieties are specially named, the course is just as 
imperative, as absolutely sound bulbs, of medium to large size, 
and heavy for their size, are then chosen. In pot culture perfect 
soundness is beyond question desirable, but in water growing it is 
the chief essential to success. A few varieties, again, do not succeed 
at all when put into glasses, and for these reasons the selection 
is almost invariably best left to the dealer, in the certain knowledge 
that the best that can be done will be done. 

Hyacinths for Forcing. 

Directly one speaks of Hyacinths for forcing one's mind irresistibly 
pictures the most valuable of all, the Early AYhite Eoman. We have, 
it is true, the Italian varieties, which are also responsive to forcing 
treatment, but they pale into insignificance beside the Eoman. The 
majority of the Dutch varieties can be accelerated in flowering with 
perfect safety provided that only the gentlest forcing tactics are 
adopted, but they are never so satisfactory as when allowed to 
advance quite naturally. 

The finest of the Dutch varieties for the purpose indicated is 
probably the double white La Tour d'Auvergne, which will stand any 
reasonable amount of extra heat. 

Miniature Hyacinths. 

In comparison with the typical Dutch Hyacinth, it is fair to say 
that the miniatures are toys, and are not, therefore, worthy of serious 
attention. For one purpose they no doubt have a substantial value, 
and that is for children, who, while small themselves, may prefer a 
small rather than an adult bulb. This is a phase of bulb growing that 
might well be accorded much greater encouragement, for the pro- 
duction of really excellent miniature Hyacinths is vrell within the 
powers of the little ones, whose interest in flowers is beyond question 
increased when they can watch the progress of their own nurselings. 
The bulbs may be placed in water or soil, preferably the latter. 

The culture of Hyacinths is trecitecl on in the openiiig chapters. 



CDapter XXXVI^-irises. 

Whoeyee the person may have been that gave the popular name of 
"Poor Man's Orchid" to the Iris family, he was certainly something 
of a genius, for a more fitting designation could not possibly be 
conceived. Orchids are, speaking broadly, the flowers of the few, but 
Irises are literally the flowers of the many, for judicious selection 
will afi'ord those that will grow anywhere. 

Widely as they are grown at the present time, it were an 



122 FIGTOEIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GUOWINO, 



impassibility to plead too strongly for still further attention to be 
devoted to them by all plant lovers. In far too many gardens at this 
moment the only representative of the family is an aged clump of a 
variety of I. Germanica, which, beautiful as it may be, does not 
adequately uphold the honour of the genus. This, it will probably be 
said, is the case in small gardens only, and by no means gives a fair 




FIG. 43.-IRIS IBERICA. 
{See page 125.) 



idea of the state of affairs in a garden of pretension ; but even in 
quite large places German and Spanish Irises are the sole members 
of the race. 

It may be asserted, with little or no fear of contradiction, that 
the formation of an Iris garden would add a feature of interest to a 
place which might be equalled, but certainly could not be excelled, 
by a garden of any other kind of plants that one could mention. 
More strikingly beautiful effects can easily be secured, of course, but, 



8IJLEGTI0NS OF IBISES, 



123 



given sufficient room for the adoption of a comprehensive scheme, 
where is the family that will give flowers absolutely from one end 
of the year to the other ? 

The hypercritical person will perhaps say that there would be a 
sameness in such a garden that would not be found with other plants, 
but tliis is far from the actual fact of the case, for Irises differ 
widely in habit, time of flowering, in size— both of stature of plant 
and bloom — and in colours. True, there is^no suspicion of gaudiness 
about them ; they are flowers which essentially appeal to the refined 
taste, and not at all to those who will not trouble to seek for the 
beauty that is there. 

Let a man once start an Iris garden, and he will quickly become 
engrossed in its management, for the very fact that some sorts will 
prove difficult to thoroughly establish will add zest to the hobby, and 
insure never failing pleasure. There will be the lowly gem of 3 inches 
in height, and the stately beauty whose flowers sway in the breeze 
some 3 or 4 feet above the ground. And so it would be easy to 
continue to extol the virtues of the Iris garden did space permit. 

This family, it must be understood, is very large indeed, and the 
number of species and varieties is enormous ; they come well-nigh 
from all quarters of the globe and from all climates, and demand 
proportionately different treatment, so that considerable care must be 
exercised in procuring the stock. The accom^panying selections 
contain representatives of each section, as well as varieties of several, 
and if chosen in their entirety would form a splendid collection of 
these most delightful plants. 

With a view to facilitating the selection for the benefit of those 
who only wish for one or two classes of Irises, the lists are made 
as clear as possible by division. 

Selections of Irises. 

In each case where the colours are given that of the standard is 
placed first, and that of the falls last ; markings are not included in 
every instance. In the case of the enumeration of the varieties of I. 
Germanica and others the colours are not always given, as they would 
take up a lot of valuable space, but the varieties are in each instance 
as distinct as possible. 

Species of Irises. 
apliylla, lilac. neglecta, lilac (see selec- 

aurea, yellow. tions). 
Cretensis, lilac. ochroleuca (gigantea). 

f etidissima, blue and lilac. P s e ii d a c o r u s , yellow, 
flavescens, yellow. Water Flag. 

Florentiua, white. Orris puraila, lilac purple. 

root. Sibirica, blue. 

Germanica, many colours squalens, lilac and purple. 

(see selections). unguicularis,lilac and blue, 

graminea, lilac and purple. variegata, claret and 
Kempferi (see levigata). yellow, 
levigata, many colours (see 

selections). 



124 PTGTOniAL PRACTICAL BULB GROWING. 




8HLEGTI0NS OF IRISES. 



125 



Cushion Irises. 

Bismarckiaua, "blue and Sofarana magnifica, stan- 

yellow. dards grey, falls grey, 

Korolkowii, wliite aiid red crest black jDurple {see 

brown. p. 124). 

Iberica, pale lilac and Susiana, brown, black, and 

pm^ple brown (sf'^?^. 122\ lilac. 

Lortetii, cream and rose. tuberosajoiirpleandyellow. 

nigricans, purple, black, Urmiensis, primrose and 

and ciimson. yellow, 
paradoxa, white and blue. 

X.iphion Irises. 

alata, lilac and purple. reticulata, violet, purple, 

Bakeriana, Avhite, violet, and yellow. 

and blue. Xiphioides, many colours. 

Danfordise, yellow and English Iris (see selec- 

brown. tions). 

Histrio, lilac. Xiphium, many colom's. 

orchioides, yellow. Spanish Iris (see 'selec- 

Persica, yellow and lilac. tions). 

Selection of English Irises. 
This section is a very valuable one, for. not only are the flowers 
exceedingly handsome for garden adornment, but they are also of 
particular utility for cutting purposes. There is a good diversity of 
colours, and the varieties are well worthy of more attention. 

Asmus. Lord Palmerston. 

Clara Butt. Lucinda. 

Cleopatra. Mont Blanc. 

Emperor. Peacock. 

Harlequin. Rosa Bonheur. 

La Grandesse. Yainqueur. 

Selection of Spanish Irises. 
These are amongst the most beautiful of all the members ol the 
family, and they are probably the most widely grow^n and appreciated, 
if we except the varieties of Iris Germanica. They flower about 
fifteen days in advance of the English sorts, and are quite as useful 
for cutting —indeed, many persons prefer them, as they are even 
more refined. 

Avalanche. Garibaldi. 

California. Gold Spur. 

Canary Bu^d. Jupiter. 

Catherina. Lady Blanche. 

CelestiaL Snowball. 

Chrysolora. Thunderbolt. 

Selections of Iris levigata. 
For many years this section was known in gardens under the name 
of Iris Kempferi, but the plants did not attain to the popularity that 
was anticipated. No doubt this is to be accounted for by the fact 
that the earlier efi'orts in their cultivation were not attended with 
unqualified success, as their requirements were imperfectly under- 



126 PICTORIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



stood. Now they are rapidly advancing in esteem, and rightly so, 
for where they will thrive they are of superb beauty. The flowers 
are frequently as much as 9 inches in diameter. They are usually- 
sold in named sets, the selection of the varieties resting with the 
bulb merchant, but those enumerated will be found excellent. 



Duplex, 
Blue Jay. 
Eclair. 
Gold Bound. 
Mahogany. 

Prince Camille de Rohan. 
Robert Oraig. 



Single, 

Apollo. 

Blue Bird. 

Exquisite. 

Helen von Siebold. 

Quakeress. 

Snowbound. 



Selections of Bearded Flag Irises. 



Aphylla. 
Bridesmaid. 
Donna Maria.. 
Gazelle. 

Madame Chereau. 

Panormitana. 

Sylphide. 

Amena. 
Calypso. 

Due de Nemours. 
Herald. 

Mrs. H. Darwin. 

Sylvie. 

Yirginie. 

Germanica, 
alba. 

atropurpurea. 
grisea. 
Kharput. 
major. 

Purple Elng. 
Sarpedon. 

Neglect a. 
Cordelia. 
Fairy Queen. 
Garrick. 

Selection of Bear 

aurea laucheana. 

cristata. 

hematophylla. 

Hartwegii. 

Japonica (fimbriata), 

Monnieri. 



Keglecta — continued. 
Hannibal. 
Prince Arthur. 
Shuiey Hibberd. 

Squalois. 
Cleopatra. 
Harrison Weir. 
Lord Gre5^ 
Madame Sontag. 
Mozart. 

Sii' Walter Scott. 

Fall id a. 
Celeste. 
Cypriana. 
Garibaldi. 
J unonia. 

Madame Pacquitte. 
Queen of May. 

Variegata. 
Chenedole. 
Darius. 
Innocence. 
Liabaud. 
Marjolin. 
Sans Souci. 



Flag Irises. 

Monspur. 
ochroleuca. 
ruthenica. 
Sibirica. 

spuria A. W. Tait 
spuria Notha. 



BELBGTIONS of IXIAS. 127 



Cbapter XXXVII -ixlas. 

Our southern friends have quite the best of it when Ixias, or 
African Corn Lilies, are the subjects to be cultivated. We raay 
all grow Ixias in pot=;, and charming plants they are for the 
greenhouse or conservatory, but it is to Cornwall and Devon we 
must go to see how well they can flourish out of doors when the 
climate is suitable. In less favoured districts a sheltered position 
and light soil may lead some reader to attempt Ixia culture, 
and therefore a few details may prove valuable. October is a 
good time to plant, and as these Cape bulbs are only half hardy 
they must be put 4 inches deep. In addition to deep planting, it 
will be necessary to give some protection, such as dry litter or 
leaves spread over the bed to a depth of several inches. In very 
severe weather a mat may be also used to further protect the 
bulbs from frosts and heavy rains. In the spring all this material 
must be removed, or the growth will be drawn and weak. 

Experience proves that the best way to ripen the bulbs is to lift 
them as soon as they have flowered, and lay them out, with a very 
little soil over them, where the warmth of the sun will reach 
them. Pot culture is the more popular, however, and as the 
treatment found successful is as nearly as possible the same as 
advised for Freesias, it need not be again detailed. I may state 
that, for once in a way, early planting out of doors is not 
advisable, because should there be mild weather during the early 
part of the winter growth will push up and fall a prey to the 
later frosts. 

Selection of Ixias. 

Golden Drop, golden yel- speciosa (crateroides), scar- 
low, maroon eye. let. 

Gracchus, yellow, ruby Titus, yellow, black eye. 

eye. viridiflora, green, very 

Hortense, blue and purple. distinct. 

Befulgens, yellow, brown Yulcan, rich crimson, 

eye. Wonder, rose -pink, double. 

Snowflake, white. 



CDapter XXXVlir — CacDenallas. 

The fact of the matter is that Lachenalias, or Cape Cowslips, are not 
taken seriously by the majority of amateur growers. So good 
tempered are these South African bulbs that they flower fairly well 
under even somewhat indifi'erent treatment. But we hear someone 
asks, "Why bother any further, if the plants are naturally so 



128 PIGTOBIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING, 



accommodating ] " The only answer is to point to sucli fine specimens 
as Mr. Allen grows at Gunton Park, Norwich, or those cultivated at 
the Glasnevin Botanic Gardens at Dublin. If you have hitherto seen 
nothing but mediocrity in Lachenalia culture, and are wishful to 
discover the possibilities of these charming flowers, then let us 
ask you as a personal favour to carefully follow out the course 
of procedure here briefly stated, and you will presently be anxious 
to shower blessings upon the advisers. 

First of all, let it be said that the Lachenalias have small bulbs ; 
their leaves are green, often spotted with purple ; their spikes are 
stout, rising from 6 inches to 1 foot in height, according to the 
cultural skill attained by the grower and the habit of the species 
or hybrid grown. Thus, penclula will not grow so high as Nelsoni 
or tricolor, and neither is likely to be as tall as viola cea. 

No plant objects to coddling more than the Lachenalia, but it 
must always be kept out of the reach of frost. Hence, although 
a cold frame could not be improved upon for the newly potted bulbs, 
they must be taken into the greenhouse as soon as growth 
commences, so that neither check nor harm comes to them. One 
frequent and almost irrevocable mistake is made by both 
professional and amateur cultivators ; they delay the potting of the 
bulbs too long. This is a mistake, because by the middle of 
August new roots have le^^un to form on bulbs wintered in the 
soil in which they were grown the previous year, while stock 
procured from the bulb dealer ought by this time to be in a position 
to make new roots. It is useless venting your wrath upon the 
bulb dealer, for he has no option but to send the goods as soon 
as possible after they are ordered, and if this is delayed until mid- 
autumn, when every other body is ordering, then there is likely to be 
still further delay, and meantime the bulbs are not improving. 
Order in July, so that potting may be commenced early in 
August. Remember that Lachenalias delight in plenty of fresh 
air, but detest draughts ; they love a little warmth, but abhor much 
fire heat; and though they must never suffer from drought while 
growing, neither must water be given them at any and every 
opportunity. Do not let your watering or thinking, as far as 
Lachenalias are concerned, be done by proxy. 

Do not imagine there are great difficulties to surmount in the 
culture of these Liliaceous plants ; it is rather a question of 
" stick-at-iveness." Try 5-inch pots, as they will be quite large 
enough in a general way ; provide ample drainage material, then fill 
up the pots with a mixture of loam, leaf soil, and dried cow 
manure, using 2 parts of the former to 1 part of each of the latter, 
and adding a good sprinkling of sand ; place half a dozen bulbs into 
each pot, make the soil firm around them, and leave them with their 
tops just i inch below the surface. 

When you have a good stock of bulbs, some should be potted in 
July and others at short intervals until the end of August, to permit 
of as great an extension of the flowering season as possible ; 



A SELECTION OF LACHENALIAS. 



129 



this desirable end may also be secured in some measure by'retarding 
some jDlants when the spikes appear. Give liquid cow manure twice a 
week from the time the spikes begin to elongate until the flowers 
commence to fade. By these means a display may be had from 
February to May. 

Directly the leaves commence to fade reduce the water supply, 
and when they are yellow stand the pots in a cold frame where 
all the sunshine possible will reach tbem, and so give the bulbs that 
roasting without which they wiJl not flower satisfactorily the 
following year. Wire baskets lined with moss and planted both at 
the top and sides offer a variation — and a very good one too — 
from pot culture. 

Selection of Lack en alias. 

Nelsoni, golden yellow. violacea, white, violetj 

pendula, purple, red, and and green. 

yellow. There are several beauti- 

tricolor, green, red, and ful hybrids and garden 

yellow. varieties, but the fore- 

going make a fine selec- 
tion. 



CDapter XXXIX— £<JUCOjum$« 

It is quite incomprehensible, but none the less true, that among 
fifty people who know a floral Snowdrop not more than ten will 
be found who grow the floral Snowflakes. Yet these Snowflakes, 
or Leucojums, are equally as beautiful as their earlier flowering and 
better known relatives the Snowdrops. We are free to confess to a 
deep regard for the Snowflakes, chiefly because their" beauties may 
be enjoyed without the accompaniment of the topcoat, thick gloves, 
and jack-boots so frequently necessary when we inspect our outdoor 
Snowdrop blossoms. Snowflake is a pretty name, and there need be 
no quarrel with its inventor, but Snowbell would have been more 
appropriate and not less poetic. 

Snowflakes show to greatest advantage when planted in the rock 
garden or among grass, but a few good clusters in the front of a 
flower border must not be forgotten. With the exception of hyemale, 
all the Leucojums are hardy, and hyemale only needs the protection 
of a hand-light or frame. Being a stronger grower than the others, 
estivum is the best for naturalisation in grass or woodland ; it 
also likes a somewhat retentive soil as compared with the sandy 
loam most suitable for the others, whether it be in the open or 
grown in pots. However grown, it is highly desirable the bulbs 
be^ procured early in the autumn and at once planted not less than 
1 inch or more than 2 inches deep. 

vernum, white, with a estivum, white. 

green spot at the tip hyemale, white, tender. 

of each outer segment. 

I 



130 PICTORIAL PEAOTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



Cbapter X£.-£iIiuiii$, 

Long, long. ago, the garden folk decided that "the Eose the qneen 
of flowers should be," but the}' forgot to find a title for the stately 
and beautiful Lilies. Granted the Eose is queen, we are in 
duty bound obliged to recognise her associate, the Lily, as the 
empress of the flowers. Fascinating flowers are the Lilies— the 
more so because they do not all exhibit their charms with equal 
freedom in every garden. The wealthy may excel with auuatum, the 
Golden Eayed Lily, and with Henryi, or even the somewhat 
fastidious Humboldti ; but the _ wealth of bloom, purity, and 
fragrance of candidum, the delightful Madonna Lily, may be 
denied them, though it may be abundantly granted to the farm 
labourer whose garden plot is on the same estate. 

It is sometimes very ditficult to give a reason why Liliums fail in 
soils and positions where they may ^ reasonably be expected to 
thrive. From a gardener's point of view there are three distinct 
classes of Lilies, excluding those that are only suitable for cultivation 
under glass, and it not infrequently happens that the likes and 
dislikes of the various species are misunderstood or left out of 
consideration by intending planters. This is a fruitful source of 
failure, as also is careless planting. According to the size of the bulb 
and the height of the species, the depth at which it is placed should 
range from 3 inches to 10 inches. Other important points to be 
observed at planting time are to put the bulb on a firm base and 
surround it w^ith sand. A firm base is necessary to preveiit the 
bulb from being " hung " when rain follows and the soil settles 
down. 

Not only the ciuestion of soil, but also that of height, must be 
duly taken into account before planting is begun. Much time, 
money, and patience are annually wasted in attempts to cultivate 
Lilies that might be saved by the exercise of a little forethought 
and care in the initial stages of w^ork. Liliums range in stature 
from the lowly forms of elegans and concolor, which often attain 
a height of only 6 inches, up to the 10 feet or 15 feet attained by 
the noble giganteum when it is w^ell established in a place that 
meets its requirements. 

Shelter from cold winds, as well as from scorching sunshine, is 
appreciated by Lilies ; but this must not be taken to mean that 
these handsome flowers grow well beneath the overhanging branches 
of trees. They do nothing of the kind ; but what they do love, or 
at least the stronger growers, is a home among thinly planted shrubs, 



HOW TO FOT LILimiS. 



131 



such as Elioclodeiidrons, where the needful shelter is afforded 
naturally in the spring time, and the bulbs and stem roots are 
protected from the hot summer sun. The mention of stem roots 
may here be taken advantage of to explain that many Liliums 
not only root out from the base of the bulb, as do Daffodils and the 
like, but also produce roots from the base of the ascending growth. 
This peculiarity at once suggests that an annual top dressing of 
leaf soil, or a light, rich compost, will materially assist the plants. 

Many of the best Lilies are magnificent pot plants, hence they 
have long been popular for window culture, for the adornment of 
the conservatory, and for the supply of Covent Garden and other 
distributing centres for choice pot plants and cut flowers. Un- 
questionably the best Lilies for pot culture are longifiorum, its 




FIG. 45.-HOW TO POT LILIUMS. 



variety Harrisii, both the red and white forms of speciosum (also 
well known as lancifolium), auratum, and Henry i. With the 
advent of cold storage chambers, and their installation by some of 
the leading nurserymen, it is now possible to have Lilies in flower 
over a very long period by starting retarded bulbs at intervals. 

For the accommodation of Lilies it is desirable, though not 
essential, that in relation to their diameter the pots should be 
deeper than is usual. This permits the grower to take full advantage 
of the stem roots in his endeavour to produce the best possible 
crop of flowers : Xature and art may well combine to secure this 
desirable end. Each pot must be provided with a perfect drainage 
system, and over the crocks it is a good plan to place a layer of the 
rougher portion of the compost : then add a layer of soil — consisting 
of 4 parts of loam to 1 of leaf soil, with a little sand — and on 
this place the bulb firmly, surrounding it with a handful of sand, 
and just covering the bulb with the compost. This will leave the 



132 PIGTOEIAL PBACTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



pot slightly more than half full, and allow sufficient space for a 
top dressing when the stems have made some considerable progress 
and are beginning to emit stem roots, as well as the usual ultimate 
space for water. 

Gladly would we omit any reference to diseases, but there are 
some ills to which even a Lily is heir. Indeed, there are two diseases 
that now and again attack Lilies, and it is better to be prepared 
for them than to lull one's self into a sense of false security. For 
the fungus that all too frequently spoils fine clumps of candidum 
the only remedy seems to be flowers of sulphur ; lift the diseased 
bulbs directly the stems lie down, and place them in small bags 
filled with the sulphur, leaving them so for several days before 
planting them in new^ positions. Disease number two is a fungus 
known to fungologists as Ehizopus necans, and to gardeners as the 
auratum disease. It affects imported bulbs of auratum and 
speciosum, and is probably induced by the rather rough treatment 
received from the time of harvest in the Far East to the time they 
reach the cultivator. Our leading mycologist, Mr. Massee, who 
takes a paternal interest in fungi of all sorts, and is rather inclined 
to think they should have a chance of existence instead of being 
continually warred against, has recommended that bulbs for export 
be given a twenty-minute bath in a 1 per cent, solution of salicylic 
acid. A light annual top dressing of kainit mixed with soil was 
also recommended by Mr. Massee at the Lily Conference held at 
Chiswick by the Eoyal Horticultural Society in 1901, as a remedy 
for Lily mildew and other fungus troubles. 



In this section are grouped together those Lilies that are the 
least fastidious, and will thrive in any good garden soil. 



Selections of Liliums. 

Selection of easily grown Lilies. 



candidum, white; Madonna 
Lily. 



Clialcedonicum, scarlet ; 
Heldreiclii is a fine form. 



speciosum, white, brown 
spots ; the finest forms 
are album novum, Ea^et- 
zeri, Melpomene, and 
rubrum. 



croceum, orange ; Orange 
Lily. 



elegans, scarlet ; many 
varieties, the best being 
Alice Wilson, auranti- 
acum, atrosanguineum, 
Batemani, and Orange 
Queen. 



testaceum, light yellow. 



tigrinum, scarlet, brown 
spots ; there is a good 
double form , and For- 
tunei and splendens are 



fine. 



longiflorum, white ; Harrisi 
and Takesima are good 
varieties. 



Hansoni, yellow. 



Heuryi, yellow, brown 
spots. 



concolor, orange yellow. 



umbellatum, red ; cloth 
of gold, aurantiacum, 
grandiflorum, and 
Sappho are all desirable. 



Dalhansoni, purple. 



M;irtagon, purple ; Tuik's 
Caj) Lily. 



INIarhan, orange red, 
brown spots. 



pomponium, red. 



SELECTIONS OF LILIUMS, 



133 



Selection of loam-loving Lilies. 
This set requires good, deep loam in which to do itself justice ; 
but if the loam available is very heavy, strongly inclining to clay, 
then leaf soil and sand may be used to lighten it. 



aura turn, white, golden 
yellow, purple spots ; 
platypliYlluni, rubro- 
yittatum, and Wattei 
are the finest forms of 
this golden -rayed Lily 
of Japan. 

Browni, white, shaded 
brown. 



giganteum, white ; noblest 

of Lilies. 
Huniboldti, yellow, purple 

spots ; Bloomerianum is 

a bright form, 
monadelphum. yellow, 
rubellum, deep Eose pink, 
j a23onicum (Kra.meri ) , 

rose. 



Selection of peat-loving Lilies, 
These all delight in a deep, moist peat, and if the soil is not 
naturally suitable peat must be added to secure a fair measure of 
success. 



Canadense, orange red, red 
spots ; numerous yarie- 
ties, flayum and rubrum 
being the best. 



pardalinum, orange scarlet, 
ciimson spots ; Bourgei, 
Californicum, and Mi- 
chauxi are yery hand- 
some. 

Burbanki, apricot, orange, 
superbum, orange, spotted 
crimson purple. 

Selection of tender Lilies. 
All the following are tender, requiring such protection as a green- 
house or a winter garden affords : 



Xepalense, yellow, shaded 

pui^ple. 
Neilgherrense, pale yellow. 
Philippinense, white. 



sulphureum, sulphur, yel- 
low, shaded brown. 
Wallichianum, white. 



CDapter X£l -IHontbrnias* 

It is the hybridist we have to thank for this group of graceful 
and beautiful autumn flowers. Not so very long ago they were 
non-existent, but when some far-sighted raiser took in hand the 
original hybrid between Crocosmia aurea and Tritonia Pottsii he 
obtained results that must have surpassed his most sanguine 
expectations. By his eftorts our gardens have been made the 
more delightful and our homes the brighter during xlugust and 
September because of the elegant branching spikes of brilliant 
flowers that are sold at so cheap a rate by florists of all grades. 

In this volume both parents of the race are included, as the 
habit and requirements of all are very similar. Montbretias are 



134 PIGTOBIAL PRAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



quite Lardy, but they are failures in some gardens, notably in those 
where the soil is very dry or where the winter rains do not pass away 
freely. Such failures would be obviated were beds of rich soil made 
up on a well drained site, and planting deferred until early sprirg. 
Six inches is a good depth to plant. Wherever climate and circum- 
stances admit planting is best done in the autumn ; a little Bracken, 
litter, or Heather laid on the bed keeps the bulbs perfectly safe, but 
will not be necessary in many gardens. The growth of Montbretias 
closely resembles that of a small Gladiolus, but the spikes are 
branched, reach a height of about 2 feet, and bear a profusion of 
neat and brilliant blooms over a long period. Nor must the pot 
culture of Montbretias be omitted, or a valuable conservatory plant 
will be lost. Grown in the same way as Ixias and similar subjects, 
but with five bulbs in each 6-inch pot, they provide a pleasing 
decoration at a very small cost. 

Selection of Montbretias. 



Brilliant, orange scarlet. 

crocosmiflora, scarlet, 
orange, and yellow. A 
hybrid between Orocos- 
mia aurea and Tritonia 
Pottsii. 

Drap d'Or, cbrome yellow, 
large. 

Etoile de Feu, vermilion, 
lemon centre, red out- 
side. 



Gerbe d'Or, golden yellow, 
splendid flowers. 

Germania, orange yellow. 

Pottsii, orange and scarlet ; 
strictly a Tritonia, and 
one of the parents of 
garden Montbretias. 

Rayon d'Or, rich yellow, 
marked brown. 

Soleil Couchant, golden 
yellow, dwarf. 

Solfaterre, bright yellow. 



CDapter XCll —n^uscaris. 

It is presumed that most readers have at some period of their 
lives seen a few acres of Bluebells growing together, and have 
thought that in its particular scheme of colour nothing could excel 
such a display. But that thought only proves a lack of acquaintance 
with some of the Muscaris, and notably with that exquisitely 
beautiful one so appropriately named conicum Heavenly Blue. This 
is so much the finest member of the genus that if only one can 
be grown this should be chosen. If you have not seen J acre 
of this charming hardy bulb in full bloom about the same time 
that Dafibdils are aglow, or a hedge bank smothered with its 
sturdy, clustering spikes of azure blooms, either of which you 
may see at Barrs', or a bed of some early flowering shrub 
car])eted with it, as at Kew, then you have missed one or more 
of the most delightful sights the "merry spring'' aff'ords. It is 
by no means an expensive subject, and when once established it 



MUSGAEIS AND NERINES. 135 

may be freely increased by the removal and transplantation of 
offsets in early autumn, wliich is the proper time for lifting and 
removal, when this is either necessary or desirable. 

^ Taken as a class, the Muscaris are not at all particular as to 
soil, though they appreciate a good sandy loam as well as most 
things. As regards position they are equally accommodating ; 
in addition to situations already indicated, they should find a place 
on the rockery, in the flower border, or among low grass. But 
lest anything that has been said may frighten some bulb loving 
brother, we hasten to add that if he cannot grow the Muscaris by 
the 4 acre then by all means grow them by the half hundred, and 
rather than not have any at all obtain half a dozen to start with, 
for it is perfectly certain that, like Oliver Twist he will, within 
a year, be asking for more. 

Lest any reader should be at all puzzled by the dissociation 
of popular names from scientific ones, let it be stated that the 
Grape Hyacinth is botryoides ; the Feather Hyacinth comosum 
monstrosum ; the Musk Hyacinth moschatum (but it is too shy in 
flowering to suit most folk), and the Starch Hyacinth racemosum. 

Selection of Muscaris. 
botryoides, blue. comosum, blue. There is 

conicum, deep blue. Several a rare white form of 
varieties, of which the one this ; monstrosum is a 
named Heavenly Blue is pretty and interesting 
by far the best variety, variety. 

racemosum, dark blue. 



Narcissi, see Daffodils. 

Cftapter XClIl -Serines* 

Although there is a general agreement that N'erines, including 
Guernsey Lilies, are easily grown, it is nevertheless a curious fact that 
while in some gardens they merely exist one may see splendidly 
flowered specimens in the front window of a neighbouring cottage. 
The secret of success lies in the water pot. Water Serines according 
to requirements when they are either flowering or producing and 
maturing their leaves, but directly the leaves turn yellow withhold 
water until flower spikes appear the following season. Nerines 
are all too frequently killed by mistaken kindness. Bat once the 
true principles underlying their successful culture are understood 
and acted upon, then all is plain sailing. Directly a good batch 
of Nerines has been grown, the self-satisfied grower sets himself up 
as an authority and with affected superiority wonders why in the 
world any one fails with " such easily grown plants." 

It is usual for^the bulb merchants to supply thoroughly matured 
Nerine bulbs early in the autumn, and as these will soon come 



136 PICTORIAL PR AC TIG AL BULB GROWING, 



into flower they must be potted as quickly as possible. Rich, 
sandy loam forms an ideal material in which to place the bulbs, 
but if the loam be heavy it may be lightened by the addition 
of some leaf soil, while if it be poor add some thoroughly decom- 
posed cow manure. Into 4-, 6-, 8-inch pots put one, two, or three 
bulbs respectively, remembering always that Serines do not like 
to be over-potted. In this connection it may be added that the 
larger pots are the best to use, as^ they permit the bulbs to 
remain longer undisturbed. Give little w^ater to newly potted 
bulbs until root and leaf grow^th are alike active. Briefly stated, 
Nerines are greenhouse plants, needing no water when leafless, but 
slightly warmer conditions and a fair supply of moisture while 
growing freely. Speaking broadly, the dry season " is from 
. Slay to August, and during that time the best place for the stock 
of bulbs is the sunniest and airiest shelf in the greenhouse. Two 
other points need mention : Weak liquid manure is beneficial to 
established plants developing flower spikes, and a top-dressing 
with some rich light soil should be given in the seasons when 
potting is not essential. 

SeJectlo)i of yerines. 

flexuosa, pink. undulata, rosy carmine. 

Fothergillii, vermilion Several beautiful hy- 

scarlet. brids and varieties 

Sarniensis, crimson scar- have been raised in 

let. This is the recent years by Mr. 

Guernsey Lily pro- H. J. Elwes, of Coles- 

per, and corusca is a bourne, but these are 

fine orange scarlet not all yet in com- 

variety. merce. 



Chapter X£lV — OmitDoflalums. 

In Ornithogalums we have a genus which, though numerically large, 
is not represented by a great number of species in gardens. Several 
are better suited to the wild garden than to the borders, while at 
least one, Arabicum, is in every respect worthy of inclusion in all 
collections of greenhouse plants. Others again, notably nutans, 
should be relegated to the w^oods, where they will increase and multiply 
enormously, and create a very striking effect. For the border the 
one that is most commonly know^n as the Star of Bethlehem — 
umbellatum — is the best, as its w^hite flowers are alw^ays admired ; 
it is also of considerable service for culture in pots. 

Selection of Orniiho gal urns. 

Arabicum, white, black greenhouse culture and 

ovary, very handsome, is tall growing, 

and deliciously per- lacteum, white, 

fumed ; this requires nutans, whitish green. 



BJNJINGULUS CULTURE. 



137 



Selection of Ornithogahms {continued). 



Pyrenaiciim, yellow and 
green. 

thyrsoiclesj yellow ; several 



varieties, all thriving in 
the greenhouse, 
umbellatiim, white ; the 
Star of Bethlehem. 



CDapter X£V— Ranunculuses. 

The Buttercup family has given us many fine garden plants, and 
among these there are several that have tuberous roots. These do 
well in the herbaceous border, but as a rule they are seen at their 
best when planted in moist situations. The species now referred to 
are aconitifolius, best known -by its double white form, popularly 
called Bachelor s Buttons ; amplexicaulis, white ; cortusefolius, 
yellow, makes a splendid greenhouse plant j Ficaria, yellow, and its 
double form ; Monspeliacus, yellow ; and parnassifolius, white. 

As bulbous, or more correctly tuberous, rooted subjects, the genus 
Eanunculus appeals to us most by reason of the variety and useful- 
ness of the florists' forms of Asiaticus. These are wonderfully free 
flowering, and under favourable conditions, hereinafter particularised, 
grow about 9 inches high and provide distinct colour effects. The 
florists divide them into four sections, namely, French, Scottish, 
Persian, and Turban varieties. The first are the most vigorous 
growers, but are not so refined nor do they come always so double 
as the Scottish and Persian sorts.. Turban Ranunculuses are 
hardier and hwe a better constitution than the two last named, 
and, though they have a tendency to sport, they are in many ways 
more useful than the others. 

An ideal soil for these gay old flowers is one composed of 2 parts 
of good loam and 1 part each of decayed cow manure, leaf soil, and 
sand j but if this ideal is not realisable there is no need to despair so 
long as a 2-feet depth of light, rich soil is available. The bed or plot 
must be dug some time before planting, to allow the soil to settle. 
October and February are variously stated as the correct time for 
putting in the c^ueer looking tubers, and both have staunch disciples. 
We prefer the second month of the year, because autumn planted 
tubers usually need protection and do not appear to give such 
superior results as to compensate for the additional trouble taken 
and risk incurred. At planting time, no matter which month is 
chosen, draw drills 6 inches apart on the selected site, and 2 inches 
deep; sprinkle some sand in the drills, and then put in the tubers, 
claws downward, 4 inches apart. Press them in firmly^ lust cover 
them with sand, and fill up the drills with light soil. Those who 
make a hobby of florists' Eanunculuses place an awning over the 



138 PIGTOBIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GBOWING. 



beds as soon as the flowers open, thereby preserving the blooms as 
long as possible. 

Selection of Ranunculuses. 



French Varieties. 
A-bd-el-Kader, brownish 
red. 

Attraction, carmine. 
Bessie M. Weimar, white, 

shaded rose. 
Emperor of China, yellow. 
Excellent, cannine, edged 

white. 
Fairy Queen, white. 
L'Etincelante, fiery red. 
Pink Beauty, pink, edged 

yellow. 
Pucelle Aimable, purple, 

on Avhite ground. 
Surprise, yellow and red. 

Persian Varieties. 
Bridesmaid, white. 
Commodore Napier, citron, 

edged pui^ple. 
Cramoisi a Coeur Vert, 

crimson scarlet, green 

centre. 

Count Orloff, yellow, 

edged rose. 
Fire King, scarlet. 
Jaune Supreme, yellow, 

black centre. 
King of the Netherlands, 

black. 



Mont Blanc, white, striped 
rose. 

Orange Brilliant, yellow, 
orange, and black. 

Queen Victoria, white, 
spotted carmine. 

Bose d'Hollande, carmine. 

Sii' William Penn, white, 
edged carmine. 
Turban Varieties. 

Black, deep crimson. 

Carmine, carmine. 

Hercules, white. 

Merveilleuse, orange yel- 
low. 

Romano, scarlet. 
Seraphique, citron yellow. 
Souci Dore, red brown. 
YU'idiflora, green, edged 
scarlet. 

Scotch Varieties. 
These are not often cata- 
logued under names, 
therefore it only need be 
stated that -the prettily 
spotted and edged varie- 
ties are sold in mixture ; 
if obtained from a re- 
liable source they will 
give every satisfaction. 



CDapter XCVI -Scillas, 

Though of lowly stature, the Scillas, or Squills, must be included 
among the most valuable of our early spring flowering bulbous 
plants. Not all, however, are so dwarf and neat as the popular 
Sibirica and bifolia ; neither are they all spring flowering, for 
Peruviana flowers in May, Lilio-hyacinthus is a summer bloomer, 
and autumnalis flowers as late as August. All the sorts named 
below are hardy, excepting Peruviana, which does not do itself 
justice unless placed in a very warm border or given frame 
X^rotection. 

There is no need to make elaborate preparations for the 
Scillas, as they are not at all fastidious about soil, but are soon 
at home in all but the very worst of rooting mediums. They 
appreciate soil that contains a good proportion of leaf mould, a 
point that is at once evident to those who have carefully noted 



A SELECTION OF SGILLAS, 



139 



the localities in which the common native Squill (the Bluebell of 
rthe Southerners) flourishes. Few more beautiful sights can be 
. seen in this or any other country than a Beech wood or a Hazel 

^ . copse carpeted for long distances with Bluebells during April or May. 

* Many of the Scillas are amenable to pot culture, and will 
thrive if treated in the same way as Snowdrops are when required 
for the adornment of the window, greenhouse, or conservatory. 
In the garden Squills should be planted freely, either in small 
beds by themselves, as an edging or carpeting to other spring 
bulbs, or as a groundwork to deciduous shrubs. 

Selection of Scillas. 

i 

f bifolia, blue ; several va- Hispaiiica,blue; also white, 

rieties, notably alba, rose, reddish, and striped 

rosea, Pink Beauty, and varieties. 
White Queen. Lilio-hyacinthus, blue and 

festalis, blue ; the Blue- purple. 

bell, of which there are Peruviana, lilac ; alba and 
white and rose coloured Hughii are respectively 

forms. white and red tinted. 

Sibiiica, blue. 



Cbapter XCVn — SnoiDdrops. 

The poems that have been written in praise of the Snowdrop all 
urge upon us its chaste purity and sweet refinement. It, however, 
needed not the poets' lays to tell us of its beauty, and of the 
never-failing hearty welcome which awaits it in the spring as an 
augury of the year's awakening. In wood, copse, dell, and hedge- 
row, in some parts of the country. Snowdrops grow in thousands, 
and the ground is literally clothed with the pure white, fragrant 
blooms. 

In the semi-shaded corner of the rural garden Snowdrops flourish 
splendidly, especially where the soil is of a fairly strong nature ; 
but in small gardens it cannot be said for the Snowdrop that it is 
an unqualified success, though in some it is apparently no trouble 
at all to establish. Occasionally, where the more graceful single 
Snowdrop will not grow, the double variety may be planted with 
a fair hope of satisfactory res alts. 

The several species of Galanthus should be much more 
extensively planted, as they are most beautiful in the spring and 
summer, and provide a feature in gardens that no other plants, 
bulbous or otherwise, can afford. Some of them resemble the 
common Snowdrops in all except size, while others have exquisite 
markings of soft yellow or yellowish green on the ground of 
snowy whiteness. With increase in size many plants deteriorate 
in refinement, but this is not the case with the large Snowdrops, 
which are equal in this respect to the smaller sorts. 



140 PICTORIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 

The Snowflakes, or, to speak quite correctly, the Leucojums, 
bear a close resemblance to the Snowdrops, from which, however, 
they are perfectly distinct, being larger in all their parts, and 
having rather less of the true Snowdrop's exquisite refinement. 
They will be found dealt with under Leucojums. 

Selection of Snou-drops, or Galanthus. 

Elwesii, white, varies iu and double. Some of 

size. The varieties Whit- the best are imperati, 

tallii and robustus are Octobrensis, flavescens, 

- beautiful. and Melvillei. 

nivalis, the common Snow- plicatus, white. The Cri- 

drop, of which there are mean Snowdrop is very 

several forms in addition handsome. 

to the ordinary single 

This is giving only the smallest selection, and there are, of 
course, many others of decided merit, both in species and hybrids, 
but those named will sufiice, except in gardens where a speciality 
is made of this family. 



Cbapter XCVill — Sparaxis, 

Once upon a time Sparaxis were quite popular, and there are signs 
of a returning favour. Half hardy, like their allies the Txias, these 
natives of South Africa require similar conditions to induce them 
to flower freely. They all make exquisite pot plants, and the little 
trouble necessary to ensure a bright display is amply repaid in 
April and May. With these, as with Ixias, some of the older 
gardeners prefer to wait until February before planting in the 
open, and this plan has much to recommend it, especially in the 
less favoured districts. Where pot culture is followed the bulbs 
are best potted in batches from September to December. 

Selection of Sparaxis. 

Fire King, scarlet and Queen Victoria, white, 

black. yellow, and black. 

Garibaldi, crimson and tricolor, orange and black, 

maroon. . Victor Emmanuel, red and 

grandiflora, purple and yellow, 
white. 



CDapter X£IX — Ciariaias. 

Sober truth compels us to state that while the Tiger Flowers 
are gorgeously beautiful they are not really hardy, and though they 
may be successfully cultivated in a cool greenhouse, or even in a 
cool frame, in a sunny position, the lovely flowers are so evanescent 



TBITELEIAS AND TRITONIAS, 



141 



that one cannot conscientiously recommend them as greenhouse 
subjects. Light sandy soil suits them whether they are grown in 
pots or w^ell drained, sunny borders. In some southern gardens 
a place may be found for them at the foot of a w^all, in a position 
like that advised for the Belladonna Lily. April is the month for 
planting, and 3 inches is a suflScient depth for the bulbs. Dry 
leaves make a suitable winter covering for Tigridias grown out 
of doors. 

Pavonia, orange, yellow, Pringlei, scarlet, orange, 
and crimson. Numeroas and crimson, 

varieties, ranging from violacea, rosy pui^ple, ten- 
white to deep yellow. der. 



Cbapter £ — Criteleias* 

Ranging from only 3 inches in aurea to If feet in laxa, these 
Liliaceous plants are eminently suitable for such narrow w^arm 
borders as are frequently to be found at the foot of a greenhouse 
wall. ^ The position must be a sunny one, and the soil light, if 
the highest success is to be obtained. This advice is all the 
more necessary because in w^et winters the bulbs are very liable 
to decay if the soil be heavy. Moreover, in a retentive soil the 
bulbs do not ripen properly after the leaves have died down, 
and consequently flowers are either absent or poor the following 
season, provided the plant survives at all. Lifting and planting 
must be done w^hen the bulbs are quite at rest ; the stronger 
growlers will naturally require a little more room than the dwarf 
ones, but in all cases a depth of 3 inches will be ample. 

aurea, yellow. uniflora, lilac, 

laxa, blue. 



Chapter £f — Crltonias* 

In this we have another genus of Cape bulbs, closely related 
both to the Ixias and Sparaxis on the one hand and to the 
Montbretias and Crocosmias on the other. Triton ias are less hardy 
than Ixias, and, except in the summer months, must have frame or 
greenhouse protection ; in every other respect the advice given for 
Ixias should be follow^ed. Mixed varieties, ^ as now^ supplied by 
the leading bulb dealers, will meet the requirements of most folk, 
but for those w^ho desire named sorts the following is a good 
selection : — 

Bella, blush. Eleonore, buff, 

crocata, orange. Laura, salmon, 

elegans, orange cerise. speciosa, orange scaiiet. 



142 PICTORIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



Chapter £ii — Cropeolums, 

Those great garden favourites the " NasturtVums " have, by reason 
of their easy culture, variety of colouring, and widespread 
popularity, pushed the' majority of perennial Tropeolums out of 
gardens. Several of the finest of these perennials have tuberous 
or thickened rootstocks, and therefore they are here brought 
under the broad category of "bulbs." Propagation is generally 
effected by division of the roots or by seeds sown in gentle heat 
in the spring; several may also be increased by cuttings. Taken 
as a class they favour a light sandy loam, but speciosum enjoys 
moister conditions of soil and atmosphere than the others, and as 
a consequence it grows with greater luxuriance and blooms with 
a greater freedom in Scotland than in any other part of the 
kingdom. It will succeed in the South, but as a rule it needs a 
lot of coaxing, as does many another beauty. Sometimes the 
grower tires of coaxing before the Flame Flower makes up its 
mind to " be good then follows a season of comparative neglect, 
and it may happen that, like a fickle w^oman, the plant sets out 
to wdn back the affection it once scorned. When this occurs the 
best thing to do is to do nothing, and if this lovely native of 
Chili takes possession of^ a favourite tree or shrub and throws 
over it a mantle of delicate greenery studded with jewels of 
scarlet, then accept the gift of the gods with thankfulness. 

On the other hand we have polyphyllum, also a Chilian plant, 
but with totally different tastes from speciosum. It loves the 
sunniest place in the garden, and if this also be the driest place 
so much the better, provided there is a fair depth of soil. The 
prostrate habit of this species makes it suitable for a rock garden 
or for the adornment of a sunny bank. 

Two of the selected species can only be regarded as half 
hardy — these are tricolorum and tuberosum, and in dealing with 
them it is a good plan to lift and store the roots away from 
frost each winter. Both these, as well as Jarrattii and 
pentaphyllum, pay for greenhouse culture. Rich sandy soil and 
large well-drained pots will meet their needs, but they must be 
provided with wires or a balloon trellis to climb upon. A bright 
position, a good supply of water while in full growth, and an 
absence of water during the resting season are points to be 
observed by the grower of tuberous-rooted greenhouse Tropeolums. 
Selection of Tropeolums, 

Jarrattii, orange scarlet speciosum, vermilion, 
and yellowish brown. tricolorum, scarlet, yellow 

pcntapiiyllum, greenish and black. 

purple and scarlet. tuberosum, red and yellow. 

polyphyllum,bright golden 
yellow. 



SELECTIONS OF DUTCH TULIJPS. 



143 



Chapter £ili— tuberoses. 

African Tuberoses are purchasable in early autumn ; they grow 
taller than the Anaerican variety, which is seldom ready for distribu- 
tion before December. In both cases the cultural requirements are 
similar. Five- or 6-inch pots suffice for one bulb. Crock the pots 
well, and pot firmly in a compost of .2 parts fibrous loam, 1 ^ part 
sifted decayed cow manure, and sand as needful. As it is highly 
desirable no water be given until growth commences, the soil 
must be fairly moist at potting time. Eemember the Tuberose is 
half hardy, and that, although it responds readily to forcing, strong 
heat is only needed to obtain early flowers. A cold frame or pit will 
afford sufficient protection for some time after potting, but frost must 
be excluded, and it is safer to house the plants during winter. 
Plunged where there is a bottom heat of from 60"^ to 70® Tuberoses 
are quickly brought into bloom, provided they are well rooted and 
have already started to grow. 

Double African, white, The Pearl, white, double, tuberosa, white, single, 
double, sweet scented, very fragrant, 3 feet. not nearly so much 
5 feet. grown as the double 

forms. 



Cbapter £IV— tulips. 

Countless thousands of the bright, attractive looking bulbs find their 
way into this country from the sandy lands of Holland, and we 
appreciate them. But we find pleasure in the fact that the bulb 
productions of the Green Isle have no superiors. 

Selections of Tulips. 

Selection of Single Dutch Tulips for 
Arms of Leyden, white. Empress of India, rich 



striped rose. 
Ai'tus, scarlet. 
Brutus, orange crimson. 
Canary Bird, yellow, 

early. 
*Chrysolora, yellow. 
* Cottage Maid, rose, 

shaded white. 
Couleur Cardinal,richred. 
Crimson King, scarlet 

crimson. 
*Duchesse de Parme, 

orange red, edged 

yellow. 
*Dussart, deep crimson. 



orange. 

Globe de Eigaud, dark 
slate and white. 

Grace Darling, orange 
scarlet. 

*J'oost van Yondel, crim- 
son rose, pencilled 
white. 

^Keizer's Ki'oon, scarlet 
and yellow ; most 
brilliant. 

La Eeine, white, tinged 
rose. 

Pink Perfection, pink. 
Pottebakker, scarlet. 
Potter, violet red. 



*Proserpine, rich rose, 

superb. 
Queen of the Violets, pale 
violet. 

Eosa Mundi, rose purple. 
*Eose Gris-de-Lin, rose 

and white. 
Eoyal Standard, white, 

pencilled rose. 
*Thomas Moore, orange. 
*Van der Neer, violet 

pm-ple. 
* Vermilion Brilliant, 

orange scarlet. 
Yellow Prince, fragrant, 

yellow. 
*White Swan, white. 



144 PICTORIAL FBAOTIGAL BULB GROWING, 



The varieties included in the foregoing list flower ahiiost simul- 
taneously, and a grower may select those which meet his recjuirements 
in regard to colour. The best tw^elve are marked with an asterisk. 

Double Du.tch Varieties. 
La Caudeiir. white. Tournesol, red and yellow 

Princess Alexandra, red, Tournesol. yellow. " 
margined yelloAT. Yellow Eo^e, vellow. 



Gloria SoKs, reddish 
brown, edged yellow. 

Imperator rubr or u m , 
crimson scarlet. 



Admiral Eeinier, pink, 

striped white. 
*Bride of Haarlem, white, 

feathered crimson. 
*Cramoisie Superbe, cerise 
^Defiance, crimson, 

striped gold. 
*Fabiola, purple rose, 

feathered white. 
*Goldfinch, pale yellow. 
Grand Duchess, pure 

white. 



d'Or, golden 



LiUps for Pots. 
*Hector, orange scarlet, 

edged yellow. 
^Joost van Yondel, white. 
King of the Yellows. 
Ivoh-i-Xoor, deep scarlet. 
*La Eiante, deep rose. 
La Belle Alliance, brilliant 

scarlet. 
La Tendresse, soft rose. 
* Le Matelas, white, 

flushed rose. 
L'Immaculee, pure white. 
*Maes, dazzling scarlet. 

In the case of the varieties mentioned as especially adapted for 
pots the best are designated by an asterisk. 

Tu.Iips for Forci/iQ. 
Duo van Thol, red and yellow. 
,, crimson. 

scarlet. 
,, white. 

yellow 

l^ariega ted-Iea ved Tulips. 
Lac van Ehyn, rose violet, 
edged white. 



* Ophir 
yellow. 

Pottebakker, white. 
Princess Helena, pure 
white. 

* Queen of the Xether- 
lands, rosy Avhite. 

Eose Aplatie, rose and 
white. 

Eouge Luisante, deep rose 
pink. 

Yan Berghem, rose pink. 



Yellow Prince, yellow. 
Yellow Eose, yellow. 



Feu del'Empire, scarlet. 
Purple Crown, crimson. 
Eex rubrorum, rosy crim- 
son. 

Darwin Tulips. 

These provide late flow^ers on very long stems, which have 
substantial value for cutting purpose.^, as well as for the adornment of 
the garden. If the bulbs are planted in clumps of about one dozen, 
they look magnificent in May. 

Clara Butt, soft salmon Mrs. Krelage, delicate 
rose. rose, broad, blush rose 

margin. 
Pride of Haarlem, salmon 

cerise, shaded scarlet. 
Queen of Brilliants, deep 
salmon rose. 



Early Dawn, rosy violet, 

tinged blush. 
Glow, vermilion cerise. 
Loveliness.warm rose joink 
Marguerite , exterior blush, 

interior rose pink. 



Eev. H. Ewbank, pale 

heliotrope. 
Salmon Kirig. salmon rose. 
Suzon, flesh rose, blue and 

Avliite centre. 
The SaltaUj maroon black. 



acuminata, red. 
Australis, yellow, suffused 
red. 

Bataliuii, lemon yellow. 



Selection of Tu.Iip Species. 
Billietiana, j^ellow. 
Clusiana, wliite and red, 

black base. 
Didieri, red, black blotch. 



elegans, red, yellow eye. 
Gesneriana, bright red. 
Greigii, brilliant orange 
scarlet ; inconstant. 



SELECTIONS OF FLORISTS' TULIPS. 145 



Selection of Tulip Species UontinuecV). 



Kaufmanniaua, white, 

yellow, and red. 
Kolpakowskiaua, yellow 

or scarlet. 
Leichtlini,piuk and white. 
Libanotica, purple. 



m a c r o s p e i 1 a , crimson, 

black blotch, 
oculus-solis, red, black 

blotch, yellow edge, 
primulina, yellow and red. 
retroflexa, yellow. 



saxatilis, purple and 
mauve. 

suaveoleus, red and yel- 
low. 

S3-lvestris, yellow, 
violacea, reddish mauve. 



Florists' Tulips, 

These constitute the aristocracy of the Tulip family. In the 
diflferent varieties we may find the most exquisitely delicate colours, 
as well as hues that rival the Parrot flowers in the gorgeousness 
of their beauty, and no matter to what extreme we go there is always 
the very essence of refinement enveloping the flower, ^^'hether the 
variety belongs to the Bizarre, the Byblemen, or the Eose section, it 
is sure to be of the same characteristically refined type. Let it not 
be thought that all are of equal merit, for such is by no means the 
case, but in the very choicest forms, such as are embodied in the 
subjoined lists, all the best points are in conspicuous prominence. 



Selections of Florists^ Tulips. 
Bizarres. 



Colbert, fine for the gar- 
den, but not for show. 

Dr. Hardy, seldom seen 
with feathering only. 

General Grant, splendid 
feathering. 

George Hay ward, fine for 
the garden, too heavy 
for show. 

J ames Wild. 

Lord Trederick Caven- 
dish, inclined to be 
heavy. 

Adonis, fine light flamed 

and feathered. 
Bessie, good when light, 

often heavy. 
Duchess of Sutherland, 

almost constant, finely 

feathered and flamed. 
Elizabeth Pegg, nice when 

feathered, often smudgy 
Triar Tuck, generally 

good. 



Lord Lilford, good when 
feathered, colour some- 
times runs. 

Lord Stanley, almost con- 
stant, generally finely 
feathered and flamed. 

Masterpiece, sometimes a 
good feathered flower, 
but generally smudgy ; 
a favourite with ex- 
hibitors. 



Sam Barlow, superb 
sometimes feathered, 
and at others feathered 
and flamed. 

Sir Josei^h Paxton, an old 
favourite, verj^ showy, 
and generally well 
marked. 

Sulphui', sometimes good, 
sometimes smudgy, fine 
for the garden, sweetly 
scented. 



Aglaia, large, good for 
the garden, often too 
heavy for show. 

Anastasia, good, often 
too heavy for show. 



JByhlemens. 

Mrs. Jackson, fine for 
the garden, not for 
exhibition. 

Mrs. Pickersgill, some- 
times good, base rather 
yellow, requires bleach- 
ing. 

Princess Eoyal (Queen of 
May), fine for the 
garden, too long for 
show. 

Fioses. 

Annie Macgregor, one of 
the best, generally good 
in both feathered and 
flamed forms. 



Proserpine, finely 

feathered. 
Talisman, fine when well 

broken. 
Trip to Stockport, good 

when light, often 

smudgy. 
Wedding Coat, almost 

constantly feathered, 

small, dwarf. 



Comte de Yergennes, 
usually feathered, and 
fairly constant, not of 
perfect form. 

Heroine, good feathered 
or flame4. 



146 PICTORIAL FRAG TIC AL BULB GROWIXG. 



Industry, occasionally well 
feathered.no use flamed. 

Kate Connor, good for the 
srarden, too pointed for 
show. 



Dr. Hardy, rich Bizarre, 

getting scarce. 
Annie Macgregor, rose 

cerise. 

Goldfinder, finest scarlet 

Bizarre. 
James Wild, good Bizarre. 
Industry, rich rose, not 

good form. 
Kate Connor, rose. 
Lord Derby, rose crimson, 

dazzling white base, fine 

for the garden, not for 

show. 



Hoses {ContliiHCrl). 

jMabel, fine both feathered 
and flamed. 

Modesty, good feathered, 
often smudgy. 

Mrs. Atkins, nicely feath- 
ered, fairly constant. 

Bradvrs. 
Lady Constance Gros- 

venor, lovely rose. 
Mabel, tine soft rose. 
Miss Foster, curious By- 

blemen. flushed choco- 
late and fawn. 
Miss Hardy, good Byble- 

men, lilac. 
Eose Hill, handsome 

crimson rose, getting 

scarce. 
Sam Barlow, splendid 

Bizarre. 



Mrs. Lee, good feathered, 

fairly constant. 
Sarah Headley, often 

finely feathered. 



Sir Josei^h Paxton. deep 

chocolate bro^^^l Bizan'e 
Sulphur, fineBizarre, very 

fragrant. 
Talisman, good Byble- 

men, lilac with silvery 

shade. 

AVilliam Lea_, rich black 

maroon Bizarre. 
Music, one of the best 

Byblemens, purple, fine 

form. 



Parrot or Dragon Tulips. 

The several varieties that come within the scope of this section 
are remarkable for the gorgeousiiess of their flowers, which are 
exceptionally large and of the most brilliant hues. They are late 
flowering, and are not usually at their best until the middle or the 
end of Stay. The only fault of any moment is that of having 
flowers too large for the strength of the stems, which renders it 
somewhat difficult for the full beauty of the blooms to be appreciated 
unless each one is accorded a small stake. 



Cafe Brun, yellow and Markgraaf, 5-ellow, scar- 
coffee, let, and green. 
Feu Brillant, scarlet. perfecta, striped red and 
lutea major, yellow. yellow. 



preciosa, 
gold. 



dark red and 



Selection of May flowering Tulips. 

Though all of these cannot bs embodied in the foregoing sections, 
they are so strikingly handsome that one can scarcely afford to 
exclude them from the garden. They produce a flower which has 
much of the character of the Darwin section ; indeed, one may 
assume that they are closely allied to each other. 

Billietiana, yellow, shaded Dainty Maid, white, Ulac Parisian Yellow, yellow. 

red. markings. — • 

Billietiana Sunset, bright Delia, carmine. 



red and yellow. 
Bouton d'Or, golden 

yellow. 
Bueno Ventura, orange, 

gold striped. 



Picotee, white, margined 
cerise. 

Gala Beauty, vermilion Royal AVhite, cream. 

and yellow. Summer Beauty, lavender 

Gesneriana, scarlet criin- rose, 
son (said to be the 
parent of the Florists' 
Tulips). 



VAEIOUS BULBS. 



147 



Dielytra spectabilis, — Hard}^, thriving best in warm, moist 
localities, the Dielytra is a fine border plant. It does splendidly 
in the Sister Isle and in Wales ; in other parts of the country 
it is equally valuable. For the decoration of the conservatory in 
early spring the Dielj^tra is invaluable, while for a fancy vase in 
the drawing-room it is not easily surpassed, either for grace or 
beauty, when w^ell grown. Strong crowns lifted in autumn and 
put in pots of the smallest size that will accommodate them can 
be easily brought into flower, and as from 50^ to 55^ is all the 
heat needed or advised this is essentially a i)lant for the amateur 
to grow. Put the cro^vns in a compost of loam, peat, and leaf 
soil, and stand them in a cold frame until they are wanted for 
gentle forcing. Division of the crov\^ns in spring is the best and 
easiest method of increasing stock. 

Galtonia candicans. — This is a very handsome bulbous 
plant, whose tall spikes of creamy white bell-shaped flowers are 
well-nigh indispensable in the border in August. Procure bulbs 
and plant them 8 or 9 inches deep in any ordinary garden soil, 
avoiding the use of fresh manure where possible, and when it 
must be employed keeping it from actually touching the roots. 
Olisets or seeds, the latter sown in gentle heat, form ready means 
of increase. This plant is commonly grown under the name of 
Hyacinthus candicans. 

Lilies of the Valley.— Cold storage has worked many wonders, 
and by its application to Lily of the Valley we are able to have 
- the beautiful fragrant bells all the year round. From June to 
January, and even longer, the nurseryman will supply retarded 
crowns, and by simply potting or boxing these, and placing them in 
a temperature of 50"^ to 55°, excellent spikes are produced in from 
three to four weeks. Moist atmosphere and total darkness until the 
spikes are well up are other essentials to good results. But the 
whole matter is delightfully simple. Unretarded crow^ns continue 
the supply, but these are more exacting, and need from 80° to 
90^ of heat to bring them along satisfactorily. Following these 
come the clumps imported from Holland or Germany, and they 
also require plenty of heat and moisture. Out of doors Lily 
of the Valley is too often left severely alone. The position of the 
selected plot may be right enough, but subsequent attention is 
frequently conspicuous by its abi^ence. A partially shaded spot 
and deeply worked soil, to which plenty of decayed manure and leaf 
mould is added, will meet all requirements. Plant single crowns in 
February or ]\[arch, placing them G inches apart. Apply a good top- 
dressing of decayed manure and leaf mould each autumn, and lift 
and replant the bed every fourth or fifth year. 



148 PICTOBIAL FRACTICAL BULB GROWIXG. 



Scarboroup^h Lily. — This is one of the most popular plants 
in cultivation for ^Yindows, and some of the finest specimens are 
to be seen in the cottages of the country. It produces brilliant 
scarlet flowers in autumn and winter, and should be grown in 
the best of loam, not being disturbed at the roots oftener than 
is absolutely necessary. Deficiencies in the food supply con- 
sequent upon being grown in the same pots for a considerable 
period are made up for by' the use of liquid manure. Propagation 
is easily effected by division. The botanical name is Yallota 
purpurea. 

Solomon's Seal. — Pol^^gonatum multitiorum is a comtnon 
plant it is true, and one that is a wildiug in many parts of the 
country, but " common " in the sense of weediness it is not. For 
grace and elegance it is rarely surpassed, and it has a quiet beauty 
essentially its own. Lift some of the thick spreading root stocks 
in autumn, and pot them in any kind of light soil ; plunge the pots 
in ashes in a shaded spot and place over them a few inches of 
cocoanut fibre refuse, and they will be ready when winter comes to 
respond to gentle forcing. These are for the conservatory, but 
others may be placed thickly in boxes to provide a beautiful addition 
to the material available for filling the flower vases. In the open 
aff'ord the Solomon's Seal a partly shaded place, but it is not at 
all fussy, and grows" almost anywhere if the soil is moist. Divide 
the roots to increase stock, and plant in October or November, or 
else wait till March. 

Spirea japonica may be treated similarly to Dielyteas. 
^ Sternbergias. — At one time practically the only member of 
this genus to be found in gardens was that named lutea, but now 
macrantha is coming to the fore. Both are autumn flowering 
plants, producing rich yellow blooms that are identical with 
Crocuses in appearance. The best soil is a light, sandy loam 
containing lime rubble, and increase may be eftected by oftsets. 
A sunny situation should be chosen. 

Watsonias. — Plant the bulbs in a pit or frame having a 
sunny aspect, and provide them with a mixture of sandy loam 
and peat in the proportion of 2 parts of the former to 1 part of 
the latter. Here they can be given all the shelter they need, and may 
also be fully exposed, as weather permits, between the late spring 
frosts and the earliest cold snap of autumn. Some protection in the 
way of mats or dry Bracken will be advisable during severe frosts. 

Zephyranthes. — Only one species of Zephyr Flowers, Candida, 
is really hardy in this country, which is regrettable, as a goodly 
number are worthy of cultivation had we but room for them 
in our greenhouses. It blooms in the autumn, and when once 
established produces an abundance of charming Crocus-like flowers. 
Spring is the time to plant it, and the bulbs should be put -1 inches 
deep. The greenhouse Zephyranthes flower in spring, and are 
quite contented with the conditions provided for Ixias. 



149 



INDEX. 



A 

Achimenes, in baskets (Pictorial 
Practice), 43; culture of, 42 

Aconites, depth of planting (Pic- 
torial Practice), 9 ; culture of, 42 

Alliums, culture and selection of, 43 

Alstromerias, culture and selections, 
44, 45 . 

Amaryllises, cnltui^e and selection of, 
45-48; from seeds (Pictorial Prac- 
tice), 47 

Anemones, depth of planting (Pictorial 
Practice), 8; design for bed of 
{Illustrated), 11 ; border of Japanese 
(Illustrated), 13; culture and selec- 
tion of, 48, 49 

Anomatheca cruenta, 42 

Arum Lilies, culture and selection, 50 



B 

Babianas, deptb of planting (Pictorial 

Practice), 8; culture and selection 

of, 50, 51 
Beds and borders, bulbs in, 7-13 
Begonias, culture, 51-57; propagating 

by cuttings (Pictorial Practice), 53 ; 

Mabel Keevil ■{Illustrated), 54 ; Mi'S. 



Joseph Chamberlain {Illustrated), 55 ; 

selections of, 56* 
Belladonna Lilies, depth of planting 

(Pictorial Practice), 8; culture and 

selection of, 57 
Bluebells in the woodland {Illustrated), 

37 

Bowls, bulbs in {Illustrated), 30, 31 
Boxes, window, for bulbs (Pictorial 
Practice), 33 ; planting and manage- 
ment, 33-35 
Bulbs, culture in beds, 7-13 ; in 
borders, 7-13; depth of planting 
(Pictorial Practice), 8-9 ; in pots, 14- 
26 ; sizes of pots for, 15 ; plunging, 
16 ; feeding, 20 ; forcing, 22 ; liquid 
manure for, 22 ; after flowering, 25; 
staking {Illustrated), 26 ; in glasses, 
27-29 ; in vases, 30 ; in bowls {Illus- 
trated), 31 ; in window boxes {Illus- 
trated), 32-35 ; in the w^oodland 
{Illustrated), 36-38; in grass, 39-41 





Caladiums, culture and selection of, 
58 ; how to propagate (Pictorial 
Practice), 59 

Calochorti, culture and selection of, 
60, 61 ; splendens {Illustrated), 60 



150 



PICTORIAL PRAQTICAL BULB GROWING. 



Cnnnas, culture and selection of, 61, 62; 

Austria [Illustrated), 63 
Chionodoxas, culture and selection of, 

64- 

CoY-hicums, culture and selection oF, 
65 ; autumniile [Illudrated), 64 

Composts, preparation of, 14 

Crinums, culture and selection of, 65 
66 

Crocus, depth of planting- {Illustrated). 

8 ; culture and selection of, 66, 67 
Crown Ttnperials {Illustrated), 105 
CyclaTiiens, culture and selection of , 
"^67, 68 



D 

Daffodils {see also Xarcissi), classifica- 
tion and selection, 69-85; how to 
divide {Illustrated), 69; bulbs of 
various sorts (Pictorial Practice). 12; 
depths of planting (Pictorial Prac- 
tice), 73, 74 ; rare and expensive, 84 ; 
abundant and cheap, 84 ; f jr rock 
gardens, 85 

Dahlias, culture and selections of, 86- 

• 100 ; Eva (Illustrated), 87; Mrs. Castle 
(Illustrated), 88 ; Isbnd Queen (II- 
lusf rated), 91 ; propagating by 
division (Pictorial Practice), 93 ; 
potting and planting (Pictorial 
Practice), 94 ; grafting (Pictorial 
Practice), 91 ; enemies of, 100 

Dielytra spectabilis, 147 

Dog's Tooth Violets (see Erythro- 
niums) 

E 

Erytbroninms, culture and selection of. 
101 

Euchariscs, culture and selection of, 
101, 102 



F 

Freesias, culture and selection of, 102- 
104 ; aurea (Illustrated), 103 

Fritillarias, culture and selection of, 
104, 105 



G 

Galanthus (see Sno vdropsj 

CTaltonia candicans, 147 

Gladioli, depth of planting (Pictorial 
Practice), 9 ; culture and selections 
of, 106-113; Gandavensis variety 
(Illustrated), 108; Col villei The Bride 
(Illustrated), 110; shading and pro- 
tecting (Illustrated), 111 ; lifting 
and increasing (Pictorial Practice), 
112 ; planting young (Pictorial 
Practice), 113 

Glasses, bulbs in, 27, 28 

Gloxinias, culture and selection of, 
114, 115 ; collection of choice (Illus- 
trated), 116 

Grass, bulbs in, 39-41 



H 

Hemerocallises, culture and Sf 'lection 
of, 117 

Hepaticas, culture and selection of, 
117 

Hyacinths, depth of planting (Pictorial 
Practice), 9 ; Daisies and Primroses, 
a bed of (Illustrated), 1 1 ; how to pot 
(Pictorial Practice), 17; Moreno 
(Illustrated), 21 ; how to sake 
{Illustrated), 26 ; Roman in a Bovril 
bottle (Illustrated), 29 ; a bowl of 
(Illustrated), 3\; scle.-tions of, 118- 
121 ; La Grandesse (Illustrated), 
119 



INDEX, 



151 



i 

Irises, depth of planting German (Pic- 
torial Pr..ctice), 8 ; depth of planting 
English (Pictorial Practice), 8 ; 
depth of planting Spanish (Pictorial 
Practice), 8 ; selections of, 121-126 ; 
Iberica {illustrated), 122 ; Sjfarana 
magnifica {Illustrated), 124 

Ixias, culture and selection of, 127 



L 

Lachenalias, culture and selection of, 
127-129 

Leucojums, culture and selection of, 
129 

Lilies, Belladonna [see Belladonna 

Lilies) 
Lilies the Valley, 147 
Lilium^, depth of planting (Pictorial 

Practice), 9 ; culture and selections 

of, 130-133; how to ^oi {Illustrated)^ 

131 



M 

Alontbretias, culture and selection of, 
133, 134 

Muscaris, culture and selection of, 134, 
135 



N 

Narcissi {see also Daffodils), depth of 
planting (Pictorial Practice), 8 ; how 
to pot (Pictoiial Practice), 19 ; Alma 
{Illustratea), 76 ; Cygnet [Illustrated), 
11; Strongbow (Illustrated), 79; 
poeticus ornatus (Illustrated), 93 

Kerines, culture and selection of, 
135 



O 

Ornithogalums, culture and selection 
of, 136, 137 



P 

Pots, bulbs in, 14-26 



R 

Ranunculuses, depth of planting (Pic- 
torial Practice), 9 ; culture and 
selections of, 137, 138 

Richardia Africana, culture of, 50 



& 

Scarborough Lilies, 148 
Scillas, culture and selection of, 138, 
139 

Snowdrops, depth of planting (Pictorial 
Practice), 9 ; culture and selection 
of, 139, 140 

Soil for bulbs, 14 

Solomon's Seal, 148 

Sparaxis, culture and selection of, 140 

Spirea Japonica, 148 

Sternbergias, 148 



T 

Tigridias, culture and selection of, 
140, 141 

Triteleias, culture and selection of, 
l4l 

Tritonias, culture and selection of, 141 
Tropeolum, culture and selection of, 
142 



152 PICTOBIAL PBAGTIGAL BULB GROWING. 



Tuberoses, culture and selection of, 
143 

Tulips, depth of planting (Pictorial 
Practice), 8 ; good pot of (Zr^^^^r^i^^^?), 
23; selections of, 143-146 



Yallota purpurea, 148 
Vases, bulbs in, 30 



W 

Watsonias, 148 

Window boxes {see Boxes, window) 
Woodland, bulbs in the {Illustraied), 
36-38 



Zephyranthes, 148 



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